216 Parking Brake

I decided to just get a new cylinder and just be done with it. JD wanted $263.00, but I found one at http://www.greenfarmparts.com/ for $243.00 inc. shipping and a new seat spring. My end links were bad too so getting the cylinder rebuilt would have only corrected part of the problem.

I changed the cylinder today and it took me about 2 hours. Half of that time was goofing around with metric and sae wrenches. I was also trying to figure out what a roll pin was doing in the old cylinder that the new cylinder didn't have. I finally determined that it must be there to keep the cylinder from turning. I was able to get the pin out and tap it into the new cylinder. The hardest part of the job was getting the old cylinder out because they use a Morse taper on both ends and you must use a pickle fork to get the end off the steering pivot plate. You must remove the tie rod to the left wheel and then turn the wheel as far right as possible in order to be able to get the pickle fork in there. The end that attaches to the axle can just be tapped out with a hammer. I’m not worried about boogering the threads because it’s being replaced anyway. There is very little clearance when trying to jockey the new cylinder in place. Replacing the cylinder obviously corrected the leak and the sloppy steering, but I’m still having a problem with hard steering. I think the steering valve may be going. Oh brother!!

I like the way the 425 AWS performs, but it’s been a real lemon since the day I got it. I think I may have dumped over a grand into it over the years and it just seems like there is no end to the things that go wrong with it. It has a carburetor problem too. If I wasn’t able to do the work myself, it would have driven me into the poorhouse by now.

You know, this is going to be really embarrassing for me to admit, but it at least proves that I am not perfect even tho everyone thinks I am!

After I changed the cylinder yesterday I checked the hydro fluid level (with the engine running)and it was right up there. I was surprised that it was after losing so much oil and putting in an empty cylinder. Well who am I to argue with the dipstick. Today I looked at the book and it didn't say anything about the engine running, but it did say to leave the dipstick cap rest on the tube when checking the fluid level. This time I checked it with the engine turned off and the dipstick came out dry. I couldn't believe it! I added about a pint of hygard and to my utter amazement it was still dry. I repeated this process over and over until I emptied almost a full gallon into the transaxle. I must have looked really stupid with my mouth hanging open and my chin on the driveway. I actually looked to see if the oil was running out somewhere. I finally got the level where it belongs and now my steering problem has disappeared. OH HAPPY DAYS!!!!!!!! I would still like to know why I got the false reading and this is not the only time it happened either.