1991 John Deere 316 Won't start using the Key Ignition switch Help Needed here
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Hello Guy's
They forecasted a cold front rolling through here that was supposed to be here last night, so I pushed on to get the steering Pedastal screen's Painted. They were rusted badly with deep pitting so after I sanded them down I filled the pit's with body filler and sprayed them with three coat's of john deere green. I also painted the battery box with Blitz black. I want to get that portion back together on this build so I can run it out side while I work over the rest of the body panels. Here is how it turned out. Regards, Kurt
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They forecasted a cold front rolling through here that was supposed to be here last night, so I pushed on to get the steering Pedastal screen's Painted. They were rusted badly with deep pitting so after I sanded them down I filled the pit's with body filler and sprayed them with three coat's of john deere green. I also painted the battery box with Blitz black. I want to get that portion back together on this build so I can run it out side while I work over the rest of the body panels. Here is how it turned out. Regards, Kurt
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Hello Guy's
I went out and checked on the painted Part's Yesterday Morning. They are set up enough to touch, but not enough to place them back on the Tractor without disturbing the fresh paint on them. I removed all of the Masking Tape and put the Ignition switch and parking brake knob back in place. I happened to look down and there was a small Puddle of Hydraulic fluid directly under the H-1 Valve. Prior to painting the rolling Chassis we had a slight hydraulic leak and my son in law found the T-fitting line lose to goes to the front quick attach hydro Port so he tightened it. I felt that this had been our pesky Hydraulic leak. I slid under the Tractor and started looking for where the fresh fluid leak was coming from. I found one of the lines had a slight rupture in it close to the H-1 Valve that run's from the bottom Port of the Valve to the top left hand side of the charge pump.
When I Placed the engine back in the other day, after I Painted inside the engine compartment I used a screw driver through the front drive shaft coupler to Turn the engine over so that I could Tighten all of the fly wheel bolt's. This mist have Triggered this slightly ruptured rubber hydraulic hose to start leaking again so, I removed the rubber hydraulic hose and it showed to be slightly ruptured very close to the end where the connector is on the line, where it screw's into the H-1 Valve. At this point I surmise the Original Owner had to hit something High to disturb those Hydraulic lines as they are not dry rotted and I have not heard of any other's having leaking issues with their's or heard of them replacing the lines. John Deere want's $42.00 for this 6"-8" Hydraulic hose, so we will be getting it made up at a local Hydraulic hose Place around the corner from me. I want all leak's repaired before we are done with this build and get it into paint. Today I will be picking up the 1/4" sight glass rubber hose to replace the original one with as it does not look well. It is back down into the 20's here so this build will sit for a day or two until it warm's up again. This Saturday my son in law and I will get the Hydraulic Line that we need and pick up his new seat repair cushion Kit that is coming into our local John Deere dealership that I ordered earlier this week. Regards, Kurt
I went out and checked on the painted Part's Yesterday Morning. They are set up enough to touch, but not enough to place them back on the Tractor without disturbing the fresh paint on them. I removed all of the Masking Tape and put the Ignition switch and parking brake knob back in place. I happened to look down and there was a small Puddle of Hydraulic fluid directly under the H-1 Valve. Prior to painting the rolling Chassis we had a slight hydraulic leak and my son in law found the T-fitting line lose to goes to the front quick attach hydro Port so he tightened it. I felt that this had been our pesky Hydraulic leak. I slid under the Tractor and started looking for where the fresh fluid leak was coming from. I found one of the lines had a slight rupture in it close to the H-1 Valve that run's from the bottom Port of the Valve to the top left hand side of the charge pump.
