Not sure on that model but it may have a drain plug that is coming loose or a seal leaking. Roger
210 and 112 Help. Fuel, electric and PTO
I was mowing yesterday and noticed a trail of oil, so I pulled onto the concrete but didn't notice any leaking,so I finished mowing with no troubles but when I put it up noticed the oil had come out of the HYDRO.Are there any obvious places to start looking?the reservoir was loose but I think that is just a loose hose clamp, is there a breather that may have gotten plugged? The tractor was still moving normal so I don't think its damaged. Thanks Dennis
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Took the fender pan off today the reservoir bottle had come loose from the top of HYDRO, I drained the fluid put a new connector hose and will get a new washer on the drain bolt.Do you need to use John Deere's Hydro fluid or is there something as good cheaper? Thanks Dennis
Dennis,
The TM1492 manual for your tractor lists the capacity of the transaxle as 7.2 pints -- that is not enough fluid to quibble about price in my book, so just use the Deere recommended fluid.
Most likely your transaxle will not need the full rated volume, as the old fluid is coating a lot of surfaces in the transmission presently...
Chuck
The TM1492 manual for your tractor lists the capacity of the transaxle as 7.2 pints -- that is not enough fluid to quibble about price in my book, so just use the Deere recommended fluid.
Most likely your transaxle will not need the full rated volume, as the old fluid is coating a lot of surfaces in the transmission presently...
Chuck
Dennis, I have an operators manual for s/n 110001 and up. It says SAE 10W-30 engine oil with API classifications of SE,CC, or CD is recommended in the LX176, LX178, and LX188 tractor.
Don't know if this fits your tractor, just a heads up to do some checking before you go to add fluid.
tommyhawk
Don't know if this fits your tractor, just a heads up to do some checking before you go to add fluid.
tommyhawk
Hello all,
First please forgive my mechanical inability- I am learning and loving every second of it.
I just got a new to me john deere 112- I think it is a '73- IT was sitting for about 10 years- a new battery and a little fiddling I got her to fire, the engine sounds great- So now I know she is worth working on- here are the issues:
The Key will crank the starter over she will fire up run a few second, die, then she won't turn over at all- like I lost all power in the system, not even a crank- I keep looking for loose wires, I can't pinpoint any, but sure enough I play with them all I while, turn the key and she fires, then dies and it starts all over again... Any Ideas? There is a purple wire not connected to any thing what is that for?
2nd, If I fill the fuel tank up Gas leaks out of the carburetor.. Any ideas why this is and what to do about it? My idea so far is that a check valve is bad in the fuel pump?
Last: I have a John Deere 210- it has 2 issues- She Runs great- but if she sits more than an hour she looses her prim and has to be started with carb cleaner- would a new fuel pump fix this? do you recommend the electric or cheap plastic ones- from my research it seem like the remade plastic ones work the best.
If I try to turn her PTO on the system shuts down- the pto is stuck solid, any ideas or places to look to figure out how to fix this?
I am really excited to try and get these machines back in a condition where I can use them daily- I would like to put one of the tillers on one and a mower on the other.
Do people often paint these machines? I like the new look, but I also like the old American workhorse look they have going for them now?
Thanks for all your help.
First please forgive my mechanical inability- I am learning and loving every second of it.
I just got a new to me john deere 112- I think it is a '73- IT was sitting for about 10 years- a new battery and a little fiddling I got her to fire, the engine sounds great- So now I know she is worth working on- here are the issues:
The Key will crank the starter over she will fire up run a few second, die, then she won't turn over at all- like I lost all power in the system, not even a crank- I keep looking for loose wires, I can't pinpoint any, but sure enough I play with them all I while, turn the key and she fires, then dies and it starts all over again... Any Ideas? There is a purple wire not connected to any thing what is that for?
2nd, If I fill the fuel tank up Gas leaks out of the carburetor.. Any ideas why this is and what to do about it? My idea so far is that a check valve is bad in the fuel pump?
Last: I have a John Deere 210- it has 2 issues- She Runs great- but if she sits more than an hour she looses her prim and has to be started with carb cleaner- would a new fuel pump fix this? do you recommend the electric or cheap plastic ones- from my research it seem like the remade plastic ones work the best.
If I try to turn her PTO on the system shuts down- the pto is stuck solid, any ideas or places to look to figure out how to fix this?
I am really excited to try and get these machines back in a condition where I can use them daily- I would like to put one of the tillers on one and a mower on the other.
