[cubby]

My 285 was hard to start when I bought it and improved with a new fuel filter. Then it got really hard to start again. After it finally starts and is warmed up, it can set for about an hour and still start on the first hit. Any longer and I have to crank and crank. I've cleaned the carb, twice. The second time because after the first time it was still hard to start and was pulsing and turning the mixture screw in has no effect on it. Turning it back out about 2 turns will smooth things out some, but it's still really hard to start when it's cold. I've soaked it Chemdip Carb Cleaner, 20 minutes (per directions on the can, first time. About 18 hours the second time and blew every orifice out with carb cleaner. I'm tempted to just get a new one.

 

[flymo]

Kevin, I wonder if there's a bunch of crud in the fuel tank and it's clogging the filter and/or carb after you clean them?

 

[tommyhawk]

Kevin, did you check out the thread below about GT275? The twin cyl. liquid cooled engines are about the same below 60F on cold starting.
The screw you mention is for idle only, pretty useless for anything else. All of the Kawasaki's I'm familiar with are terrible on cold starts. The carburetor, as you have found has very tiny orifices and hard to clean without total disassembly.
If you do decide on a new one, take lots-o-cash! lol

tommyhawk

 

[cubby]

Tom, Yeah, I saw that string. My problem is it doesn't seem to matter what the temp is. It's a bear to start whether it's 36 or 96. Seems to take about the same. This last cleaning improved it somewhat. After it's finally started and warms up, you can stop it ans you'll have about an hour of quick starts then when it's totally cooled off, it's back to the cranking again. I've taken every part off of it that's shown in the parts diagram and soaked and sprayed. I keep wondering what's behind those Welch plugs. Found enough grass and crud behind those in my Cub once to make a mini hay bale. It shouldn't have been able to run and I don't see how the stuff got in there. I know they're really proud of the new ones, but this it about to drive me crazy and that's not a very long trip. My '66 110 starts every time with no throttle and full choke no matter what the temp is. Strangely, that's the only way it will start, but it works and on the first hit. I don't think the starter ever cranks it more than one revolution before it hits. I rebuilt that carb, too, so I don't think it's a lack of ability.

 

[woodpecker41]

Kevin I hate to say this because I like to be able to fix things but my 345 did the same thing and I had it apart a bunch of times before I just put a new carburetor on it. Now it starts year around in 2 to 5 seconds even when its cold out. Like today when I used it for blowing snow after it had been sitting more than 6 weeks. It still started in 5 cranks and ran perfectly as if it was a new one. Roger

 

[cubby]

Roger, I believe you're right. That's the direction I'm headed. Don't mind tearing things apart if I have a reasonable belief that they will come out of it running. Should've known that a carb with replaceable bushings on the throttle shaft (biggest problem I've run into with older carbs) would have some other hidden problems. I figure if it's that hard to clean, it won't be long before it's dirty again. My friends at the local dealership will he happy with me.

 

[tommyhawk]

If I should ever own one of those Kawasaki powered jewels, I would be tempted to tinker with that big ol' hole in the choke plate. Seems common on the Mikuni as well as some other carb. brands. I've also wondered how difficult would it be to separate the choke from the throttle control. I never liked that combination control on anything.
A new carb. for a 285 is priced at $160 at my local dealer. Doesn't seem unreasonable. Not having to remove it again for several years would be worth a lot, eh Kevin?
If you go that route, let us know if it works as well for you as the one for Roger's 345.

tommyhawk

 

[cubby]

Tommy, Seems like we're all in agreement about the new one. I don't want to have to do anything to it for a long time if possible. As for the choke, I'm really tempted to try putting the choke on its own linkage, like they were in the "old days" of my 110 and so many many more.

 

[woodpecker41]

Kevin my advice is to leave the choke as it is as the choke system will work fine with a new carburetor. The choke worked with my 345 but I still had all the problems you indicated. Roger

 

[cubby]

Thanks Roger. I remember when I put the new one on the Cub, it was like having a brand new mower. I'd like to make the ole 285 last a while. Next, I want something with full hydraulics and power steering and it has to be green

 

[JDF/ SwampFox]

Anyone have detailed pics of a mounted sleeve hitch and the components under the tractor?

 

[inspired_metal]

There are no components under the tractor. The sleeve hitch mounts on the closed frame just like a rear tiller. The lift arm then attaches to the rear lift kit pivot and you are good.

Dom

 

[sreynolds]

I think what he means is the lift assy under the seat/fender pan assy.

Go jdparts.com and look at the rear lift kit for the 210-216 tractors. Search on ebay for some pics, though many of them are not complete kits.

 

[T-Mo]

The rear lift kit will be mounted under the fender deck. It's best to remove the fender deck for this.

Intergral Hitch Install 68-74_110_112_200 Series.pdf (194.1 k)

 

[sreynolds]

For what its worth,

I recently installed a tiller, thus the rear lifting kit. I had removed the fender pan perhaps four times or more in the last year and I was NOT willing to do this again, so I investigated this and was able with little effort on my part, to install the rear lift with out removing or lifting the fender pan assy.

 

[JDF/ SwampFox]

Thank You Terry!
Exactly what I needed. I looked everywhere and wasn't finding what I wanted.
Thanks.

Dominic, I wanted to see where and how the lift arm attached under the tractor.

 

[sashiery]

You need small hands and good dexterity to put that rear lift on without moving the fender pan. I have done it by removing the two rear bolts on the fender pan, loosening the two front bolts, and sliding a 2x4 spacer between the frame and the pan.

 

[JDF/ SwampFox]

This is a newly acquired 212 so the deck is off while I clean and check things over.
Got the hitch on now.

 

[JDF/ SwampFox]

What is this piece with the red arrow for?

 

[ed_lincoln]

lift rod, 140, 317 closed frame in the back