When I Placed the engine back in the other day, after I Painted inside the engine compartment I used a screw driver through the front drive shaft coupler to Turn the engine over so that I could Tighten all of the fly wheel bolt's. This mist have Triggered this slightly ruptured rubber hydraulic hose to start leaking again so, I removed the rubber hydraulic hose and it showed to be slightly ruptured very close to the end where the connector is on the line, where it screw's into the H-1 Valve. At this point I surmise the Original Owner had to hit something High to disturb those Hydraulic lines as they are not dry rotted and I have not heard of any other's having leaking issues with their's or heard of them replacing the lines. John Deere want's $42.00 for this 6"-8" Hydraulic hose, so we will be getting it made up at a local Hydraulic hose Place around the corner from me. I want all leak's repaired before we are done with this build and get it into paint. Today I will be picking up the 1/4" sight glass rubber hose to replace the original one with as it does not look well. It is back down into the 20's here so this build will sit for a day or two until it warm's up again. This Saturday my son in law and I will get the Hydraulic Line that we need and pick up his new seat repair cushion Kit that is coming into our local John Deere dealership that I ordered earlier this week. Regards, Kurt
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Hello Guy's
I decided to do some road running this AM so I took the Hydraulic line to the hydraulic shop and they made me a new line for $35.00 a Little better than John Deere's price of $42.00 Plus Tax Plus it would have to have been ordered and the line I got is a Higher PSI rating than what came off the transmission. While I was there I got Three Feet of 1/4 rubber fuel hose to replace the sight glass tubing hose. By the time I got home it had warmed up some so I Placed the hydraulic line, replaced the sight glass tubing, and Put the pedastal screen's back on the tractor as well as put all of the other stuff Back that had to be unbolted to get the steering Column screens off for paint.I finished up by Placing the battery and Battery hold down clamp as shown. I put a new Hydro filter on and filled the Transmission with Red Transmission fluid. It is still about a Half quart low we will top it off later when my son in law join's me to start the rest of the body Panel's on Saturday. And I did Spray some Muffler black Paint on it's Onan Muffler and will add more coat's as it dries fully. I have all of the mechanical work completed now, so all we need to do is the body work and paint the body Panel's of which I feel they should all be done later on in this coming week. By Next weekend this tractor should be completed and Ready to mow Grass Regards, Kurt
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I decided to do some road running this AM so I took the Hydraulic line to the hydraulic shop and they made me a new line for $35.00 a Little better than John Deere's price of $42.00 Plus Tax Plus it would have to have been ordered and the line I got is a Higher PSI rating than what came off the transmission. While I was there I got Three Feet of 1/4 rubber fuel hose to replace the sight glass tubing hose. By the time I got home it had warmed up some so I Placed the hydraulic line, replaced the sight glass tubing, and Put the pedastal screen's back on the tractor as well as put all of the other stuff Back that had to be unbolted to get the steering Column screens off for paint.I finished up by Placing the battery and Battery hold down clamp as shown. I put a new Hydro filter on and filled the Transmission with Red Transmission fluid. It is still about a Half quart low we will top it off later when my son in law join's me to start the rest of the body Panel's on Saturday. And I did Spray some Muffler black Paint on it's Onan Muffler and will add more coat's as it dries fully. I have all of the mechanical work completed now, so all we need to do is the body work and paint the body Panel's of which I feel they should all be done later on in this coming week. By Next weekend this tractor should be completed and Ready to mow Grass Regards, Kurt
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Hello John
It was a Huge Relief to get this build mechanically right. There was a Lot of things going on with it as Both Charge Valved were seeping, and we had Two other Hydraulic leaks. One was a Loose line at the T-fitting that supplies the front quick attach Hydro Port's and the other one I fixed yesterday that was a slight rupture in the line that run's from the front of the charge pump to the bottom of the H-1 Valve. I Hate anything that leak's I guess that is one reason I never owned a Harley Davidson Motorcycle. L.O.L. This Tractor has come around and responded nicely to our TLC and servicing of it. The Hydro charge pump had a Mobil-1 filter on it that I have no idea if it was right or not for the Tractor, so Yesterday after I replaced it's rear sight glass rubber line I put a new John Deere Hydro filter in place. The Hydraulic system was down 2-1/2 Quart's of fluid it still could use a half quart of fluid to top it off in the sight glass we will put that in when my son in law Return's to work with me on it Saturday.
It's a Lucky thing that the Previous Owner did not burn up the Hydro Pump running it that Low on fluid, Oddly enough it's Hydro Pump was not making any Noise even though it was less than half full in the entire hydraulic system & with the sight glass as bad as it looked he could not tell how much fluid was in it anyways. It's sight glass bracket was beat up and mashed together Badly where it Pushed the sight glass above the bracket that it is supposed to sit in & The rubber gas line 1/4" hose was swelled up and ready to Burst from age. This Poor Tractor has had a real rough life before we Rescued it but it won't once we are done with it, we both take Good care of our equipment. We are in the home stretch now all we have left to do is the body and Paint work to the engine side Panel's, Grill Hood & support Bracket, floor Pan and the Mowing deck. I am Pushing to get this all done by next weekend the Grass is all ready getting Green here so it will not be long before he really need's this Tractor to use on his law, and I certainly have other project's that I want to get to soon. Regards, Kurt
It was a Huge Relief to get this build mechanically right. There was a Lot of things going on with it as Both Charge Valved were seeping, and we had Two other Hydraulic leaks. One was a Loose line at the T-fitting that supplies the front quick attach Hydro Port's and the other one I fixed yesterday that was a slight rupture in the line that run's from the front of the charge pump to the bottom of the H-1 Valve. I Hate anything that leak's I guess that is one reason I never owned a Harley Davidson Motorcycle. L.O.L. This Tractor has come around and responded nicely to our TLC and servicing of it. The Hydro charge pump had a Mobil-1 filter on it that I have no idea if it was right or not for the Tractor, so Yesterday after I replaced it's rear sight glass rubber line I put a new John Deere Hydro filter in place. The Hydraulic system was down 2-1/2 Quart's of fluid it still could use a half quart of fluid to top it off in the sight glass we will put that in when my son in law Return's to work with me on it Saturday.
