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210 variable speed

1202 Views 16 Replies 8 Participants Last post by  lionlamb
I am disappointed with the air cleaner on my JD 425. It takes me 3 – 3.5 hours to mow my yard and the air cleaner housing has cut grass and an incredible amount of dust in it by the time I am done mowing. My tractor has the filter minder on it and it is redlined by the time I finish mowing. I clean the filter and pre-filter every time before I mow. It just seems that there is a LOT of dust/debris getting into the air cleaner housing. My old MTD mower got an air filter/pre-filter replaced each season and it never looked as dirty as this filter does.

Is there supposed to be any sort of foam in the air filter housing in the area where the air intake hose connects that goes to the left side cover? Also, on my air cleaner housing base, there is an opening that would appear to draw air in directly from the engine compartment that is directly below where the hose from the side cover enters the air cleaner housing. Is there supposed to be any sort of foam filter in this area too?
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No, there isn't any foam in the air intake hose. Air flow goes through the screen of the left side panel, through the air intake hose, and into the engine air filter housing which should have an oil soaked foam band around a pleated paper air filter. After which air flows straight into the intake manifold.

fwiw, I need to clean the air filter on my 445 once a season. On the other hand, what I believe you are calling the pre-filter (i.e the screen leading to the radiator), could be cleaned about every 6 hours or so of mowing....worse, if during dandelion season.
The oiled foam band is what i am referring to as the pre-filter. I clean and re-oil it after each time I mow. I also blow air thru the air filter element (reverse of normal airflow). The radiator screen gets cleaned each mowing as well. Agree, during dandelion season, I may have to actually stop and clean the radiator screen while mowing.
I never had any issue like this on my old 425 and I also mowed for 3 hours in a dirty environment. Is the large 180 degree curved hose from the top of the cleaner down to the side shield attached? This hose is there to prefilter the air through the side shield screen.
Jay - just a thought here , some of the air filters paper elements are not designed for pre-oiled first stage foam dirt catchers. I know my kawasaki engine in my mid mount mower warns against oiling the pre-filter - says the oil will restrict the paper elements flow. Most new Kohler engines also don't want any oil in the pre-filter. It's all to do with the paper elements media micron sizing that is so small,that it will not tolerate the oil.

Just something to think about. I also have the kaw engine in my 445 , and do not oil the pre-filter. Right or wrong , it works for me. Dave
Jay, don't know if filter on 425 is same as one on my 455 or not but if it is ... there should be no open hole. Mine does have a rubber piece designed to let out water but not let in air. Sounds like this might be missing on yours. Also the end of the intake hose needs to be plugged into the hole on the top inside of the left side panel. The side panel screen acts as a prefilter as David Watson indicated.
I checked JDParts and it appears that I have all of the parts, hoses and filters it calls for on the 425/445. The 455 air cleaner diagram is completely different, similar to the one on my diesel utility tractor. I may try not oiling the foam pre-filter as that may make cleaning it after each cutting a little easier. Thanks for all of the input.
Jay - I would install a brand new pleated primary filter first , because the oil may have corrupted the old filter , and caused your main problem . There is no way to remove the oil from the paper element . Better to start from fresh to be sure , then try dry pre-filter . My 02,Dave
OK, I will give that a try.
If the concern is that oil on the pre-filter would clog the pores of the paper filter and restrict air flow, then it should be an easy check to see if this is an issue. Restricted airflow would make the fuel mixture burn richer, which would be visible as black carbon deposits on the spark plugs. This would be for carbureted engines like a 425, though I'm not sure what happens with an EFI engine (e.g. 445)..... whether the mass airflow sensor provides the info to compensate and adjust fuel mixture or not.

The conventional wisdom with oiling the pre-filter is that very fine particles get stuck by the oil in the cleanable pre-filter. I believe this is to extend the use of the non-cleanable more expensive pleated paper filter, rather than any concerns for preventing premature engine wear. If you find it necessary to clean the air filter really often, I would think you would want to rely more on the cleanable pre-filter rather than less.

Regarding the original problem, not sure what you're environment is, but perhaps mowing in less dusty conditions might help like in the morning (dew) or a day after it rains.
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I guess since this is a 2 cylinder, it is moving a lot more air thru the air filter than my old
B&S single, thus a lot more dust in a similar size filter element.

When I finished mowing yesterday, the pre-filter was really dusty but the filter minder was not showing much of a restriction.

The real solution is probably getting the grass to fill in so I don't kick up so much dust when mowing. :)
NOT trying to be a "Know It All" here - Just thinking this might be a good place to seg-way into the future of fuel injected lawn and garden engines .

