216 wont start

5889 Views 45 Replies 12 Participants Last post by KB, Mar 21, 2015

cubby

Discussion Starter · Oct 12, 2012

Yesterday I was mowing and noticed that the alt light was on when the blades were engaged, wven when it was running wide-open. I put a new regulator in last December. What could be wrong with it now?

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Only really a couple of parts in the system. Basically the regulator and the stator. If the regulator is bad again I suspect some of the auxiliary pieces like wiring or ignition switch might be the problem. Roger

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cubby

Discussion Starter · #3 · Oct 13, 2012

Somehow I think it would be easier if it was the stator. I'd rather take half the engine apart than try to figure out the wiring. Guess I'd better check the output, then worry about it.

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cubby

Discussion Starter · #4 · Oct 15, 2012

Roger, I had to jump-start it today. Haven't had a chance to do anything else with it and really won't for a while. After I started it I tried the pto clutch. Still had the warning light on, but it would dim when I revved the engine. Then I switched on the lights, It killed the engine. Tried it again. Same thing, couldn't even keep it going by flipping them off when the engine faltered. It would re-start right away, tho. After a few minutes of running, I tried it again. Now, it'll run with the lights on and I can switch the pto on too. the dash light will come on when hit with the initial drag, then dim some and dim more when I rev it to wide open. Any ideas from this? Won't be doing much with it 'til I get the 300 finished, but i'd like to know where I should start. I DO have my trusty FOR SALE sign all warmed up!

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woodpecker41

· #5 · Oct 15, 2012

I would take every wire in the wire harness that is bolted on or plugged in and clean the corrosion off of them. If that fails then I would try a new battery. Roger

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cubby

Discussion Starter · #6 · Oct 27, 2012

Roger, So I guess the day I put the battery on the charger and it charged down to about 4amps and wouldn't go any further shoulda been a hint! I really don't want to have to tear into those wires, but I'd like to sell the thing and won't sell anything that I wouldn't want to keep for myself.

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woodpecker41

· #7 · Oct 27, 2012

In my experience a good battery will charge down to 2 amps or less. YMMV. Roger

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cubby

Discussion Starter · #8 · Oct 30, 2012

That's my usual experience and this automatic charger usually does a good job. The day after the first try at charging, it went down to below 2amps and the lil' green light on the charger came on like it's supposed to. The battery wasn't too good when I bought the tractor and I don't think the wiring has been helping. Jiggling the wires will get a stronger charge (dimmer alt light). Looks like I have some work ahead of me. When it runs, it runs like a dream, when it don't start, it's a super heavy duty door stop!

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jcogreen

· #9 · Feb 17, 2015

Ran after last snow fall headed for garage died and would not start. Changed plug coil points had no spark got spark still wont start.Has spark gas check ed valves flywheel key still not starting

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kilmer31

· #10 · Feb 17, 2015

John, did you run out of gas? Is there gas in the carb for sure? Just a thought. If I run my 210 out of gas it takes a lot of priming to get it up and running again.

Lee

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kilmer31

· #11 · Feb 17, 2015

John, check your plug to make sure you have fuel. Im sure you know this but what the hay!!!

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jcogreen

· #12 · Feb 17, 2015

Yes put fresh gas in to eliminate that chance. Do to quality of gas sometimes.

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jcogreen

· #13 · Feb 17, 2015

Also no bad noises when it shut down.Cranks over fine.Also checked voltage at coil and ignition.

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KB

· #14 · Feb 17, 2015

John, by asking about getting good fuel, Lee is referring to getting it into the carb. It can take a lot of cranking to get it from the tank to the carb.these fuel pumps can get very weak, but still work.

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