[machyy1]

This past spring I had the engine and carb both rebuilt, and I replaced the wiring, battery, points, coil and condenser. It was running just fine... until a few months ago while driving at low speed my 314 bumped into a tree... and died. I just got around to trying to get her running again today.

I found the points gap was pretty far off, so I readjusted to 0.020. I then checked the spark by holding the spark plug against the block, and it sparked nice and bright each rotation around. Made sure the spark plug gap was at 0.035 (it is a Champion RH10C)

I then disconnected the fuel line going into the carb, and it was putting out consistent fuel.

I then adjusted high and low speed settings on the carb back to factory initial settings.

Last I checked compression, which was 140psi, so good there.

Put it all back together, it won't start...

It turns over, but just doesn't fire. In about 30 attempts to start it, once it fired a few times, and then ran for about a minute. Then it stopped on its own, and I haven't been able to get it to fire since.

I pulled the spark plug back out, and it is rather blackened. It was also coated in fuel. So it seems I have compression, fuel, and spark, but it won't fire... I'm stumped

Any advice is greatly appreciated on what I should check next.

Thanks.
Mark

 

[Grant Baker]

Timing,anyway to adjust it?

 

[machyy1]

Hi Grant, setting the points gap should set the timing from what I understand, so that should be ok.

Went back and just double checked everything... and I don't have spark. I checked the points, and their gap is still correct (0.020). All the wires seems to have good connection points too.

Is it possible through all the trying to get it started I burned out the condensor, coil, or both?

 

[jdrye]

Mark I would try a new condensor. That was my problem once and it drove me nuts until I changed it. Once it was changed the 314 ran like a champ.

 

[machyy1]

Hi Justin, I just went out, bought a new condensor, installed it, and still no spark

Any other ideas?

 

[jdrye]

Check your spark plug wire is making good contact at the coil and make sure your wires going to the coil are good and tight. If none of that works I would then test the coil.

 

[vinnie110]

Time to get your meter out. Need constant 12.5 volts on + coil terminal. - coil terminal will measure 12.5 volts with points open and 0 volts with points closed.

 

[mkos1980]

I had the same problem on a kt17. The plug wires were not pushed into the coil far enough...

 

[KB]

was that compression reading from running it backwards? if its from spinning it the normal direction, that reading is over 2x anything I have ever seen, and sounds like the automatic compression release is not working

 

[machyy1]

The compression test was from it running forward (cranking with the meter in the sparkplug port). I know that's not the right way to do it, but it gives a reasonable check. Since the engine was rebuilt less than a year ago, I am not too worried on compression (new piston / rings / bored).

The problem with no spark is certainly what I need to track down... I'll get out the DMM and start checking voltages.

 

[woodpecker41]

Gap the spark plug down to .030 and try a H10C instead of a R resistor plug. Roger

 

[KB]

I understand where your at, but I typically see compression reading of 60-70 PSI, not 140.

Something is not right, on top of your spark issue

 

[mikeduwe]

Did you try turning the carb needles 1/2 turn either direction from what the manual said and seeing if it will fire?
I dont see spark plug on your list of new parts you bought, try a new one.

Might want to check the valve lash?

Also ,if you can get a timing light, then you can set the timing better, and know if the coil is firing when its cranking.


Did the rebuild happen when you owned it or the previous owner. "Rebuild" is a pretty loose term that can mean anything from a carb kit and spark plug job to a full blown overbore job. Kind of like "restoration"

 

[machyy1]

I owned it when the engine was rebuilt. New valves, valve seats lapped, cylinder bored, new piston / rings.

I'll see if I can borrow a timing light to check that.

 

[woodpecker41]

I was thinking you must have knocked something out of place when you bumped into the tree. Safety switch maybe. I also gave you bad advice and looked up the spark plug gap in my 1978 214 owners manual. That would be the same engine as is in your tractor The spark plug gap should be .025 not the not the .035 you are using or the .030 I recommended. Roger

 

[machyy1]

Hi Roger, if either safety switch wasn't working / connected, it wouldn't turn over I thought?

The 314 service manual shows the spark plug gap at 0.035, and the kohler k-321 service manual also shows the gap at 0.035.

 

[wmgeorge]

Timing would not change, nor would the carb get out of adjustment by hitting a tree. Double check your gas supply, dirt plugged up the filter, hose came off inside the tank, float stuck inside carb and etc. If you have to hook up an alternative gas tank and gravity feed.
It's got to be something simple.

 

[KB]

any chance that bump broke and old cam?

 

[machyy1]

Any idea how fast gas should be pumping into the carb? Meaning, if I disconnect the hose going into the carb, and have it pump into a container, how fast should it put out a cup worth?

 

[mikeduwe]

You may have sheered a flywheel key, check timing with an actual light.

If you have any concerns about fuel supply, run off a remote tank elevated above the carb inlet.

Crack the bowl screw on the bottom loose till fuel starts coming out then tighten, that way you know its not airlocked.