The 445s' Kawasaki engine uses MAP(manifold absolute pressure),which is a speed / density system , to direct the fuel management . MAF system is not involved , and not present on this engine . The speed density system correlates the manifold pressure as "load" , and together with the engine speed reference input , directs the computers output to the "duration" signal (how many milli-seconds to hold the injector open) . This engine is "open loop" programmed , meaning that the fuel curve is preset in the computer and does not change , and therefore does not have an oxygen sensor feedback involved.

That being said.., The Mass Air Flow system (MAF) , is much more sophisticated , and actually measures the air flowing into the engines . Some use a "hot" wire to do this , and some are a damper valve that swings to calculate air flow . This system will most likely be seen only in cars [which will have either MAP or MAF] , or in some cases , can utilize both together (rare).

Kohler EFIs' use a "closed loop" system with a single wire (not heated) oxygen sensor input to trim the prom (programmable read only memory) chip in the fuel management ECU , and is more than likely MAP directed (not 100% sure), rather than the more expensive , and sensitively delicate - MAF system . For good reason .., we probably won't see MAF systems on lawn mower engines , as they are very delicate and probably would not stand up to the rigors of this industry - in general .

Welcome to the future everyone , where lawn mower engines will soon be as complex as the older car engines in the 80s' used to seem to us , but only until we learn what makes 'em tick . Some will grasp this new (old) 'tec stuff , and others will be at the mercy of others to figure it out (just as always) , but I have to know the whats'what when it comes to this stuff to feel comfortable .

Sorry for the long diatribe here on fuel injection .., just thought I'd share what I know personally , before the old carburater(sic) goes the way of the DO-DO bird , as it has in automobiles.

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Hey David, Thanks for taking the time to do a write up on the distinction. Continuing the digression... since I'm guessing Jay is going to grow more grass to help his issue ;-)

A while back, I was looking for a MAP sensor for my 445 and went through a bit of sticker shock at the JD prices (~$275 if I recall). Looking around e-bay I could find physically identical looking Denso MAP sensors for Honda and others in the $29 range. However, none that matched the exact Denso part number 100798-2910 (still have it written down from my search). While I can imagine how the output profile is intended to match my FD620D engine, I was not able to find any information that might give me some insight into finding a potential close match for 1/10th the price, or alternate supplier for the exact Denso part.

I have always appreciated the simple mechanical nature of carburetors, though in hind site, EFI seems like a much simpler system, despite it's reliance on multiple pricey sensors.

The only negative I have is that I regret being bound to what feels like high monopolistic prices on EFI components that 445 owners are subject to. I think one could spend upwards of $2k to replace all new EFI specific components that are unique to a 445. Some of the components are virtual black boxes that some will swap in a working component to determine if the old one is faulty. Without a return policy, it can be a really pricey diagnostic technique. I'm lucky to have multiple 445 engines to swap parts should I get into that situation. I wonder if X485 and X728 owners suffer the same sticker shock or whether there are alternate suppliers with shared EFI related components. The 445 EFI module is about the size of an iPhone, probably has 1000 times less processing power, a million times less memory, but costs 6 times as much. Too bad there isn't a 445 EFI app for an iPhone (yet) ;-)

Fortunately those components seem to typically outlast everything else and so are likely to be among the last to go.
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Dave - For that reason alone , I've got squirreled away one MAP sensor - and complete throttle body with injector/regulator for my 445 should the need ever arise . These I picked up dirt cheap on ebay .The Map sensor was left on the air filter box I got for like $29.oo , and the throttle body/injector/regulator was listed as a carberator(sic) for a 445 , and I got it for like $32.00. Ka-ching! I've seen used ECMs' go for north of $500 clams , so that is my next big score , hopefully. I'd hate to have to buy that thing from Deere. Jezz already , give a bro. a break !

Just bought a 318 the serial number sticker is in bad shape is there any other way of finding out what the serial number is

Gary 320-363-4892
Gary your 318 is considered a vintage garden tractor and should be in the Hydrostatic section of the Restoration and Repair Forum above this one. You will get more accurate answers to 318 questions there. To answer you question there is no way to find out the serial number of your tractor other than the sticker and or if you have the owners manual and or sales invoice. Getting a new sticker from JD is possible but is a long involved tedious process and you will need a dealer who is willing to help you get the sticker. The new sticker also will have to be applied by a representative from JD. The last fellow I know that did this said it took almost a year to get it done. Welcome to WFM. Roger
The clutch pedal seems to come up very slowly lately on my 210. It seems to take forever for it to reach full speed. I've had this tractor for ~14 years(2nd owner) and have adjusted the variable speed before. I have tried adjusting it multiple times lately and it doesn't seem to work right. Before I get ahead of myself, I thought I'd ask here. It looks to me like there is no adjustment to that spring attached under there to put more tension on the belt. I'm thinking/hoping that the belts need replacing(I'm quite sure they are original) and maybe that spring if it is not adjustable. Should this take care of my problem or do I need to focus my resources elsewhere?
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