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212 rear end wine

1631 Views 21 Replies 14 Participants Last post by  dd57chevy
Hey guys, looking for opinions about a Front end loader for a 455. I found one online from Compact tractor components http://www.compacttractorandcomponents.com/john_deere%204150%20fel.htm This unit looks very nice and seems to be very well built. It actually looks better then the John Deere version and is easier to attach and detach. Does anyone have any experience with this company and their products? I believe I will need to get a new pressure relief valve for the transmission on the tractor and I remember reading that I can shim one of the valves to create more PSI in the system for better lifting potential. Is there a write up on this anywhere? I could not find it.

Thanks for any info guys!
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Scott, it looks nicely made - I like the curved booms. Seems to be by the same guy who made "Ironmanfabrications" equipment a while back. The 40 loader does have the connection between the loader towers, which adds some resistance to racking which could be important if you're doing a lot of heavy or off-center work.

The unit appears slightly more difficult to attach & detach than the 40 in that you have to get off the tractor to work the pins, where on the 40 it can all be done from the seat - but no biggie.

You will definitely need the loader-specific relief valve to protect your drivetrain, and there's a control rod that goes with it.

You won't need to shim for greater lifting power (or swap in different boom cylinders like I did) as the stock lifting power is 400 pounds - more than that and I'd recommend a bigger tractor.

What's the price he's asking? For reference, I think my 40 loader, relief valve, starter weights, 12 suitcase weights and weight box went for about $2K total, 4 or 5 years ago.

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Hi Tim, I don't plan on doing extreme heavy work with it, mostly moving dirt, mulch, some gravel, and clearing out some brush.
It would be nice to attach it while sitting on the tractor however i was told you can drive into the loader and quickly snap the pins and its attached.
I figured 400 pounds was pretty much the max i would be lifting and if I did want to go a little higher I could shim the relief valve in the future.
Unfortunatley i cannot find a 40 series loader around me or much of anything online. I have heard good things and bad things about the 40 loader as far as lifting capacity and the speed, but that could be before the valves were shimmed.
They are currently asking 2500 on ebay for the loader and has a lifetime warranty on the components.
Sounds like you got a heck of a deal on your 40 loader!!

Scott, do you have a price yet on the CTC loader? It does look well-designed. Interesting that the video shows only the previous IronManfabrications loader - I guess he learned a few things from that version!

40s do seem to be priced pretty high - I don't think a lot of them were made. I was fortunate on mine - I was considering a Johnny Bucket, but after I sold the weight box and extra weights I didn't need, the 40 was within a couple of hundred dollars of the JB. I actually found my 40 using a "Wanted" ad here at WFM so you might want to think about that.

Be sure to budget for the relief valve and control rod - or if you go with the 40, make sure it's included in the sale. I think the post is lost now, but someone reported on trying to get away without installing the loader-specific relief valve and they fried their transaxle after only a couple of days work.

Hi Tim,
Yes, I do wish they had a video of the new loader working, however they do have lots of pictures of it, plus they do have a Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/Compact-Tractor-Components/309398031128?sk=photos with more pictures which I have been looking at.
I never really thought of the "Wanted section", I will have to look into that and see what any of the members have.
The price of the CTC loader is $2500 on their ebay store, or atleast thats the starting bid. I believe you can buy one outright for $2900
I will definitely have to budget in the relief valve. I do find needing the relief valve very odd though since you can take these tractors and put a plow behind causing heavy stress on the transmission. I see many tractors with hundreds of pounds of ballast pulling a plow and deere doesn't recommend one for this. Just an observation.... just seems odd.
Yeah, not sure I get that myself, Scott - I would have thought you could put most of the same stresses on the transaxle using a plow, a front blade, or a snowthrower. Maybe it has to do with the weight behind it, with 700 pounds of loader and another 500 pounds or so of weights to balance things out.

Tim and Scott,
In addition to the ground engaging activities which you have already mentioned, I seem to remember a thread on this site 4-5 years ago where another explanation for the pressure relief valve was to protect the hydraulics from an operator who drops a fully loaded bucket 500lbs) and abruptly slams the spool closed. Apparently the huge spike in pressure which would normally damage the hydraulics is neutralized by the pressure relief valve.

I've encountered all the conditions so far and am glad I've had the pressure relief valve even though there have been times pushing snow I would rather not have the pressure relief valve pop.

