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hi All: I need a little diagnostic help. We just had a horrific flood here in central NY and I had 4 of my deere herd go under - as in 4 feet under!! So far, I've got the 335 back up and running, but the GT235 has an electrical problem I can yet pinpoint.

When I turn the key I get dash lights but no starter. I can jump the starter directly from a battery and it spins up just fine. I've jumpered off each of three safety switches I found: seat, brake and the one in the back by the tranny (not sure what that one does!) I've cleaned every connection I can find. Worked the PTO switch several times, but still no starter with the key. Any ideas where to go next?? Thanks . . Doug
 

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Perhaps it's still a moisture related issue. Can you use a blow-dryer or heat gun on the individual electrical components & connections to help isolate a possible source.

I've had similar problems with my automotive background, moisture in places it shouldn't be.....
 

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Sounds like water in the key switch since you've jumped around all the other switches. I've had them apart, so it's doable, but a real pain to put back together. Probably less time, effort and %*&# if you just get a new one. Or you could put it in your wife's oven at about 250 for a half hour or so.
If your machine is rigged by the safety police to kill the engine when backing up, the switch by the tranny may be the reverse kill switch.
 

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Hello everyone! new guy here but have been lurking around here for awhile, garnering information and data about my tractor.

I recently acquired a hydraulic system for this tractor and am looking for installation instructions or helpful information.

thanks in advance everyone
 

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Christopher,
Welcome to the group here.
Quick Question, Are you the bunch of Hooie people talk about When they say,"Thats a bunch of Hooie?"

Dom
 

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No idea, the original form of the name is "Howie," an old Scottish surname. Like many names of folks from the old countries, it was misspelled upon immigration to the states, as a large number of individuals could not read or write- and so names were spelled like they sounded. The proper pronunciation should should like Who-ee.
 

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Its a work in progress, I work second shift and only have a limited time to work on it. Currently I am trying to get the lift lever out- like many of the nuts, bolts and other parts, it is either painted or rusted in place. It does seem a straightforward install otherwise. Only problem so far is some of the small parts (nuts and bolts) are missing- I bought it off ebay and the seller apparently did not think to include them. I may also need to get one pulley- the one on the pump is bent at the v-groove, but I may be able to straighten it.
 

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I forgot how much of a pain it was to get the lift lever out! (I took the handle out last year when I put the electric lift on, then I recently swapped it for the hydraulic lift). You have to take the set bolt completely out because it goes into a hole on the lever. I took the rubber handle off and tried turning the lever with a pair of vise grips, but what worked best was a long punch and hitting it up from underneath.
 

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Great thread! I have 210 manual lift and have picked most of the pieces to convert to hydraulic. I am missing the hose guide and the rectangular spacer that goes between the pump bracket and the left rear motor mount. If any body has dimensions of these parts so I can fab them up please post them!
I have read the installation instructions over and over and do not quite under stand how to remove the manual lift lever. It says:

*Loosen set screw securing manual lift lever in place.
*Depress thumb release, twist lever 90 degrees and remove it.

I am assuming twisting the handle and not pulling on the lever.
Which direction? Clockwise or Counterclockwise?
Any tips on removing the lever is appreciated.

I am wanting to install my hydraulic kit in the next few weeks once I get all the parts painted up.

Hec
 

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I had to take out the button and spring assembly from the lift lever and drive it out with a big hammer and punch. This after soaking it with various penetrating oils for several days. Instead of the rectangular piece I used large washers to get the space I needed.
 

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Christopher,

Thanks for that! So washers can be substituted for the rectangular spacer. There's nothing critical about the shape of the spacer I guess. I am going to start soaking my lift arm with PB blaster. I still have a few weeks before I install the hydro kit. My goal is to have installed before I mount the 37A snow thrower which would be around mid Nov. Omaha has had decent snow as early as holloween.

Hec
 

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you will probably have to experiment, but my solution was successful- I am still tweaking it, as it is noisy still. I have some "slap" of the bracket at the motor and motor mount attachment points. I am thinking of installing a rubber washer at each point, but am not sure about this yet.
 
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