It's a Lucky thing that the Previous Owner did not burn up the Hydro Pump running it that Low on fluid, Oddly enough it's Hydro Pump was not making any Noise even though it was less than half full in the entire hydraulic system & with the sight glass as bad as it looked he could not tell how much fluid was in it anyways. It's sight glass bracket was beat up and mashed together Badly where it Pushed the sight glass above the bracket that it is supposed to sit in & The rubber gas line 1/4" hose was swelled up and ready to Burst from age. This Poor Tractor has had a real rough life before we Rescued it but it won't once we are done with it, we both take Good care of our equipment. We are in the home stretch now all we have left to do is the body and Paint work to the engine side Panel's, Grill Hood & support Bracket, floor Pan and the Mowing deck. I am Pushing to get this all done by next weekend the Grass is all ready getting Green here so it will not be long before he really need's this Tractor to use on his law, and I certainly have other project's that I want to get to soon. Regards, Kurt
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Looking good, Kurt!
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Hello Jay & Other's
I appreciate your kind words here this Project is wearing me down and hopefully will be my last huge build like this. Yesterday I started sanding down the metal body Panels. The engine side cover shields are a Mass of Rust. I am forced to fix what we have as I can not find any other's Locally you Just do not see any 316's or 318's in the bone yards they are still running around here so body Panels are not to be found for them. The side engine shield's are so badly Pitted from Rust that I will have to coat them with Body filler to fill in all of the deep pit's before we can prime them. I have never worked with Powder coat before, it is Miserable to get off of the metal parts. It is either flaked off and rust has set in under neath it, or it is like sanding down a Rock as it knock's the heck out of any grit sandpaper that I have tried on it.
Today I will get some 40 Grit to attack it to see if that speed's up the process of getting it off. It does not even like to Feather edge good because it is so hard to sand down if I can't get a nice flow of feather edge on it where the Powder coat meet's the steel of the panel I may have to meet it with Body filler to make the panel's smooth enough for paint. I sure wish I had access to a sand blaster as I feel that is the best choice to remove it, but I do not have one so we will have to do it the hard way...My 1983 John Deere 318 did not have This Nasty Powder Coat paint finish on it and I am Glad as it sure is Not easy to work with when you are sanding on it. I can Tell you Now After dealing with it I would Never have anything Powder coated in my corral. I have done Body and paint work for the past 30 Year's and Never seen any Thing so down right Miserable to work with as this Powder coat finish has been.
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Regards, Kurt
I appreciate your kind words here this Project is wearing me down and hopefully will be my last huge build like this. Yesterday I started sanding down the metal body Panels. The engine side cover shields are a Mass of Rust. I am forced to fix what we have as I can not find any other's Locally you Just do not see any 316's or 318's in the bone yards they are still running around here so body Panels are not to be found for them. The side engine shield's are so badly Pitted from Rust that I will have to coat them with Body filler to fill in all of the deep pit's before we can prime them. I have never worked with Powder coat before, it is Miserable to get off of the metal parts. It is either flaked off and rust has set in under neath it, or it is like sanding down a Rock as it knock's the heck out of any grit sandpaper that I have tried on it.
Today I will get some 40 Grit to attack it to see if that speed's up the process of getting it off. It does not even like to Feather edge good because it is so hard to sand down if I can't get a nice flow of feather edge on it where the Powder coat meet's the steel of the panel I may have to meet it with Body filler to make the panel's smooth enough for paint. I sure wish I had access to a sand blaster as I feel that is the best choice to remove it, but I do not have one so we will have to do it the hard way...My 1983 John Deere 318 did not have This Nasty Powder Coat paint finish on it and I am Glad as it sure is Not easy to work with when you are sanding on it. I can Tell you Now After dealing with it I would Never have anything Powder coated in my corral. I have done Body and paint work for the past 30 Year's and Never seen any Thing so down right Miserable to work with as this Powder coat finish has been.