That's the odd part about the relief valve they want you to install, it's only for the forward motion of the tractor. The transmission has another relief valve that is for all of your implements, e.g. loader, blade, etc. The relief valve for your implements is the one you can shim to create my hydraulic pressure when using a loader. But the relief that Deere wants you replace is for the forward motion of the tractor. Just doesn't make much sense, other then if your wheels are not able to turn with a fully ballasted tractor. Seems like the same scenario could happen with a fully ballasted tractor using a plow, blade, or any other ground engaging equipment, but Deere doesn't say anything about using it with them. Well thats just my thoughts anyway..... Deere always keeps you guessing.....
Scott - I think Deere might think if they can get us guessing - they have planted the seed in our brain to have that nearly 300 buck loader specific relief valve
. It's just too bad that lots of used 40s' don't come with the valve , like it does when the loader was sold new . I bought a loader for one locally , but the man wouldn't let me spend the half hour it would have taken me to replace the valve and release lever with mine from the 400 hr. tractor I have . Some people are funny like that .

Deere has brilliant marketing skills , and more than likely even more brilliant engineering to boot . That being said ; I would rather have that valve in mine ( and I do ), than have to constantly be "guessing" at whether , or when , I'm going to tear the B'jeezus out of that expensive K-91 .

Scott - My question would be - since they toute the CTC loader as "Better" than Mother Deeres' 40 FeL , Why doesn't Ron include the loader specific relief valve and lever with his Greater than loader ? ? ? Tread lightly with that Co. Looks can be d..., Nuff said . One more thing ; The only way it could be easier to attach than the 40 , would be if the hoses hooked themselves up for you .

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I think it's not a matter of Deere keeping the customer guessing, but rather of us here at WFM preferring a bit more information about things than the average customer! There's no ambiguity in the 40 Loader manual at all; it pretty much says "If you install the loader you need this valve or transaxle damages will result." Isn't there also a sticker on the loader masts that says that as well?

David, I'm sure there's a reason why your seller didn't hear from you that "No valve, no control rod = no sale" but in any case, it's something to know about, and negotiate, up front.

I would recommend a Deere loader. I bought a 3180 CTC loader for my 332 new from Rod(Owner) and had a bad experience with the projected lead time to build, the loader itself, and the customer service or lack of. Lets just say that I saw a 44 loader up for sale about a year later and I bought it and sold the CTC loader. There are other discussions on this site about the issues others have had with their loaders and Rod the owner. Hopefully your experience would be better than mine was.
Tim -

You are spot on . When you find a loader for 1K ; You don't push your luck and maybe piss the guy off . I gave him the money and smiled all the way home .
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I know I am a little late to the game, but I have a CTC 4150 FEL and have no issues/complaints.

Any questions I had were answered very quickly including access to parts. I bought mine second hand and it required a new locking pin up front.

Just my opinion,

My 212 has an excessive rear end wine.
The rear end is louder than the engine.
I read old archives and said put a thicker oil in which I did and still nothing.
Does the transmission need a rebuild?
Should I put thicker oil in?(it has 80w-90 in it now)
It is the loudest in 3&4 gears.
Please help me with some advice,
first have you checked the oil level in the transaxle?
low oil can cause a problem.

85w140 is what I use in mine
It will be the loudest in 3-4 because everything is moving the fastest. The gear drive tractors have extremely tough rear ends in them. My 210 whined all the time. I wouldn't worry about rebuilding it unless it is getting stuck between gears or popping out of gear on its own. There isn't a lot that can go wrong in these rear ends. Popping out of gear on its own is a very common thing as these get older. There is a spring and a little ball bearing that keeps the shift forks in place. The spring wears out or breaks and the ball doesn't hold the forks anymore. It is a less than $10 fix as long as you don't keep using it after it happens. Like Glen said check the oil level and use a lot thicker oil.
My transmissions are louder than the engine exhaust.

No troubles

I have 85-140 in them.
Ben. First I think that the type of gear lube matters. I don't know why but the better the lube the lower the noise. and B, I had a horrible noise with my 214 and found out that it was an idler and a pulley scrapping on each other.
Thank you all for your advice.
I ended up putting thicker oil in and just as Richard said my idler pulley was scraping against the other.
And the noise stopped completely.

Thanks again,
I have a 214 that has a semi loud rear end even though I had it apart and replaced the shifting parts. Then I have a 212 that is really quite in the rear.
I don't know but I think it's just the nature of the units.
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