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2010 Open Forum ARCHIVE

262K views 4K replies 644 participants last post by  Bweaver7734 
#1 ·
This thread contains all posts from the old site under 2010 Open Forum archive. This topic is now closed.
 
#2,058 ·
318 w/ P218G Governor Problem. Hello All, I pulled my engine out to replace the ignition module and now I can't remember exactly how the throttle linkage was attached. The engine runs but the throttle has limited travel and the governor isn't working correctly as the engine races when not under load. Does someone have a diagram showing the linkage and also the steps to adjust the governor?
Thank you, this is a great site
 
#2,059 ·
Armand,

Welcome to the WFM forum. You should get the technical manual for your tractor, TM1590, which has most of what you need to know to keep these fine Deere machines running. Internal engine specifics are covered in the engine manual which is the CTM2.

Here is an excerpt from the TM1590 that should get you started down the right path to proper linkage configuration.


Chuck
 
#2,060 ·
Got my 140's out today and washed them up from grass cutting and tilling. I also added a handle on my tiller tractor for hanging onto. I tend to look over my shoulder and have on occasion put my fingers under the fender...that is a no no with oversize tires. This is off a JD 2305 and it is nice and sturdy.
Scot
 
#2,062 ·
Hi all, apologize in advance for making my first post a long one but I guess that is how a guy gets started on here. I am totally new to John Deere and garden tractors in general so I've been reading and reading the archives the last couple weeks soaking in as much as I can. Hopefully I don't sound like a complete idiot.

Anyway, I recently acquired my deceased Grandpa's used, likely abused and pretty dirty 330 with 46" deck and a 49 snow blower. I say "abused" because Grandpa wasn't the best at maintaining his equipment. It appears in pretty rough condition but I have definitely seen worse on these forums. I would say this tractor has been sitting much of the last 5-7 years so I am hesitant to just jump on it and go at this point. I took it in to a local guy who works on mowers and he changed the oil, fuel filter, air filter, new belts, blades and a couple deck bearings. It had an issue with the belt jumping off and he thinks he got that fixed with some new guides. Lastly he replaced the linkage to the transmission. He mentioned several times that it has a lot of little things that are well worn and likely would need replacing.

Issues as I see it other than the cosmetic rust, broken hood mount and junk seat seem a little more serious to me. Looking closely at the radiator it appears that there is a lot of junk plugging the lower fins so I would assume that it should be boiled before I do any serious work with it. The differential is leaking fluid, not a lot but noticeable. Also, I see white smoke coming out of what I will call the "breather tube" that comes out of the top of the motor. I don't see any apparent oil or coolant leaks so I guess that is good. I haven't used it much at all so I don't know for sure if it is indeed burning oil... The motor does start right up and appears to be running strong as near as I can tell.

I am now about $475 into this tractor and wondering if I made the right decision to tackle such a project. Unfortunately I am by no means a skilled mechanic but do really like the tractor in general and would hate for it to just be parted out since it was my Grandpas. Eventually I would love to restore it like many of you have with yours but don't want to "take the plunge" if the mechanical issues are beyond repair. I understand that it is difficult to make a determination without seeing the tractor in person but would appreciate any advice from you folks that are much more knowledgeable than myself. Thanks again, Matt
 
#2,065 ·
Matt, welcome to WFM. I would definitely keep that 330, it is a great tractor and well worth putting money into even if it wasn't your grandfathers. Having a tractor that my grandfather owned is even better! If it is made from metal it can be fixed. Fortunately John Deere is excellent for parts so nearly everything you could need will be available. As far as the cost, it may be expensive but just go slow and ask alot of questions, the knowledge base on this site is incredible and willing to help you either keep that family heirloom in working condition or a show piece trailer queen! Keep that tractor! Adam
 
#2,066 ·
Matt K doesn't sound as bad as a lot here on the forum and for a little more $ and some elbow grease
(....yes just dig into it once you get a manual for it...they aren't that bad to tackle) and you will have
a great tractor with family history and a story or two I suppose.


For the WNY Plow Day folk I just got all my film scanned and posted the pictures.

Here is the link....
http://www.pbase.com/dirtweed/2010_brockport_plow_day&page=all

Posted it in the PD thread as well.

That was pretty neat to see what they guys can do up close. Can't wait til the next one when I bring my toy to play.


D
 
#2,069 ·
Hello. I have just purchased a hitch and plow for my 1965 110 from a WFM member and is currently in transit to NZ. The hitch is not complete missing the wire cable and the link piece that connects the cable to hitch. Can someone help with length of cable and link. I have the idler pulley for cable to ride over is there a diagram of how this all fits.
How much weight do I require on the rear. Do I also require weight on the front to off set the weight of the plow when lifted.
Thanks Steve
 
#2,070 ·
Dilemma here, I had my neighbors off color tractor over at my place and I think I blew the motor. Won't start and squeaks loudly from the engine. It has a Kohler 161 in it and I have a Kohler 181 that runs. My question is, are the block sizes the same? I will check the crank and such if I can find out about the blocks.

BTW, I was not driving it. MY partner the tractor killer was. She is 3 for 3 now. Sigh......
 
#2,072 ·
Dave, thanks for the pictures.

Scott, I have done that as well, but have more clearance on my mowing tractor. Those are some tough looking meats!

Mark, I believe they are the same, but there were different variances of each engine with different features.
 
#2,074 ·
Got some questions. On the 1971 140H1. I would like to change this over to an H3 model. Found most every thing I need from Bruce. My question is are the rear ends different. I have seen some H1 transmissions and some H3 but they look the same. other than the hydraulic system is there anything else that would have to be changed over.

My plan is to restore this and use it for garden work, snow removal and to mow our yard. I just want to make sure I have every thing or at least have a list of things I will need to do this.

I also am going to need books on this as well.

Thank you for your time.
 
#2,075 ·
Thank You Mike and Roger. I have to tell Mr Bill, my neighbor before I do any thing. Funny part is, she is known in the neighborhood as the mower killer.

Last year,
The Wiz, snapped a mower deck bearing housing, 2 mounting bolt tabs. Cast aluminum.

My 212, Blew the motor.

$140.00 new push mower, bent the engine crank shaft when it was 2 weeks old.

$20.00 used yard sale push mower, hit a rock and sheared a key.

All this in a 2 month period. I think she would be happier with painted asphalt than a lawn. That's how short she wants it. For better for worse, for richer for poorer. Sigh... going gray.
 
#2,076 ·
Dropped by my local dealer this morning to get a air filter and spark plug:

me - Need a spark plug and air filter for my 140
parts guy - what model?
me - It is a 72 - 140.
parts guy - is that a commercial mower?
me - No it is a 1972 John Deere 140 H3
parts guy - What size deck does it have?
me - What?
parts guy - I have never heard of that model before. Are you sure that is the model?
me - Yes - it is a 1972 140 H3 - made by John Deere.
parts guy to other parts guy - You ever hear of a 140H3?
other parts guy - just type 140 into the computer.

I nearly had a heart attack - Parts guy cant be more than 3 years younger then I am. Never heard of a 140!
 
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