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Kurt the sandblasters do nothing much to powder coat either. The stuff is just so hard it's a real chore to remove it. Dave
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Hello Guy's
I Picked up some 40 Grit D-A Sand paper Yesterday and tried that. It did do a Lot better at sanding this Powder coat Paint but the stuff is rock hard and where it has flaked off it is deep rust Pit's underneath. I Managed to Get the side engine panel's in the last stage of sanding before paint as well as the grill. I had to smooth the pit's by spreading two coat's of body filler on the panels it worked well they should Look Good Painted. Now onto the floor pan it is rough and will need some metal patches in the step tread area. I can't figure for the life of me what would have rusted this metal so badly to have caused through rust holes ? Regards, Kurt
I Picked up some 40 Grit D-A Sand paper Yesterday and tried that. It did do a Lot better at sanding this Powder coat Paint but the stuff is rock hard and where it has flaked off it is deep rust Pit's underneath. I Managed to Get the side engine panel's in the last stage of sanding before paint as well as the grill. I had to smooth the pit's by spreading two coat's of body filler on the panels it worked well they should Look Good Painted. Now onto the floor pan it is rough and will need some metal patches in the step tread area. I can't figure for the life of me what would have rusted this metal so badly to have caused through rust holes ? Regards, Kurt
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Hello All
I finish with the side engine cover's and Grill this afternoon. I will be priming them next. The Powder coat where it flaked off left rust and pitting so I had to place a Skim coat of Body filler on them to fill the Pit's. The floor pan will be next and that is not in any better shape. Regards, Kurt
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I finish with the side engine cover's and Grill this afternoon. I will be priming them next. The Powder coat where it flaked off left rust and pitting so I had to place a Skim coat of Body filler on them to fill the Pit's. The floor pan will be next and that is not in any better shape. Regards, Kurt
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HI KURT, powder coat is fine for small pieces like brackets, rods, leavers, etc. but on sheet metal the best thing you can do is get rid of it! the slightest little nick will let in moisture and rust will begin to creep out under the skin. often there is no evidence of the damage being done such as a blister. then one day an entire sheet the size of your hand will fall off.
been fightin' this stuff for years, one flake at a time on my L100. keeping unit in the dry only slows down the process. the humidity in the air still drives it on. its like a person with cancer, no symptoms until its to late. that's how it did so much damage to the foot rest area.
looks like your bout to get her whooped however.
speaking of fender pans; I recently finished the body work on my 400 pan. I hope the 316s don't have as many stretch marks from the stamping process as the 400s. my 400 had more stretch marks than OCTO-MOM!! HA. just tryin' to end on a lighter note. I know how much that powder coat pees me off. good luck, J.Z.M.
oh yeah, its BRISTOL BABY!!!
been fightin' this stuff for years, one flake at a time on my L100. keeping unit in the dry only slows down the process. the humidity in the air still drives it on. its like a person with cancer, no symptoms until its to late. that's how it did so much damage to the foot rest area.
looks like your bout to get her whooped however.
speaking of fender pans; I recently finished the body work on my 400 pan. I hope the 316s don't have as many stretch marks from the stamping process as the 400s. my 400 had more stretch marks than OCTO-MOM!! HA. just tryin' to end on a lighter note. I know how much that powder coat pees me off. good luck, J.Z.M.
oh yeah, its BRISTOL BABY!!!
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Hello James
I spoke with my Old Hunting Buddy yesterday Morning he lives in Upper New York, and he got a Kick out of it that I am having to Deal with this Nasty Powder Coat. He has several Western Brand snow plow's that are Powder coated and said when they do rust the only way he has found to Get it off is to Burn it off with a Torch, as he said this Powder coat is like Porcelain. These panel's are far too thin to Torch it off, so I guess I will just have to grin and Bare it so to speak. Today I Plan on getting some sheet metal to patch the foot area from the bottom side of the pan. I want to keep the foot area recesses in place so that would be the easiest way to patch up that area. I can tell you after having to deal with it that I Sure would Never have anything Powder Coated myself I can't see any benefit from it as Failed paint does not destroy the metal as this stuff has. Regards, Kurt
I spoke with my Old Hunting Buddy yesterday Morning he lives in Upper New York, and he got a Kick out of it that I am having to Deal with this Nasty Powder Coat. He has several Western Brand snow plow's that are Powder coated and said when they do rust the only way he has found to Get it off is to Burn it off with a Torch, as he said this Powder coat is like Porcelain. These panel's are far too thin to Torch it off, so I guess I will just have to grin and Bare it so to speak. Today I Plan on getting some sheet metal to patch the foot area from the bottom side of the pan. I want to keep the foot area recesses in place so that would be the easiest way to patch up that area. I can tell you after having to deal with it that I Sure would Never have anything Powder Coated myself I can't see any benefit from it as Failed paint does not destroy the metal as this stuff has. Regards, Kurt
