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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In the past, some pictures of the subject were posted - lost it in the Crash of '10. If anyone can repost pictures or information on the customizations required to make the cab work with the loader mounts, that would be helpful.
Thanks.

Tim
 

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Tim,
I tried the very thing you asking about. I modified my Curtis cab mounts so that I could leave them attached to the frame and still mount the loader brackets. I probably have pictures of the mods to the loader brackets. The other part I discovered I needed to do was to remove the inner "ear" off of each loader bracket socket...the part that accepts the loader masts. I thought that would do it, however, the clearance was so tight between the loader brackets and the outside of the cab, I gave it up because I would have either dented or scratched the cab with the loader bracket sockets. I settled for being able to leave the Curtis cab mounts permanently attached to the frame when switching from winter to summer configuration.

I asked Curtis if they had designed the cab to be used with the loader and they said no. The main reason was the horizontal cross member between the loader masts would prevent the cab being installed at the same time. I had decided I could add a stand-off to the front of each loader mast to allow enough clearance for the cab but when the loader frame socket clearance issue surfaced I didn't pursue any further.

Having said all this, as I recall from reading on this site awhile back, there seem to be two different sets of loader brackets. If I recall correctly, I think the only difference between the two was that the newer version offered more clearance between the loader bracket and the rear tires (more clearance for bar tires and/or turfs with chains). If the newer version also provided 1/4" more clearance between the inside edge of loader socket and the fender pan foot rests, then it might be doable to have the loader and cab co-exist....in my case at least.


Hope this helps....let me know if you want pics of the modified Curtis cab mounts and I'll see if I can dig them up.

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tim, thanks for the reply. I'm not sure I completely follow your first paragraph - are you saying you gave up on mounting the cab and loader brackets at the same time, so you pull the loader brackets off to put the cab on?

It appears that the fairly beat up cab I have has the cab brackets modified to fit on at the same time as the loader frame, but as you say that doesn't mean that the cab itself will fit.

I'd very much appreciate seeing some pics, of both the modified cab and modified loader brackets. Or really any pics you have would be great. I'm also interested in how the cab mates up with the front of the footboards - wondering if I can modify the cab with some type of bracket to mount directly on the loader frame, or if the cab brackets are needed to prevent their being a gap at the bottom front of the cab.

If you'd prefer sending them rather than adding to WFM's storage tab, my address is in my profile. Thanks!

Tim
 

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TimS,
Yes, exactly. The loader brackets and the Curtis cab brackets co-exist [with some modification of the cab brackets where they attach to the frame] but the loader brackets and cab body do no coexist. Basically, I had to cut and grind a half moon shape on each cab bracket to allow clearance where the loader bracket attaches to the frame. Having done that, I can leave the cab brackets attached to the frame and put the loader brackets on and off as needed.

Due to clearance issues, I have elected to take the loader brackets off when mounting the cab itself. Even by removing the inside ears on the loader bracket sockets, there is negative clearance between the loader bracket sockets and the outside cab glass /surface. I even contemplated adding 1/4" spacers between the front loader brackets and the tractor frame to try to obtain enough clearance but since I know I'd be pushing the loader to advertised capacity and then some, I elected not to potentially jeopardize the structural integrity of the loader bracket design.

I have the cab mounted now....I can take some pics to show you how they line up on my machine. I'll take new pics of the cab bracket modifications if I can't find the originals as well and will email them.

Timf
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Tim, thanks very much for sending the pics - just what I needed! Interestingly, someone had already done the same mods to the brackets I have.

I tried a dry fit this morning, and I see what you mean. In addition to the loader socket banging right into the window, it looks like the curve of the loader bracket itself interferes with the cab uprights. So all in all, I conclude that it really isn't practical to fit the cab with the loader brackets in place.

Now I need to decide whether it's really worth using the cab at all. Mine needs a refurb, and then I'd have to drill the fender and footboards for the cab, and after that remove and reinstall the loader brackets every year. Not sure I'm really up for all that.

Thanks again for your help!

Tim
 

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i need help with 2 things: appreciate help.

1. Have 23x10.5x12 non-AG tires, but, a week ago picked extra set of rims+tires of size 23x8.5x12 cheap. Along with 'single notch cast iron wheel weights'. 1 of the 8.5 tires had washer fluid when removed. For snow plowing are 8.5 tires bettered than 10.5?
2. Does any one have details for DIY 43" blade manual angler kit? I want to build one by myself: the blade I have needs one.
 

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It's a small garden tractor that will push only so much snow, don't over think it. 2 inches of more tire width isn't going to make or break it.
Use the tires you like on there and get chains.
 

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I have a home built manual angle and basically looked at the drawings in JD parts. There is one piece that bolts to the blade mount to allow pivoting and scaled everything from the 2 bolt holes that hold that part on. I will see if I can find some pictures. If I don't I will be digging the blade out of storage in the next weeks for snow duty and will take the pictures then. Often for snow plowing narrower tires work better than wide tires. I do use 10.50s and chains on my 214. Roger
 

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I have only read that turf tires are best for running in snow/ice as the chain links contact the ground better.............

yea, I thought the same thing. That is sorta splitting hairs. SOme guys keep a set of turf tires mounted on rims with the chain. Ready to mount on the hub come first snow. Pull the bars and mount the slicks. And studs welded to the rim. The weights slip right onto said studs. A couple of nuts and good to go.

I guess.

Furthermore....read that chains don't fit proper on a set of bar tires. I have yet to have a problem.

I like a weight box. I keep it in place year 'round. Has a hitch on the bottom of it. Load her with weight when time comes. Then others still, leave the integral tiller mounted and employ that for weight.................havn't tried that,,,,, yet.
 

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Roger, thanks for the offer for 'angler kit details'. You can email me (look in my profile) when you have the details.

Scott, both tire sets I have (8.5 & 10.5) are turf tires: I guess I can put the weights on the 8.5 for winter and start rust clean/paint work on the 10.5 rims. :)

And defer 'weight box' fabrication for next spring/summer.
 
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