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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Question for those of you with a 425 and a 60" deck - are those decks considered to be a floating deck like the one on my 317? I haven't found a manual yet and the RF wheel is on the ground all the time when the deck is lowered. I have four spacers between the wheel and the mount for the 3" cutting height.

Also, when I back up, the RF wheel rotates, but seems to stop in mid-rotate (because of the spring?) and gouges the yard. It's been greased fine and rotates fine by hand. Forward and full reverse the wheel and spring work fine - just when I turn in reverse. The wheel does seem to be a little worn out on the axle. Any ideas?

Thanks
Todd
 

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Hi Todd. Ditto what Robert said, I have the same problem on my 455. My RF wheel is not on the ground all the time, I think the decal says for it to have a 1/4 to 1/2 inch clearance. But if I mow into a corner that has a slight upgrade and the RF wheel makes contact with the ground, and back out on an angle, bingo, the same thing as your described. Mine is also greased, turns freely by hand, and the wheel and spring seem okay. I make mental notations when this happens and try to alter my mowing habits in that area to prevent the problem. Hope this helps.
Wayne
 

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Todd, you don't want the wheel on the ground when mowing - you just have it set too low for the cutting height. I'm think I only have 3 spacers total on mine anyway. Try setting the rear wheels about 1/2" off the ground, and the fronts about 1" and see if that helps.

I am not terribly pleased with the cut quality of the 60" deck on my 455 (although I am pleased with the cut speed!). I have a sidehill mow and the low side seems to "dig in" more. I think that's just the way it is with these large decks.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Took the advise from some of the comments posted here and took the spring right off. The wheel worked perfectly the way I feel it should. I still need to get the cutting height adjusted a bit as I think it still mowing a touch too close, but it's getting closer.

Thanks for all the comments.

Todd
 

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I have a problem with my 1979 John Deere 212 with the 12 Kohler as you already know.

The engine runs for about 30 minutes and it starts surging real bad. I rebuilt the carb back in May so it is not very long ago, I got the kit from Stens.

I have never been good at adjusting Carbs but I think I have it pretty good, Roger told me that the governors in the engines make then difficult to adjust them.

But I am open to anything.

Ben
 

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Ben governors are not hard to adjust. I told you to do it as the manual tells you do it not by guessing. If it runs for 30 minutes put a new condenser on the engine and make sure it is on the negative side of the coil on the same post that goes to the points. Also make sure the condenser's case is grounded to the engine. If you have replaced the condenser before get a new one from Kohler or JD. The 30 minute run time is how long it takes the condenser to get warm and electrically break down when it is bad. If you don't want to deal with the condenser put David Kirk's Points Saver on the tractor. That allows you to take the condenser out of the ignition circuit. Roger
 

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Roger,
I didn't mean adjusting the governors I meant adjusting the carbs, because the governors level them out.

I know I didn't finish my sentence.

But I did as you said got a new condenser and made sure it was the same post as the points which was the negative side.

But it still surges at about 15-20 minutes.

I am leaning toward the carb but like I said it has a fairly new carb kit and I adjusted to manual specifications.

Like I said I am open to anything.
Ben
 
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