[flymo]

The perforated metal part of the side panels for my 455 is pretty dull and dingy - now that I've cleaned up and gotten the scratches out of the hood and plastic parts of the side panels, the metal looks very dull and brownish. I can't see any rust or anything, it just looks dull. Anyone have any cleaning or other tips to spruce this up?

Tim

 

[funnydirt14]

Super clean or Simple green diluted and let is soak on something flat like a piece of rubber. Scrub after about 10 mins. soaking with nylon brush. Scrub both side to get out all the dirt.

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Spray paint

 

[funnydirt14]

If you think it might be rust, spray some PB blaster on it and let is sit. If its rust it will run brown down the sides.

 

[flymo]

Thanks guys - I'll try the heavy cleaning first. Anyone have experience with painting these panels? I am concerned about the paint plugging up all the little holes.

Tim

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Just stand back 2-1/2 feet , shoot and let the paint mist itself on . A few light coats of mist only should do it .

 

[flymo]

David, have you tried that yourself, and if so, how were the results?

(this is the 5th time I have tried to post that - file locking errors seem to be getting more frequent).

Tim

 

[jdmaninlouky]

Tim -

No , I haven't actually tried it yet ; but I will , as I have two side panels in the same shape . I may (or not) remove the screens before painting them so I don't have to do all the masking . But not even sure about that . These are two extras I have left over from a parts 425 AWS that I'm just holding back if needed someday . This is what I was thinking (only) , to keep the paint from closing up the holes in screens .

Also thinking a small sponge foam paint roller lightly loaded with Deere green to just touch the surface with little paint . That seems do-able

Dave

 

[ryan214]

Vinnie, The battery posts and cables are new so there isn't any corrosion.

Dave, I thought 45v seemed high to me too but my manual said 28 or more volts.

Can the stator produce too much and cause damage to other components?

 

[sreynolds]

I have never seen one that high. Always 30 or so **or** none. If that thing isn't working...there is no reason to change out/test other components. Another thing that goes bad, is the flywheel magnets. But they either work or don't.

The key switch is a source of problems when you get other items taken care of. The voltage passes from the stator to the reg and then out to the key switch. If that key switch is in anyway questionable change it out. I have forgotten if you replaced this item. Just a heads up on that. You can test this circuit with an ohm meter. The plug on the back of the switch for the battery power gets hot (with resistance due to corrosion of that circuit's connections) and melts.
A new stator from Kohler is only 50.00 on eBay.

 

[ryan214]

I will see if I can get a new switch. I never replaced it. I was having problems with the tractor starting a while ago, but I found it to be the wires loose in the back of the switch and some mild corrosion. I cleaned the corrosion off and never had a problem since. I still question the switch though because of the condition it was in. Also are you telling me the stator is bad? I would have no idea why the stator would produce that much voltage. I will check everything again with the Fluke meter that I keep indoors instead of the Harbor Freight one we leave in the shed.

 

[sreynolds]

You are testing it on AC volts...........RIGHT??? Engine running about half throttle or so and on the stator leads (the two outboard wires on the regulator/regulator harness). I find they produce max voltage starting about 1/3 rd throttle. The manual says full throttle, but what does it know.

 

[ryan214]

Tested again with the Fluke meter and got what I think are more solid results.

Stator: Outside wires of regulator harness: 39 vac
Regulator: With wires connected, middle to ground: 17 vdc
Battery: no load: 12.6 vdc
Battery: w/load lights: 12.3 vdc

All measurements were constant with little to no change. Where do I go from here?

 

[sreynolds]

If you tested properly, the stator is disconnected from the circuit while engine running/testing........... then you should have above battery voltage AT the battery. The circuit consists of the connection at the reg middle term. then to the key switch, then to the battery via the starter solenoid connection I think. I cannot recall the exact schematic. You have to test the circuit with battery removed. Use the Ohm meter function.

This is all VERY common. Everyone has this issue. It is not unique/rare. It is an easy fix. Very simple electrical circuit.

One of the most simple tests: Remove the middle wire on the reg. Trurn on key to run. You will have battery voltage...whatever that is......if not; You troubleshoot circuit as I mentioned.

 

[sashiery]

Those are very good numbers, which means that the expensive parts are good. Now you probably need to start checking the switch (do that first) and then the wiring.

 

[dd57chevy]

I honestly don't have the courage to reread this entire thread , Ryan , so I'll make a couple of suggestions , maybe they've been addressed .

1 . Did you establish that the battery is good ? Your engine will not run properly with a dead OR dying battery .

2 . You need to make sure the coil has a solid , clean ground contact . Even if it does , you may want run a ground "jump" wire from the coil body to the frame .

 

[sreynolds]

Coil?
The ignition coil?
Grounding the ignition coil body?

.....................???????????????????

 

[sreynolds]

no such thing.

http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/perform/ignition.html

 

[mcain]

One thing that will make it run like that is the gasket where the breather go on should have a hole for the carb vent.If the gasket dont it will not run with a darn.

 

[ryan214]

Dave- I am confused with the coil grounding as Scott seems to be too. The coil seems to be in a hard plastic case so there is no way to ground the body.

I am assuming that what you guys are telling me is that the stator and regulator is good, so I need to check the switch, circuit breaker, and the wires from the regulator to the battery. How is the breaker tested, is it for continuity or ohms? Also is there a diagram for the switch?

Mitchell- I am kind of confused as to what you are talking about. Is the vent in the gasket behind the breather cover or something else?

Thanks for your help,
Ryan