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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 425 AWS power steering cylinder decided to spring a leak at the shaft seal. Upon examination it looks as if this is one of those cylinders that cannot be repaired. Am I correct? The best price I found so far is $239.00. I can't seem to locate any used ones either.
 

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Jim,

Yes the ends are welded and would have to be cut off and rewelded. There is a used one on $Bay for $100.

George of Buford
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I decided to just get a new cylinder and just be done with it. JD wanted $263.00, but I found one at http://www.greenfarmparts.com/ for $243.00 inc. shipping and a new seat spring. My end links were bad too so getting the cylinder rebuilt would have only corrected part of the problem.

I changed the cylinder today and it took me about 2 hours. Half of that time was goofing around with metric and sae wrenches. I was also trying to figure out what a roll pin was doing in the old cylinder that the new cylinder didn't have. I finally determined that it must be there to keep the cylinder from turning. I was able to get the pin out and tap it into the new cylinder. The hardest part of the job was getting the old cylinder out because they use a Morse taper on both ends and you must use a pickle fork to get the end off the steering pivot plate. You must remove the tie rod to the left wheel and then turn the wheel as far right as possible in order to be able to get the pickle fork in there. The end that attaches to the axle can just be tapped out with a hammer. I’m not worried about boogering the threads because it’s being replaced anyway. There is very little clearance when trying to jockey the new cylinder in place. Replacing the cylinder obviously corrected the leak and the sloppy steering, but I’m still having a problem with hard steering. I think the steering valve may be going. Oh brother!!

I like the way the 425 AWS performs, but it’s been a real lemon since the day I got it. I think I may have dumped over a grand into it over the years and it just seems like there is no end to the things that go wrong with it. It has a carburetor problem too. If I wasn’t able to do the work myself, it would have driven me into the poorhouse by now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You know, this is going to be really embarrassing for me to admit, but it at least proves that I am not perfect even tho everyone thinks I am!


After I changed the cylinder yesterday I checked the hydro fluid level (with the engine running)and it was right up there. I was surprised that it was after losing so much oil and putting in an empty cylinder. Well who am I to argue with the dipstick. Today I looked at the book and it didn't say anything about the engine running, but it did say to leave the dipstick cap rest on the tube when checking the fluid level. This time I checked it with the engine turned off and the dipstick came out dry. I couldn't believe it! I added about a pint of hygard and to my utter amazement it was still dry. I repeated this process over and over until I emptied almost a full gallon into the transaxle. I must have looked really stupid with my mouth hanging open and my chin on the driveway. I actually looked to see if the oil was running out somewhere. I finally got the level where it belongs and now my steering problem has disappeared. OH HAPPY DAYS!!!!!!!! I would still like to know why I got the false reading and this is not the only time it happened either.
 

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I replaced the old style carb with a new "late model" carb ($296.00 from JD) while I had the motor out of my 425 to replace the rings. It made a world of difference in how smooth it runs. No more hard starts when warm. No more boiling fuel after shut-down. Cut my fuel use WAY down. Like having a new tractor but cheaper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The steering would still stiffen up at times. I found 2 zerks at the rear wheel steering pivots that looked as if they have never been touched. I greased them and BOY did that make a difference!
 

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Can anyone tell me why is this parking brake linkage is nowhere near close enough to engage with the pedal down as far as it will go?

I've just removed/reinstalled/adjusted the variator, rear idler and driven sheave for maintenance....did I put some back together really wrong?

Thanks for any insight!

 

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1987 John Deere 332. One of one with all upgrades
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Just to make sure are you pushing down the clutch? I did this when I first got my 214. I sat trying to engage the parking brake with the brake and it wouldn't work. Then i used the clutch and it worked because that is how it is made. If you are pushing the clutch then loosen the rod that goes back along the frame. If you already did this and no change I am not sure if there is any adjustment for the locking mechanism, so an expert can chime in here.
 

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Anne what year is your tractor. My 1978 the latch and lock for the brake is on the right side of the tractor but during the 12 years 200s were made there were a couple of changes made. That is also true of what pedals were on a tractor and what they do. Roger
 

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Thanks for responding Ed,

If you notice closely, the brake 'bar' is not even attached, so that is not what is limiting the forward movement of the pedal.

Something (I don't know what) else is limiting the pedal from moving forward enough to engage the dog.
 

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Most operator manuals say to have the engine running when you push the clutch pedal down, so the variator operates properly. With the clutch pedal all the way down, the secondary belt should be at it smallest diameter in its grove on the variator. If it isn't the clutch pedal isn't all the way down, preventing the parking brake from working.
 

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Yep, once the engine was started the pedal went down farther and everything is now working as it should be, after a couple adjustments to the brake bar.

Thanks for your patience and advice Ed.

Rigged a plywood 'seat' to test it before wrestling the fender pan back on so as to have visual and easy adjustment access.
...so just for giggles...

 
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