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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Am in the process of giving my 314 H2 capabilities. Bought used parts from a 317 on EBay. Have removed the old setup, installed the 317 valve and control handles. Started to, or should I say attempted to, install the lines from the valve to the front ports. Is there any way to accomplish this without removing the motor? Maneuvering the lines into the correct position looks at best extremely difficult.
If removing the motor is the only option, I’m hoping that I can just unbolt at the motor mounts, disconnect the revive shaft at the motor and lift it just enough to move the lines into position.

Any experienced based input appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Mike
 

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Mike, If your going to use hose to your new front outlets, you stand a fighting chance without removing motor. If you plan on steel lines, no way! Even with the motor out, it's gonna be tight getting to fittings, slipping lines/hoses into place. For the effort & time needed to remove engine, do it. It's just too tight/cramped in there and you'll be glad that you did. Bob
 

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I did not remove engine on my 1979 314 to install left front hydraulic tubes. I changed valve and installed independent brake assembly at the same time so having brake assembly removed may have given me some extra room. No engine removal is not necessary ... Gabby

Edit: I do not remember if I used the 317 supply and return lines to plumb the control valve. Control valve installation was the most difficult part to me. I was able to install all parts with no modifications to tractor frame.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for your input guys. Will reply in depth after I get back from my Grandson’s baseball game.
 

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I am cheering for your grandson's team. It is a higher priority.
 
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Hope your kids did better than mine. Both the boys baseball and girls softball had ruff weekends losing all games in the final inning. Bummer.

As for the steel lines I agree with Bob. If it were me in your situation I would investigate hoses. Bend those steel lines even a little and nothing lines up again. It can be very difficult and frustrating trying to align those fittings into either end. Then you're likely to have the steel tubes rubbing against the steel frame or something else and sooner or later a leak that is very difficult to repair. Even most of the lines Deere installed at the factory rub in one area or another. If that occurs, you'll be doing the job all over again.

And, at least to me, it's just not that big a deal removing the engine and doing it right. But that's me. You can take the opportunity to clean things up, touch up the paint and do all kinds of maintenance that you normally can't. Not to mention the knowledge gained as to what makes these things tick.

Seldom is the easiest way the best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the input guys. You were right Bob- lifting the motor up about 3” made a lot more room. Gabby- I’m certain not having the brake pedal shaft in would make installation of the rt. side lines much easier to install. one line has to go over the shaft, one underneath. I finally resorted to carefully bending one to go over the shaft and got it to fit.

I thought the left side would be easier. Not so fast Bucko. I’ve tried backing off the locknuts and turning the valve fittings get them to line up. NO luck. Seems that no matter how I turn the lines they are not oriented correctly to attach to the fittings. At 4:30 I decided it was a good time to call it a day and will continue tomorrow.

A few pics of what I did and where I am.

On a better note a guy texted me a few minutes ago and said he’d sell me a cab that came off a 300 for $100.
266076
266077
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
JetJoe- Sorry your kids had a few rough games.
Actually got to watch both grandkids Play today. The 6 yr old had his first T-ball game. The 9 yr old playing in the 3-5 grade division.

I’m tossing around a few ideas on getting the lines attached to the valve. Will go to the hardware store and see what they have for fittings. Another option is going to NAPA and have some short hoses made. At this point I’m all in on this project and just need to get it completed.
 

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JetJoe- Sorry your kids had a few rough games.
Actually got to watch both grandkids Play today. The 6 yr old had his first T-ball game. The 9 yr old playing in the 3-5 grade division.

I’m tossing around a few ideas on getting the lines attached to the valve. Will go to the hardware store and see what they have for fittings. Another option is going to NAPA and have some short hoses made. At this point I’m all in on this project and just need to get it completed.
I don't think you'll find those fittings at a hardware store. Perhaps a well stocked farm store or hydraulic shop. Even Deere dealers don't stock some of these. If you do need fittings, it will be a lesson you won't soon forget. The best advice I can give you is go to the "Surplus Store" web site. They have a nifty chart there for comparing what you have and what you need. Just download the page, print it and match them up. If your thinking hoses at all, you may as well have them made to replace the entire length.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't think you'll find those fittings at a hardware store. Perhaps a well stocked farm store or hydraulic shop. Even Deere dealers don't stock some of these. If you do need fittings, it will be a lesson you won't soon forget. The best advice I can give you is go to the "Surplus Store" web site. They have a nifty chart there for comparing what you have and what you need. Just download the page, print it and match them up. If your thinking hoses at all, you may as well have them made to replace the entire length.

Good luck!
I hear you there. I had to buy two small elbow fittings to attach the lines to the couplers. $37 for two. Yikes. As in any project, it starts out reasonable from a cost standpoint. Then all the extra small items start adding up. Suddenly a project that I thought would come in at $200 is at $300 and not finished yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
And NAPA coming in at $100. a hose around here
I think I’m going to end up ordering two 12” pieces of 1/4” hose as I cannot get the left side lines to align. I’ve tried everything I could think of with no luck.

I was on the Northern Tool Hydraulics website. Their prices look to be much better than having the lines made locally.
 

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Try the "Surplus Center" . They sell premade hoses at very reasonable prices. And they have just about every fitting.
 

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Mike, check farm supply stores also. My local Ag Coop (with Ace Hardware) has 24" of 1/4" hyd hose for $10. Take to Napa, buy 2 fittings from them, and they'll cut hose in half and crimp fittings for the price of the fittings...$10 ea (??) Bob
 

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Mike, check farm supply stores also. My local Ag Coop (with Ace Hardware) has 24" of 1/4" hyd hose for $10. Take to Napa, buy 2 fittings from them, and they'll cut hose in half and crimp fittings for the price of the fittings...$10 ea (??) Bob
Just need to be careful the new hose fitting match up to what Deere used on the H2 control. When I installed the 400 H3 on my 317, I had a hell of a time finding the adaptor to -5 JIC ports in the valve. (-5 being rare as hens teeth) I don't believe the 317 valve is like this, but be careful with the install. If things don't feel right, check closely to make sure the hose fitting matches the adaptor.

Not trying to confuse you Mike, but like I said above, hydraulic fittings are a pain sometimes. They all look alike but several differences. If you can't run the nut all the way to the seat, check closer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the input guys. I just ordered two 12” lines, two straight double male fittings and two 45 degree fittings from the Surplus Store. Shipping was a bit expensive but you can’t beat the prices. $37 shipped. based on the one time I had a 6” line made at NAPA for a Bolens, I couldn’t have one line made for that money.
I was concerned with how deep the straight DM would run into the female side so I ordered a 45 angle set as well. They were a very inexpensive so I figured why not?

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
This is another case of “well, it looked simple enough when I removed all the old parts”.:unsure:
 

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This was the first mechanical work I did on a vintage Deere tractor. Agree with you; it took me 3 days to install H2 and independent brakes. The worst part was I did not make sure the spools in the valve shifted as intended. They didn't. I removed the valve fixed the valve and reinstalled. Took a week to complete. Was really happy with the finished project. All I bought was the 317 parts. And a set of thin, long reach wrenches.
 
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