[chuckv]

Jame,

The 332 is a highly desirable tractor in this size and configuration as it shares the same basic features of the chassis of the 318, so it has dual hydraulic spools, power steering, individual rear brakes, etc. The chassis is as easy to work on as any 318.

It does not need a reserve fuel valve as it has a fuel level indicator (and a water in fuel sensor...) for its Diesel fuel supply. The 332 has a water cooled 3 cylinder Yanmar diesel engine, so it is much more complex to rebuild, but the engine life is also very much longer in most cases. Like all small engines, what maintenance it received up til now is key to what condition and remaining life it will have. Overheating can be an issue, so look for signs of proper care of the belly screen and pre-screen just in front of the airflow through the radiator, and of course check the level and condition of the coolant in the radiator. Air flows from the pedestal area through the radiator and then across the engine and out the front grill and side cover screens. My experience is that the water cooled engine cools best with the side covers in place, but opinions vary on this subject among members here...

332 tractors command a premium over similar condition and age 318 tractors. The 322 version (gas engine) is somewhere in between the two. I have two of the 322 tractors but have never owned a 332 diesel...

Hope this is of some help.

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Jerry,


And she is dressed appropriately for the cold weather too...

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

JD Spencer,

Welcome to the WFM forum -- you could not have a better set of initials for this site!

If your 316 is an Onan powered one that has the later engine (P218G / 18 HP rather than the earlier B43E / 16 HP engine) AND the 318 is a later version (post 1986) that has the frame cutout for the starter solenoid mounted to the starter motor itself, then the engine from your 316 will drop right in. If the 318 is a 1986 or earlier and you have the later P series engine from your other tractor, you will have to notch the frame to clear the solenoid, and the drive shaft will need to be adapted to the flywheel as it is a different length between the two engine types. Conversely if your 316 has a B43E engine and the 318 is an early model, the engine will drop right in as well, but it will be two horsepower short of the original 318's rating. Finally, using the early 316 Onan engine in a later 318 would require a shorter drive shaft and the addition of a separate solenoid on the firewall. Hope this long post does not make it seem more complicated than it is -- these engine swaps are pretty straightforward.

I once bought a 318 with a good low hour replacement P218G engine and poor condition otherwise for $300, and at another time bought a 316 in fair shape but with a thrown rod for about the same amount. These were good finds, so you may need to give a bit more for the "rolling chassis without engine..." but you could start there.

Good luck,

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Jerry,

I thought at first glance that it might be a 317...some of these had a P218G Onan put in by dealers as a warranty replacement of the failed Kohler 17 twin. The side covers are not quite right though, and the exhaust is not on the same side as the original 317. The fender pan IS a match to the 317 however -- as is the hood with the light panel that does not wrap around to the sides like a 318. Maybe it is an owner re-power and the 318 style muffler was used so the side covers needed to also be transplanted. I see the screens at the rear facet of the side cover, just like a 318

I had a 317 with Onan about a year or more ago -- if you recall it was the one with all the pavement sealer on the bodywork and wheels/tires. Here is a profile shot of it with the larger tires and wheels that are now on my 322:

And here is a 'before' shot with the pavement sealer just about everywhere...

These can be really great little tractors, but the closed frame makes for a completely different set of rear attachments than those that fit your 322. All the front attachments will fit, and the deck just needs a different set of lift arms to work.

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Andrew,

Good call on the steering nuances -- definitely not a 317 frame under there and therefore most likely started life as a single cylinder closed frame 300 or 316K tractor.

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

JD,

Not a bad conversion at all to put a P218G in a 318 that previously had a B series Onan! Sorry my thorough discussion in my earlier post was any discouragement -- it was not meant to be anything other than informative...

Just notch the frame for the solenoid clearance or change the pan & starter from the old engine and use a firewall mounted solenoid. Since the drive shaft is a bit shorter in the older 318 tractor, you can either get a spacer -- or use the flywheel from the older B series engine which fits that shorter shaft. Many folks here have put the more up-to-date electronic ignition P series engine into the 1986 and earlier tractors, so a search here on the topic will yield a wealth of information.