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Hello Guy's
Well after fighting with it for two days I am all done with this nasty Powder coat paint. I sanded down the entire floor pan with some 40 & 36 Grit D-A sand paper. I Patched the two rot hole's that were in the foot tread area, Repaired the left rear corner that was smashed in badly and tomorrow morning I will start Laying skim coat's of body Filler on it to fill The deep pit's and smooth out the surface of the metal. I am Very Glad to be done sanding on the Powder coat I can tell you that. Regards, Kurt
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Well after fighting with it for two days I am all done with this nasty Powder coat paint. I sanded down the entire floor pan with some 40 & 36 Grit D-A sand paper. I Patched the two rot hole's that were in the foot tread area, Repaired the left rear corner that was smashed in badly and tomorrow morning I will start Laying skim coat's of body Filler on it to fill The deep pit's and smooth out the surface of the metal. I am Very Glad to be done sanding on the Powder coat I can tell you that. Regards, Kurt
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Hello All
I am headed into the Third day of spreading body filler onto this Pitted floor pan. It is tedious work, but since I could not locate a replacement Fender pan for this tractor we had to go with what we had and fix it. It has filled all of the pit's nicely and I have about a Quarter of it left to finish placing body filler on it today. I have it sanded down with 40 Grit so when I am done with it I will hit it with some 80 Grit them prime it hit it with 120, prime it again and hit it a final time with 220 Grit sand paper before we paint it with John Deere Green paint. By Placing the body filler on it it has removed all of the machine stamp Puckering in the metal and made the pan more smooth around the edges. I hope to have it in finish prime by this evening I will load some more picture's of the progress later on today. Regards, Kurt
I am headed into the Third day of spreading body filler onto this Pitted floor pan. It is tedious work, but since I could not locate a replacement Fender pan for this tractor we had to go with what we had and fix it. It has filled all of the pit's nicely and I have about a Quarter of it left to finish placing body filler on it today. I have it sanded down with 40 Grit so when I am done with it I will hit it with some 80 Grit them prime it hit it with 120, prime it again and hit it a final time with 220 Grit sand paper before we paint it with John Deere Green paint. By Placing the body filler on it it has removed all of the machine stamp Puckering in the metal and made the pan more smooth around the edges. I hope to have it in finish prime by this evening I will load some more picture's of the progress later on today. Regards, Kurt
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Hello Guy's
I worked on the floor pan of the John Deere 316 Build all day yesterday and got it into primer last evening. I used just short of a Gallon of body filler on these metal Panels covering them and taking out the deep rust pits. There was a rot hole on the left hand side foot area the size of my fist that I metal patched and the other foot area had some through rust too that got metal patched as well.I have never seen this mucch corrosion on a floor pan before it had to be the Florida salt air that got to this metal so Badly. I sprayed Three coat's of high build primer on the floor pan late yesterday and sanded it down with 220 grit sand paper and gave it one last coat of primer before finishing up last night. It will need to be sanded down with some 320 then I can paint it. I should be painting the metal panel's John Deere Green today or tomorrow. We are finally in the home stretch of this build and it feel's good to have all of this work behind me. Here is how the floor Pan looked before I primed it yesterday afternoon. I think that the left rear damage that we had on this floor pan came out nice on it. Regards, Kurt
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I worked on the floor pan of the John Deere 316 Build all day yesterday and got it into primer last evening. I used just short of a Gallon of body filler on these metal Panels covering them and taking out the deep rust pits. There was a rot hole on the left hand side foot area the size of my fist that I metal patched and the other foot area had some through rust too that got metal patched as well.I have never seen this mucch corrosion on a floor pan before it had to be the Florida salt air that got to this metal so Badly. I sprayed Three coat's of high build primer on the floor pan late yesterday and sanded it down with 220 grit sand paper and gave it one last coat of primer before finishing up last night. It will need to be sanded down with some 320 then I can paint it. I should be painting the metal panel's John Deere Green today or tomorrow. We are finally in the home stretch of this build and it feel's good to have all of this work behind me. Here is how the floor Pan looked before I primed it yesterday afternoon. I think that the left rear damage that we had on this floor pan came out nice on it. Regards, Kurt
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Hello Guy's
I got the Floor pan Grill and engine side cover's painted today. They came out nice considering how rough that they were. I have the hood, Hood support bracket and mowing deck to go yet. Regards, Kurt
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I got the Floor pan Grill and engine side cover's painted today. They came out nice considering how rough that they were. I have the hood, Hood support bracket and mowing deck to go yet. Regards, Kurt
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