The couplers can be found under the 425, 445, 455 Lawn and Garden Tractor heading, section 70 - Hydraulics, sub-section 120 - Lift Control Hydraulic Lines on the John Deer Parts site online (I would have expected them under the 121 - Selective Control Valve sub-section).
Hydraulic Quick-Connect Coupler (AM115139)
In the event you need the plastic caps for the quick connectors:
Black Plug (M85099)
Yellow Plug (M132031)
Silver Plug (M132032)
Green Plug (M132034)
214 overhauled 40 hours ago. Runs nice,used as tiller tractor only. Now started to fall on its face when it warms up. Put on a new carb, no change, new coil and points and Kirk points saver, no change. When it pulls down it misses and has like an octane knock. Shut the tiller off and go to half throttle and it smooths right out. Valve spring problem? Or point setting?
They are set at .020. Thanks for advice.
Thanks for the Helper Spring sale and I finally got it installed and it's great. Now I have to put the other one in my 214.
Today I put the side panels on the 212 and was test driving it around the hood when all of a sudden it died and wouldn't start. Luckily I was only 2 blocks from home so I pushed it home and did a diagnostic on it. MY problem was a sparking spark plug not firing under compression I guess. It fired out of the hole but it would not give a hint of starting the engine. I bought a new NGK plug and boom, all is good.
My point is, even though a spark plug seems to be good, it may not be. At least that cured my problem.
When I first got my 210 it ran great at half throttle or less. If I raised the throttle beyond that, the engine would start to cough and sputter really bad. Turned out the Previous Owner put a cheapie carb kit in it. This kit had a needle that was rubber tipped and couldn't hold back the fuel pressure developed at higher rpms and therefore flooded out the carb with fuel. Replaced the needle and seat with a new one that was all brass and no rubber tip and she runs perfect now. Just a thought, try pinching the fuel line near the carb when it acts up. If it smoothes out then you may have to look into the carb.
I should also add that I replaced the needle and seat with the same style rubber tipped needle that the P.O. had installed when I was having the engine trouble. Someone recommended the solid brass needle and wha-la! Fixed!
So, I took it to my engine builder and found a blown head gasket. Planed the head. Reset the timing, Put it on the tiller and it ran 200 feet like a champ. Got it warm and dropped like a fly.
Missed, farted, wouldn't pull. Throttled it back to 1/2 and smoothed right out. Didn't have enough power to go to the shed at high throttle, ran smooth at 1/2. New coil, condensor, carb, points.
Sticky exhaust valve? Carbon under the face? That's the problem with one lungers, they don't provide a LOT of info. Really sounds electrical but after some of the crud I've seen, you never know. Tight valve gap COULD do some weird stuff when it gets warm too. Wait, loose could too. I am so confused! Wait, you said octane knock? That sounds electrical. MAybe point rod worn off and when you set the points it's too wide, which is early detonation? I'm fishin' here folks. Mike.
I would check the coil. This was the problem I had with my 214. And, like yours, at lower throttle speed, it smoothed out. I was lucky because my cousins dad had just picked up two 214 and I was able to test with one of his coils. Hope this helps.
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