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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I don't know if it is operating correctly or not but it seems as if it dosen't open far enough at WOT. It hardly moves from idle to WOT. It seems to run fine, no black smoke, and you can tell when the governor kicks in because the ignition seems to cut out every 4-5 seconds. is this normal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Roger. Is it normal though?
I assume it's the governor cutting the ign. to the engine because if I back the throttle off a little, it seems to quit. I loose RPM doing this however and this machine needs as much RPM as it can get to make any kind of power. It does NOT do it if I am mowing. If it's not the governor, then what could it be?
 

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Carl - Perhaps I can answer . The throttle plate you are looking at hardly ever goes past 1/4 opening when engine is running , even at full throttle . The Governor does that for you ,and is purely mechanical ; It in no way has anything to do with the ignition , although with the electronic fuel injection ,the TPS (throttle position sensor , MAP (manifold absolute pressure), Fuel injection module (computer) , can throw a fly in the ointment that most don't have to deal with . I have a 445 and been all through the workings of it . Sounds like you have an ignition High Tension coil , or the ignition pulser coil going bad , or just a bad connection to either (or) . The gov.will not be tied to your woes . Start thinking electrical/electronics , or possably fuel delivery issues , and pray that your fuel injection main module isn't the culprit . They are very very expensive compared to the ign. coils or pulser coil . I may be wrong , but I think there is only one pulser coil for the 445 , compared to two for the 425 .

Also the governor kicking in is probably a direct result of the ignition failing , or fuel delivery and engine speed faltering , not vise-versa .

Edit: Also - if it doesn't do anything weird while mowing - what are you talking about ?? That is when you are using the most power isn't it . Now I'm confused .

These connection issues , and file locking errors , are giving me fits!!

Dave
 

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Also Carl -

A leaking head gasket in a water cooled engine can cause an ignition sputter , that doesn't show up when engine is loaded at max. power , but will hit you when the engine is just trying to cruise . Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, so possibly an electrical issue (I REALLY, REALLY hate those), head gasket leak, but not a governor, correct? When I turn on the PTO, I have it at WOT and the engine goes down to about 1/2 power or so and comes back up to what I have considered normal. The RPMs @ WOT are less than when the PTO is off. To me, it seems like there is a lack of power while mowing. Maybe it's just the nature of the engine, I don't know. It doesn't smoke at all, blue or black, and everything else works fine. There is a small leak from somewhere on the transaxle, but I can't imagine that is related to the engine issue in any way.
 

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Engine rpms' on my 445 seem low also compared to a 455 and the 425 . Especially while mowing , I've thought about trying to bump them up a little , but my Tiny-Tach bit the dust , and will not do this (if even pos. on the Fuelie) without a tach .

Answer me these - How many hours ? Is the engine consuming any significant amounts of coolant ? Does it smoke sometimes (or even smell oil smoke) , - especially when the gov. opens up when going through thick grass ? These Fd620s' are notorious for ring wear , or so it seems . That is one example of when an engine just seems off a little on power . The 425 my neighbor has seems to rev higher than my 445 , as did the 455 diesel that I had last fall . My only regret is selling the 455 , and not the 445 . Not that there's anything wrong with a 445 , but man that diesel engine sure rocked


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I checked everything on the tractor again yesterday. I found that the oil was a little low, about 1/3 the way down the dipstick and the coolant was about 2 inches below the cold mark on the reservior. I also noticed that I have a small leak by the water pump, on the bottom, 95% sure it's a gasket leak as I can see it. I am going to assume the governor is doing what it's supposed to and restricting the airflow into the engine at WOT. I have not yet checked the compression in the cylinders to make sure I don't have any issues there. Will keep posting updates.
 

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With that many hours on engine , it surely needs a comprehensive engine evaluation ie..., compression / leak-down test . And I just about guarantee that the intake valves have a definite ridge on the sealing area . A lot of little things add up to be a significant power drop over time .

The good thing is that you can re-ring and re-work the heads on those fd620Ds' with-out removing the engine from tractor . Just take everything off the front-end of tractor ( grill -hood - hood support , and .., whoop - there it is .

Dave
 

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1987 John Deere 332. One of one with all upgrades
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JD parts says that the switch is AM101021. $15 for the switch. Where did you get yours?
 

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Thats the part I ordered, I wonder if there are different styles depending on tractor year or serial #?? This one is clearly not the same as the stock one, super close to it, but not identical.
 

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Matthew very often with tractors as old as the 200 series JD along the way has substituted a slightly different part that does the same thing. It might be that the original vendor is no longer in business or JD decided the quality of the product didn't any longer meet JD standards. The newest 200 tractors are now almost 28 years old and the oldest are about 40 years old. Go and try to buy any part for a Sears tractor that is that old. Be thankful you can even get a switch that is close at this time. What about the switch makes it not fit the same out of curiosity. Roger
 

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there is an original on eBay now.........

I install a push/pull from my supplier. They sell bus parts. Amazing that they have many bus part items which fit these tractor just fine !!
 

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Matthew I have a 1989 200 series parts book. By 1989 the original switch AM31209 was no longer available. Instead you used a PTO switch AH85260. That switch was replaced by the number you gave AM101021 which is also listed as a PTO switch but works as a light switch. Roger
 

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ya know I will try and tinker a bit more with it to see if i can get it to fit, otherwise, the part # you listed AH85260 has been coming up as available at some parts sites, i may try that one if i cant get the one i have to work. I will post what my hopeful success in case others are ever in the same situation....thanks for the knowledge, you guys are good.
 

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This might not help you if you don't have the original, but when mine didn't work I took the switch apart (yes, amazingly it could be taken apart!), cleaned the contacts with fine sandpaper and reassembled it. Worked fine after that. Be careful of small parts falling on the floor if you do.
 
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