Thanks for the replies on the snowblower problem. I will clean up the rust as good as I can and give these ideas a try, very much appreciated! I could have really used it today but instead just used the blade and it did a fine job.
I fall into the pre-newbie category since I don't have a John Deere, yet. I lean toward the yellow tractors, but I've had my eye on a 140 for about a year now--just haven't been able to make contact with the owner and get a deal made. Digger's recent acquisition has renewed my interest in the 140. Tonight I was in the 140's neighborhood dealing with a gut on yellow parts. That guy called the 140's owner and found out he has no interest in selling, but he might trade for a hydrostat Cub Cadet. I got a close look at the front of the 140, but the rest was covered with a tarp and had stuff stacked on it. The tractor has been sitting for at least a year. It ran when parked, but the engine was knocking. It does have a mower deck. The grille is missing. There's a crack in the front of the hood, but that's minor fiberglass work.
From what I've read, I understand that there were H1s and H3s, but I thought that only the H3s had front remotes and they had two sets. This tractor has one set of remotes on the right side and now holes where the left set would have been. Was there an H2, or did they only have one set of front remotes when equipped with a 3-point hitch? I've seen this tractor from the rear before and I'm pretty sure it didn't have a 3-point, but it may have been removed. The hydraulic levers were covered tonight, so I couldn't see how many there were. Any way of knowing if this tractor would have steering brakes...tarp covered the pedals, too.
For the right hydro cub, like a 1/49, it would be a good trade if you want a green one. Even an H1 can be a nice worker tractor. I would go with the integral (sleeve) style hitch over the cat 0 3pt. More implements avaible for the sleeve hitch and much more affordable price wise. If you can get the serial number off the tag, we can figure out the year of production. Knocking can be a rod issue, piston slap or as simple as the timing being out of spec or worn points. I have seen worn out points, causing the timing to be out of spec sound like a rod that is ready to let go. But once the engine got a new set of points/condenser it ran quiet as a mouse. Good Luck in your search for a 140. Mike
It discussed the brakes but not the front outlets.
I believe the H1 has one set of front ports, that work off of the same circuit as the deck lift would. The H3 split that into separate circuits for deck, front left, front right. Again, I think thats right, but maybe someone else can confirm.
Jim & Jerry, Not all 140s had front outlets. Here's a [URL="http://www.wfmachines.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=83063"> photo in my WFM gallery album showing one I saw at the Dumont Museum that didn't have any outlets.[/URL]
Hope this helps.
I am a parts man at Heartland Farm and Lawn in Sedalia, MO and frequent visitor to WFM. John Deere just informed us that they are no longer making the old style embossed John Deere hubcaps part #'s M42183 8" and M42184 12". I ordered a set myself and as far as I can tell they are the same as the originals just without the white paint around the raised JOHN DEERE lettering. As of today there are approximately 15 sets of rears and 100 sets of fronts.
I talked with my manager and he allowed me to give everyone on WFM a special price before they were all gone. A set of four (two 8" fronts and two 12" rears) for $150 shipped UPS ground to your door. Deere's list price is $193.98 without shipping.
Hi John Riggins,
Welcome to WFM. If you post your question about the 445 and loader on the Late Model Forum you will get some good responses on the tractor/loader combo. Right now the Founders and Moderators are working on allowing "what its worth" questions on the site.
When you get responses on the tractor combo you can click on the responders name and you will get info on them along with their email address. You can the contact them directly to get their opinions on pricing.
As for the 420, there should be plenty of members on this forum with lots of info on it.
Hello, i am new here... i just bought a '67 john deere 112... it does not run and im feeling a little overwhelmed on where to start... this is my first mower project and i have minimal small engine knowledge... this is a project for me and my son both to learn on... any way is there a modern replacement for the 10 hp tecumseh? or perhaps a place to buy new parts? also is there a place to view assembly drawings or wiring diagrams? any info would be helpful... i also purchased the rototiller, deck, and dozer blade... so info on those would also be helpful... thank you, matt
You have found the best place to get answers for your questions. You might do a search on HH100 engines and read some articles. Parts are getting scarce. A couple of the later Tecumseh engines have been put in place of the HH100 but I don't know which ones or if modifications were made to the tractors. Sears LGT's used a lot of Tecumseh engines, so maybe some parts are available from them.
There are lots of tractor rehab/refurbish/rebuild threads on this site. There's probably a step-by-step engine overhaul thread somewhere on here, too.
HI folks my son and I just registered here. We bought the John Deere 400 that didn't run as a FFA project for my son. Looking forward to finding good information for restoring this tractor. He has done 2 tractors prior to this, one was a Cub Cadet 1641 and the other was a JD 314.
Here are the pictures you requested. They are not great pictures, but I think the help explain. Obviously form the gouge in the middle of the rubber, there is a rough spot in the race that needs to be smoothed, but it did not have a negative impact on the performance. No clogs, even in one inch of snow, and I didn't have to drive fast, but I was at WOT.
If you need better pictures or have any questions, just ask. I hope that this helps.
With regard to the rubber flap upgrade on the blower, didn't we decide that it was best to place the flap on the trailing rather than the leading side of the auger paddle. That way if there was a stick, stone, etc., it would not force the flap back and wedge it between the cowling and the metal auger paddle? Just a small refinement, but it made sense to me when I read elsewhere on this site.
Good evening everyone, I had a long day plowing with my 72 110 but I ran into a problem and I can't seem to get it resolved. I came to the end of my push and thought that I had put it into reverse but it was 4th gear and when I let the clutch out the tractor stalled. Normally, this wouldn't be a problem but it is stuck in gear and I can't get it out. I tried rocking it, I jacked it up but no luck. I can get it started (in 4th) but it won't come out of gear. I tried so hard that I snapped the gear shift, so I guess I need a new one. Any ideas as to what went wrong. Thanks, Jim
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