Do people often paint these machines? I like the new look, but I also like the old American workhorse look they have going for them now?
Thanks for all your help.
Check this post.
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/262818.html#POST188911
The purple wire feeds the neutral start system of the tractor. If yours is cut, a previous owner might have bypassed the safety system.
Fuel flows from the tank to the carburetor and flow is controlled by the float in the carburetor. So check the float in the carburetor and clean it. It might also help it run better.
On the 210, I would check all the hoses for possible cracks, clamps that aren't tight. If they are good, the fuel pump gasket might be cracked allowing gas to flow backwards through it. I'll let others comment on replacement pumps.
Quote "the pto is stuck solid" By design the PTO will not move easily in the off position because of the built in safety which slows the PTO to stop the blade.
When turning on the PTO and the engine stops, the usual cause is one of the safety switches which is open. Either you are not sitting on the seat or one of the safety switches is not working.
I hope you have a wiring diagram.
Use the search function on this site and you will find more good information
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/335/262818.html#POST188911
The purple wire feeds the neutral start system of the tractor. If yours is cut, a previous owner might have bypassed the safety system.
Fuel flows from the tank to the carburetor and flow is controlled by the float in the carburetor. So check the float in the carburetor and clean it. It might also help it run better.
On the 210, I would check all the hoses for possible cracks, clamps that aren't tight. If they are good, the fuel pump gasket might be cracked allowing gas to flow backwards through it. I'll let others comment on replacement pumps.
Quote "the pto is stuck solid" By design the PTO will not move easily in the off position because of the built in safety which slows the PTO to stop the blade.
When turning on the PTO and the engine stops, the usual cause is one of the safety switches which is open. Either you are not sitting on the seat or one of the safety switches is not working.
I hope you have a wiring diagram.
Use the search function on this site and you will find more good information
Thank you for the info Douglas,
I just figured these machines where to old to have safty switches, I am way to new at this.
I will find a good wiring diagram and follow it as best I can- the wiring on the 112 looks great-but after sitting sense the orginal owner passed away at least 10 years ago- who knows- how it was or how it was modified
The float in the Carb looks good but I will double check I may have jammed something when I was inspecting it.
As far as the 210- It will keep on driving without any one on it- it seems to me like there are no Saftey switches in play on this one currently, though I would like to add them.
I replaced the hoses on all three of my tractors and cleaned the fuel tanks/changed the oil the day I got them, I have been inside the fuel pump, i got it to pump better but still won't stay primed.
I will keep searching the site as I always do.
I just figured these machines where to old to have safty switches, I am way to new at this.
I will find a good wiring diagram and follow it as best I can- the wiring on the 112 looks great-but after sitting sense the orginal owner passed away at least 10 years ago- who knows- how it was or how it was modified
The float in the Carb looks good but I will double check I may have jammed something when I was inspecting it.
As far as the 210- It will keep on driving without any one on it- it seems to me like there are no Saftey switches in play on this one currently, though I would like to add them.
I replaced the hoses on all three of my tractors and cleaned the fuel tanks/changed the oil the day I got them, I have been inside the fuel pump, i got it to pump better but still won't stay primed.
I will keep searching the site as I always do.
Hunter,
It is most likely the float valve that is your problem. There is a pin that runs through the hinge that is formed by metal bracket on the float and the top of the carburetor. Slide that pin out, and you can see the float valve. It may be dirty , deformed, or missing. They are pretty cheap to replace.
There should be a seat safety switch and a PTO safety switch. Sounds like one or more is missing or defective, or disconnected.
If you have the electric PTO, you need to use the wiring diagram for the latest model 200-series.
Good luck!
It is most likely the float valve that is your problem. There is a pin that runs through the hinge that is formed by metal bracket on the float and the top of the carburetor. Slide that pin out, and you can see the float valve. It may be dirty , deformed, or missing. They are pretty cheap to replace.
There should be a seat safety switch and a PTO safety switch. Sounds like one or more is missing or defective, or disconnected.
If you have the electric PTO, you need to use the wiring diagram for the latest model 200-series.
Good luck!
Thank you Stephen,
Next time I am able I will dig into both of them and get it all figured out. I just wanted to make sure I was heading in the right direction before putting to much into it.
Next time I am able I will dig into both of them and get it all figured out. I just wanted to make sure I was heading in the right direction before putting to much into it.
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
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