[rey]

Anyone know the part number to the quick couplers for the 455 selector valve? Mine are rusted and stuck, need to replace them.

Rey

 

[timf]

Rey,
The couplers can be found under the 425, 445, 455 Lawn and Garden Tractor heading, section 70 - Hydraulics, sub-section 120 - Lift Control Hydraulic Lines on the John Deer Parts site online (I would have expected them under the 121 - Selective Control Valve sub-section).

Hydraulic Quick-Connect Coupler (AM115139)

In the event you need the plastic caps for the quick connectors:

Black Plug (M85099)
Yellow Plug (M132031)
Silver Plug (M132032)
Green Plug (M132034)

Timf

 

[flymo]

And the other ends of the plastic caps are:

Silver (M132022)
Yellow (M132021)
Black (M70728)
Green (M132024)

This post reminded me I need to order some so I looked these up.

Tim

 

[jon_nw_iowa]

214 overhauled 40 hours ago. Runs nice,used as tiller tractor only. Now started to fall on its face when it warms up. Put on a new carb, no change, new coil and points and Kirk points saver, no change. When it pulls down it misses and has like an octane knock. Shut the tiller off and go to half throttle and it smooths right out. Valve spring problem? Or point setting?
They are set at .020. Thanks for advice.

 

[JDF/ SwampFox]

Hi Jon,
Thanks for the Helper Spring sale and I finally got it installed and it's great. Now I have to put the other one in my 214.
Today I put the side panels on the 212 and was test driving it around the hood when all of a sudden it died and wouldn't start. Luckily I was only 2 blocks from home so I pushed it home and did a diagnostic on it. MY problem was a sparking spark plug not firing under compression I guess. It fired out of the hole but it would not give a hint of starting the engine. I bought a new NGK plug and boom, all is good.
My point is, even though a spark plug seems to be good, it may not be. At least that cured my problem.

 

[sreynolds]

I used to replace plugs all the time as a preventative measure but, I have read on this site from an engine rebuilder that plugs do not wear out.............

That said, after a full-out rebuild of a twin cyl Kohler, all was good and it slowly developed signs of missing after a short while then hard stating, then NO starting.

I went ALL over that thing. Started replacing parts, carb service, adjust the timing, new ignition system from Kirk's, replace points....... on and on and on.

It turned out to be the plugs.

I guess you can't belive what folks say.

 

[hec_in_omaha]

Jon,

When I first got my 210 it ran great at half throttle or less. If I raised the throttle beyond that, the engine would start to cough and sputter really bad. Turned out the Previous Owner put a cheapie carb kit in it. This kit had a needle that was rubber tipped and couldn't hold back the fuel pressure developed at higher rpms and therefore flooded out the carb with fuel. Replaced the needle and seat with a new one that was all brass and no rubber tip and she runs perfect now. Just a thought, try pinching the fuel line near the carb when it acts up. If it smoothes out then you may have to look into the carb.

Hec

 

[sreynolds]

I havn't used/seen a solid brass needle in years and years......

Interesting.

 

[hec_in_omaha]

Scott,

I should also add that I replaced the needle and seat with the same style rubber tipped needle that the P.O. had installed when I was having the engine trouble. Someone recommended the solid brass needle and wha-la! Fixed!

Hec

 

[sreynolds]

very strange.

I never used one, unless it was way way back when I was in high school. Remember seeing them though.

 

[jon_nw_iowa]

So, I took it to my engine builder and found a blown head gasket. Planed the head. Reset the timing, Put it on the tiller and it ran 200 feet like a champ. Got it warm and dropped like a fly.
Missed, farted, wouldn't pull. Throttled it back to 1/2 and smoothed right out. Didn't have enough power to go to the shed at high throttle, ran smooth at 1/2. New coil, condensor, carb, points.
Any suggestions?

 

[woodpecker41]

Check to see if that points didn't move and the timing changed. Roger

 

[hec_in_omaha]

Jon,

Did ya check the carb as I stated in an earlier post? Sometimes its the simple things that can ruin your day.

Hec

 

[mm210]

Sticky exhaust valve? Carbon under the face? That's the problem with one lungers, they don't provide a LOT of info. Really sounds electrical but after some of the crud I've seen, you never know. Tight valve gap COULD do some weird stuff when it gets warm too. Wait, loose could too. I am so confused! Wait, you said octane knock? That sounds electrical. MAybe point rod worn off and when you set the points it's too wide, which is early detonation? I'm fishin' here folks. Mike.

 

[mm210]

Wow-the software won't allow the word C7%p? Man, are we that sensitive!

 

[jon_nw_iowa]

Thanks guys. I am going to give it a going over on Saturday.
In the meantime I will have to use my restored 210 to do some customers gardens. Really didn't want to get it dirty. Lol

 

[ryan214]

I would check the coil. This was the problem I had with my 214. And, like yours, at lower throttle speed, it smoothed out. I was lucky because my cousins dad had just picked up two 214 and I was able to test with one of his coils. Hope this helps.

 

[jon_nw_iowa]

It was the point setting. You were right Roger, they slipped 3 thousands. Runs nice now, worked it hard today and the only time it quit was when it ran out of gas! Lol

 

[cr135i]

My 210 did this exact thing when I did not have the condenser mounted securely. The condenser needs good ground, tractor would idle and do part throttle but wide open was not allowed.