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I recently picked a nice LT 133 BUt the headlights will not come on . I have tried new bulbs know to be good and checked with a test light but I have no power at the bulb socket With the key on So Im thinking their might be a Relay ? that controls them ?? And at this time not sure which direction to go in w/o a wiring diagram would any one have just the headlight circut
Thanks
 

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Dan,
I sent you the TM - it's a large file, around 17 mb. I hope it goes through, if not, you might want to register for a gmail account, as it can handle up to 25 mb files.
 

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Well, it looks like your email can't handle 17 mb, so if you get a gmail address, I can send this to you. I can reduce the file size down, but I don't want to lose quality. Let me know.
 

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Dan - Some of the LTs' didn't have a reg./rectifier system . The ones that didn't don't have a light switch , and the lights run anytime the motor is running . I had one like it , and had to re-tention the little contacts in the bulb sockets to where they would make contact with the bulb contacts . They should be working to prevent the battery from possible over-charging with the system that doesn't have the the rect./reg. system . A little tweaking of the contacts in the bulb sockets usually gets them going again .

Dave
 

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The LT133 had two different electrical systems on it, some had a 3 amp system, some had a 15 amp system. This was based on serial number. You could tell them apart by how many positions were on the ignition switch, the 3 amp had 3 positions, the 15 amp had 4 positions. The 3 amp system with the 3 position switch, the headlights were on when the switch was in the "Run" position. The 15 amp system, the position on the switch between "Off" and "Run" was for headlights. Also, the RIO was introduced in 1999, so 1999 models and newer had a RIO switch, while the 1998s didn't. It will help to know which system is on Dan's LT.
 

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My task for this weekend is going to be fixing a friend of mines 214 with the k321 kohler. It runs like it has a burnt exhaust valve, I'm debating about just lapping it, replacing the head gasket, and re- installing everything. The one problem I have is I don't have the right tool to compress the valve springs... I'm sure someone here has done this before, and could give a few bits of advice.
Thanks, JDB
 

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Take the head off and check the valves out. Also check the valve gap before you take it apart. I ran into a K301 a couple months ago with no valve gap, the whole exhaust valve was burnt all the way around/junk.
If the exhaust valve is burnt you should be able do get the valve keepers to drop off by prying the valve retainer up with a screw driver. Years ago they put rope down the spark plug hole and rotated the engine to hold the valve down or up to remove the valve spring. You may be able to buy a tool to screw into the sparkplug hole and use a air compressor to hold the valve down
 

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Jesse.to add to what Ed said use some plastic ty stays for wire wrap it around the spring up and down and pull it tight and compress the spring ,then go 180 degrees and do the same to other side ,this will compress the spring ,then you should be able to remove the kepper .hope this helps .David
 
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