If the price is right, you should get that 318. Just the upgrade to power steering is worth the effort alone and the dual spool hydraulics and turning brakes are valuable features as well.

Show us pictures when you get it...

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

James,

The suspension seat assembly is NLA from Deere, here is what comes up when you try to add one to the JDParts web site shopping cart:

The part AM105074 is no longer available. Contact your local John Deere dealer for other options.

They occasionally show up used, but are getting pretty hard to find, and tend to be expensive.

If you find two -- let me know about the other one

as I am looking for one as well.

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Has anyone successfully used/modified a zero turn mower suspension seat platform? They are expensive also, but should be more plentiful... Looks like they only have about one inch of total travel, but appear to be adjustable for operator weight so they don't "bottom out"

The other possible alternative is a bit unsightly in my way of thinking, but under $100 at Surplus Sales. It too would most likely need some modification to work on an open frame 300/400 series Deere garden tractor:

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Went on a little Deere hunting trip last night -- 3.5 hours round trip in the rain --and brought these home: 1965 110 manual lift round fender tractor, a 30 tiller and a fairly straight 42 blade with brass tag. The tractor serial number, 15563, places it as the 17th earliest 1965 on our registry.

It needs lots of TLC but seems to be complete except for the PTO cover. Certainly not as clean an example as either of the two recent finds by Charlie Proctor and Adam Vaught, but worth dragging home in the dark and the wet.

Adam -- this tractor came with the operator's manual OM-M40832 (SN 15001 to 40,000) and also the shop manual SM-2059. These manuals cover quite a bit of what you might need to know about the 110 from what I saw in my first browsing through them...

I have never had a vintage Deere that was not a hydro, so I am sure I will learn quite a bit when I get around to this one.

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Brandon,

Forgot to mention that the Deere hunting occurred at Deer Island, Oregon -- seems appropriate enough!

Tim, this is not a "downgrade" as I am not selling any of the 322 tractors...just filling in the herd a bit and trying something new to me.

Here is a 'style' question: Will the round fender look better towing the 80 cart or the 50 cart?? My brass tag 80 cart is going to need a bit of work on the tailgate before I can get it painted, but the 50 just needs paint and decals (and where do you get the proper decals, anyway?)

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Thanks Roger!

Guess the 80 will be the best match. Might have to lay low a while prior to even considering yet another series of tractor just to match the "orphan" 50 cart due to storage/time/wife approval factor issues.



Jim,

I picked up a set of 80 decals from HAPCO when I first got the cart and noted at that time that they do not have a similar set for the 50 carts...

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Thanks for all the ideas and great pictures on the topic of carts and wagons behind a round fender tractor!!

It might be a while before I get to working on my 110, and longer still until there's a "fashion show" here to decide between my 80 cart and my 50 cart. Both will be used I am sure.

Here are a couple more pictures of the 110 when I brought it home... Grill is good but the hood needs a little repair. What appears to be a very old re-paint is badly oxidized, so I may yet have to learn how to paint, even at my age!

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Dale,

It is an early 1965, and as noted at the bottom of this page I found it at a very small town on the Columbia River here in Oregon called interestingly enough Deer Island. It was one of those 'hidden items' on CL

Lowell -- That's a great picture of the carts circled up, but you need Chief in the middle there chasing his tail...

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Another impromptu Deere hunt!

Went to look at a 70 hood that was said to be in better shape than the one on my recently acquired 110 round fender tractor. It was in fact a better hood, and was on a 1973 model 70 that had been brought out to Washington State from Wisconsin many years back. This guy was the second owner and for a time he had the snow thrower on it before he moved out here -- the tractor still has the mounting frame for the thrower under the front of it, complete with the rear angle braces. The original engine was replaced by an 8 HP Tecumseh electric start engine, and the tires and seat are shot.

I ended bring back the whole thing as it was not much more than getting just the hood (and if my wife asks, you guys can swear to it...) along with a 34 inch mower that is in surprisingly good condition.

