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2010 Open Forum ARCHIVE

262K views 4K replies 644 participants last post by  Bweaver7734 
#1 ·
This thread contains all posts from the old site under 2010 Open Forum archive. This topic is now closed.
 
#1,927 ·
Hey AJ,
Thanks, do you mind bringing your brinly sleeve adapter next week? I think the grill might can be worked out. I am going to have some questions for you about the fuel system, I think I have a compromise is the fuel system. Its starting hard like its getting air. I think I might have a bad O ring.
 
#1,928 ·
Hello All
Been on the forum for a long time but this is my first post. I have a 400 with a onan p220g. It is blowing oil. I took the motor apart to find out one piston's ring end gap was .079 and other is .030. I look at the b series and it is around .020. However I found a manual for this that says it is suppose to be .080, which seems too much, and this is the one blowing the oil through the breather. Can anyone tell me the correct ring end gap for a p220g? Please help!!!! Thank
 
#1,935 ·
John,
there's a 48" tiller that might be relisted on eBay. The one from MD that the buyer didn't show up for. It looks in really good shape, low hours. I was going to buy it but it went, and in the meantime I picked up a well-used one from Roy Parker. Get it while the gettings good. They look like nice tillers. I haven't used mine yet as I'm waiting on a new PTO for my 430 in next month's budget.

Cheers,
Neil.
 
#1,937 ·
John,
Make sure that the 48" tiller that you get is the 2000 rpm tiller as that is the speed of the rear pto's for that tractor. You will also need the 3pt. hitch if you don't have it yet. I have a 48 tiller on my 332 and love it. Also, make sure that the pto shaft on the tiller is a male end and the right spline. I say that because I grabbed an almost new rear 3pt. mower for the tractor from craig's list and someone changed the drive shaft from the gearbox to a 540 rpm large female end. Luckily the shaft on my tiller is close enough to work for it.
 
#1,941 ·
Brian,

Here are some thoughts that I have shared here before:

A front blade works a bit like a chisel in woodworking -- it is pushed into the material and can get a good bite, but does not have a great deal of control on the smoothness or depth of the cut in some materials. You are counting on the shoes to give some depth reference as to amount of cut even when in float mode, and that's about it.

A rear scraper or box blade is pulled down into the material much like a draw-knife. It can move a lot of material a goodly distance if it is the box style, but again making a level and smooth surface is a bit difficult. Some members here have added some wheels behind the rear blades, and those are much improved for grading with this addition.

The center blade can be thought of as most similar to a wood plane -- it is between the front and rear axles of the tractor and can do a good job of leveling material to a smooth surface. Just don't try to move a lot of material at once and you should be fine.

Hope this helps, again it is just my of thinking about the various configurations. Real graders have very long wheel bases to further assist in achieving extremely level results, making the wood plane analogy even stronger.

Just my two cents...

Chuck
 
#1,943 ·
My score for the day!!!
It is a number 4 planter. Correct me if I am wrong, but I think this was supposed to have wooden handles at one time.

You can see in the mirror image where it is stamped, it says number 4 planter. The top is to rusty to make it out unless the shadow is just right.

This is a John Deere model, correct?
 
#1,947 ·
Hello again. I appreciate the advice I got before from ya'll on the double belts that engage the mower on my '67 112 round fender. But I have a problem and the dealer cant seem to help much. I need the belt that actually drives the deck. You would think it would be simple but so far its not. I reinstalled the restored deck and evidently the belt rubs the cover enough to shread the already fragile belt that needed replaced. The cover has a bow in it either from my welding a hole or whatever, or it just rubs. I'm OK with running without the cover I just need a belt, and like I said I've already been to the dealer and they gave me a waay to long belt. Took the old one and cut it (it was still barely one piece)measured right at 55-1/2" I do appreciate the help if somebody can point me in the right direction.

I tried to upload a pic of the finished deck, but cant seem to get it
 
#1,949 ·
Brian,

If you have more than one tractor and more than one implement then you obviously have more options. Most of the time we have to use what we have to do the job that needs done. The guy who dies with the most toys is still dead.

We improvise some, like when we drag a front blade backwards to smooth out a rough grading job, and sometimes just have to accept a less-than-perfect result.

I just got a back blade last fall after thirteen years trying to push gravel uphill with a front blade. Snow wasn't so bad, but gravel was tough. The back blade makes moving gravel up hill a lot easier but I know it won't move as much snow as the front blade.
 
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