Jimmy, If you don't mind a short and explosive engine life, you can bore them out and put a block girdle on them like the pullers do. So far as I know there was only one situation where you could bore out a Kohler engine to a larger size. Some of the K241's were made from K301 castings. They would have K241 on the shroud but K301 on the block. Those could be bored out to the K301 diameter.
Posts by sashiery
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Matt Proden,
You have found the best place to get answers for your questions. You might do a search on HH100 engines and read some articles. Parts are getting scarce. A couple of the later Tecumseh engines have been put in place of the HH100 but I don't know which ones or if modifications were made to the tractors. Sears LGT's used a lot of Tecumseh engines, so maybe some parts are available from them.
There are lots of tractor rehab/refurbish/rebuild threads on this site. There's probably a step-by-step engine overhaul thread somewhere on here, too.
Steve
You have found the best place to get answers for your questions. You might do a search on HH100 engines and read some articles. Parts are getting scarce. A couple of the later Tecumseh engines have been put in place of the HH100 but I don't know which ones or if modifications were made to the tractors. Sears LGT's used a lot of Tecumseh engines, so maybe some parts are available from them.
There are lots of tractor rehab/refurbish/rebuild threads on this site. There's probably a step-by-step engine overhaul thread somewhere on here, too.
Steve
One of the guys posted some pictures of straightening an engine cover by prying with a chisel and tapping with a body hammer. Since I don't have that kind of finesse and I don't want to try my luck, and since I have six newly-painted engine covers to stretch I built a stretcher. It allows me better control of the process.
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It's a little crude but it worked on four engine covers. The picture shows an ugly panel I had left over.
It's a little crude but it worked on four engine covers. The picture shows an ugly panel I had left over.
Adam, there are two reasons for using WOT while mowing. The first is the engine oiling and cooling, and that is important with the one-cylinder splash-lube engines. The second reason is to keep the blade speed up so the debris will be thrown/blown out the discharge chute. A more aggressive blade might make up for some of that but momentum is important.
On an engine with pressurized lubrication it would not be as critical for the engine to be at WOT.
On an engine with pressurized lubrication it would not be as critical for the engine to be at WOT.
Ron Disch, that is the last year for the 110. They are a really good tractor. It's pretty easy to spend that much money and a lot more to put one in "new looking" condition.
Have you started it up (start with a cold engine) and driven it? How does it sound and feel? Any smoke or odd noises? Do the clutch and variator work smoothly?
Are there any attachments with that one? Front lift? Rear lift? Lift assist spring?
Mower deck - should be 39 or 47.
Front blade - should be a 43.
Tiller - should be a 31.
Thrower - should be a 37 or 37A.
Good luck!
Have you started it up (start with a cold engine) and driven it? How does it sound and feel? Any smoke or odd noises? Do the clutch and variator work smoothly?
Are there any attachments with that one? Front lift? Rear lift? Lift assist spring?
Mower deck - should be 39 or 47.
Front blade - should be a 43.
Tiller - should be a 31.
Thrower - should be a 37 or 37A.
Good luck!
Dennis Smith,
That's not a unique situation; it's the way they were built. Your 214 has a set of rubber viration-dampening mounts between the engine cradle and the frame. To make the starter work properly, as you found out, you need to have the large ground cable from the negative battery terminal on the engine like you have now. You also need a ground from the negative battery terminal to the frame but you can either use a two-lead battery cable or a separate ground from the engine to the frame.
That's not a unique situation; it's the way they were built. Your 214 has a set of rubber viration-dampening mounts between the engine cradle and the frame. To make the starter work properly, as you found out, you need to have the large ground cable from the negative battery terminal on the engine like you have now. You also need a ground from the negative battery terminal to the frame but you can either use a two-lead battery cable or a separate ground from the engine to the frame.
Brian,
If you have more than one tractor and more than one implement then you obviously have more options. Most of the time we have to use what we have to do the job that needs done. The guy who dies with the most toys is still dead.
We improvise some, like when we drag a front blade backwards to smooth out a rough grading job, and sometimes just have to accept a less-than-perfect result.
I just got a back blade last fall after thirteen years trying to push gravel uphill with a front blade. Snow wasn't so bad, but gravel was tough. The back blade makes moving gravel up hill a lot easier but I know it won't move as much snow as the front blade.
If you have more than one tractor and more than one implement then you obviously have more options. Most of the time we have to use what we have to do the job that needs done. The guy who dies with the most toys is still dead.
We improvise some, like when we drag a front blade backwards to smooth out a rough grading job, and sometimes just have to accept a less-than-perfect result.
I just got a back blade last fall after thirteen years trying to push gravel uphill with a front blade. Snow wasn't so bad, but gravel was tough. The back blade makes moving gravel up hill a lot easier but I know it won't move as much snow as the front blade.
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