Maybe I should get this thing back in to running shape as other members here have told me this is the 'right size' Deere for my 50 cart...

Here are a few pictures:

It's getting harder to store/hide all the projects around here -- so I better get busy making these two new-to-me tractors earn their keep or disappear.

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Terry,

Welcome to the WFM forum! The 322 is a really great tractor (I have two myself and one of them is a 1992 model like yours...)

I put the number you listed in your post into the registry and get the following:
Model: 322
Typecode: M00322X
Serial Number: 111030
Model Year: 1992
Engine Model and Size: 3TG66UJ Yanmar 18HP
Lift Type: Hydraulic 2 Lever
Paint: Green
Manufactured Location: Horicon, WI

Enjoy!!

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Mark,

That defroster sucks up 13 amps of 12 volt power, or about 150% of what most of the tractors are designed to supply on a continuous basis.

If you use it for very short durations and have a group 22 or larger battery in near new condition (i.e. not a 322/332 with a U1 size...) then you may get away with it. JMHO...

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Adam V.,

HAPCO, one of our WFM site sponsors (see banner at top of page...) has the bowl gasket for $2.35

Look about 3/4 the way down this page:
http://www.hapcoparts.com/model110-1965.aspx


Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Will,

Nice find on the 400, and great price!

I have been using the Firefox browser lately and have had no issues with posting pictures here.

I noticed that your center picture of the 400 was 55 kB in size, even though its resolution is a smallish 192 x 144 pixels. The other two are only slightly smaller file sizes at 52 and 49 kB, with the same pixel dimensions. You can probably use your camera's PC resident software (disc that came with your camera) to adjust the quality of the compression to yield a larger sized image that still meets the posting requirements here regarding file size. Send me a PM if you want some more discussion on this...

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Neil and Jason,

The WOT engine speed of the 430 according to the TM1591 manual is 3400 RPM, but I suspect that the governor could be set up to 3600 if you wanted to drive the generator head at a 1:1 ratio. A pulley based speed up of only 1.06:1 is mechanically quite feasible, but finding just the right sheave size to work the existing PTO pulley on the front of the tractor to yield this exact ratio might be a challenge.

A 10 KW generator should need just under 16 HP input to its shaft, given the typical 85% mechanical to electrical conversion efficiency for the generator itself -- certainly well within the rating of the Yanmar engine on the 430. If you are considering the Northern Tool part number 165928, I know that one states an 18 HP minimum, but that is most likely due to the "power rating inflation" with modern air cooled engines compared to the honest ratings of the vintage Deere tractors...

The gear reduction PTO on the rear of the tractor would indeed be 2000 RPM output nominally, but the rear drives for the 30 tiller and the pulley driven MCS were running at engine speed just like the front PTO.

Neil, if you do construct the needed drive for the NT generator head (either front or rear PTO based...) please post some pictures.

Chuck

 

[chuckv]

Mike,

Thanks for the clarifying comments on the front PTO speeds for the 420 & 430 tractors -- I keep forgetting that both the TM1590 and the TM1591 have incorrect listings for the front PTO speeds, they show engine speed in each case. While this IS the speed that the electric PTO clutch/brake assembly turns, it is not the speed of the pulley that drives the deck shaft and the front attachment shaft.

Neil, there WAS a front 540 gear reduction PTO available for your tractor at one time, BM16278, but it is now listed as NLA at JDParts. You can see the breakdown in the PC1997 in sections 50-17 and 50-18. You will note that the driven gear is 72 teeth and the driving gear is 18 teeth, so the reduction is 4 to 1. This implies that the front PTO on the tractor itself is running at a nominal 2160 RPM... Quite consistent with the effective diameter of the double belt sheave which is 7.125 inches in diameter and the double pulley on the 430's front PTO clutch which is around 4.5 inches in effective diameter. Doing the math, you arrive back at he WOT engine shaft speed of 3450 RPM.

You may be able to find one of these front 540 PTO assemblies used, and using the classifieds here is probably your best shot at it. It certainly would be the cleanest way to hook up a generator head, but likely not the least expensive...

Chuck