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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I just bought a 54 blade with hydraulic lift. The 314 doesn't have a "float" feature but was wondering if I leave the Rockshaft Cylinder "unlocked" will it act like a float feature? It seems like it does to some point...

Anyone have any thoughts....

Brian

(Message edited by dwzkd on December 12, 2005)
 

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Wow - You guys and this website are the best!!!

I never even noticed that on my 140 h1 I've been looking for an h3 lever setup so the blade could float on my concrete driveway.
Thanks for useful information!!! you probably saved me a boatload of cash and time changing that over to h3 (but who knows maybe I will anyways)

Thanks!
Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks, Took a look tonight and there is no pin in the pivot holes. i.e. cylinder is connected to one end of the pivot plates and the other end is connected to the frame on the blade. I guess it is in permanent float position eh?

Is that picture out of the manual for the 54? I'll have to get one.

Thanks,
Brian
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help....

Another question......

My Blade does not have the drilled pin installed at all. In the picture above, it appears that the rod end of the cylinder is "above" the "block" attached to the frame that the pivot plates attach to.....

On my tractor, the rod end is stuck behind the "block". I.e. it will "flow" very little because the rod end hits the back of the block when you blade down.... I wonder if this isn't right....

Anyone know?

thanks,
Brian
 

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Hi Brian. I wonder that since it doesn't have the pin at all, that is allowing the two pivoting plates that the cylinder hooks to to rotate back too far, giving you the condition that you have? You might have to pull the cylinder pin, move the plates back up to where they are shown in the picture above and then get the proper drilled pin or a suitable bolt to put in the "float" hole.

Kent
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks!

I did what you said Kent. Removed the cylinder pin & moved pivot plates up. Reinstalled cylinder pin and put a 3/8" threaded rod through the float whole to see how it works. Works Great.

Now off to get me a better pin to replace the threaded rod...

thanks again,
Brian
 

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Hello all,
I need some help to try and figure this one out. I've checked the PTO, brake, and seat switches and they all are depressed like they should be before you try to start the mower. I have cleaned the ignition switch prongs and the connector. I have noticed a buzz that I don't remember ever hearing before. When not in the seat with the park brake set and pto in the off position. When you turn key on one of the 3 little boxes that look like relays just below the battery on the engine side buzzes. Its the one in the middle. I have searched JD Parts but I don't know what they call it. This might be the problem. Thanks so much,
Dwayne
 

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Dwayne, give us the serial number of your tractor.
There are at least three configurations of wiring on the LT133. That you have three relays (that's what they are), not two, says something. Does the buzzing stop if you engage the PTO lever, and do you get it all the time, or just when trying to start?

Do you have a multimeter available?

I can look at the diagrams later this evening and come up with some suggestions.

Hank
 

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Hank,
Serial # MOL155B144781. When I'm setting in the seat the middle relay doesn't buzz, its only when I raise up off the seat does it buzz with the key in the run position. PTO lever doesn't affect buzz when engaged or disengaged. Yes I do have a multimeter. I was reminded by dear better half that I have a parts LT155 setting just waiting for parts to be robbed. So I changed the relay out but still have the same problem. Won't start and relay buzzes. I really appreciate your help on this Hank. Thanks, Dwayne
 

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OK Dwayne, moving right along. Your serial number and the fact that you've got three relays (not two or four) suggests that you've got a really late tractor. It should have a 15 amp charging circuit (i.e., there is a voltage regulator on the flywheel shroud) and a four-position ignition switch (off, run without headlights, run with headlights, start). Starting serial is 125000, running through end of production.

By the way, I misread your model number, but LT133 and LT155 wiring and parts are identical.

The first item of business is to say that you do not need to be sitting on the seat to crank and run the tractor. With the PTO disengaged and the brake latched down (parking brake), you should be able to start and run the engine. However, it sounds to me as though the relay that is buzzing is the seat relay, which needs to be closed only if the brake is released. PTO engaged will prevent cranking, but no relays are involved.

The little boxes that "look like relays" are SPDT relays and are all identical. The seat switch on your tractor differs from all earlier configurations in that it is DPST rather than SPST, with four terminals instead of two.

The service manual for these tractors is TM1695, and you'll need a copy (obtainable from Deere, see the FAQ).

I can't quite figure what would make the seat relay buzz, except for low battery voltage. Check that first. In particular, check that the cable connections at the battery are clean, then check voltage between the positive cable (at the starter relay) and both engine and frame grounds.
Since you've got switched headlights, turn them on to load the primary circuit when making these checks.

With the PTO disengaged and the brake latched down, you should hear a very definite click from the shunt relay when you turn the ignition to either run position. That is the relay with a yellow and black coil power, and two brown wires running to the engine. Check voltage between the yellow and black if you don't hear the click, and have good voltage in the primary circuit.

Hank
 

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Hank, I had 12.79 volts on the battery last night. Connections at battery are clean. I'll have to check others after I get home from work tonight. Looked online for a PDF of TM1695 and there is one available, just don't know how trustworthy that site is. May just pick one up from Deere. Thanks, Dwayne
 

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Hank, Finally made it out to the shop this morning. I've checked on a manual but none are in stock locally. Voltage is good 12.71 volts on battery, same on positive cable at starter relay to engine and frame. Lights on showed 12.07 volts on battery and starter relay to engine and frame.

With PTO disengaged and brake set when I turn ign on i do not hear a click. On the engine wires they are red, white, and 2 brown. With key in run position I checked voltage across all 4 wires but shows no voltage.

Since I don't hear a click when I turn key to run it sounds to me like the shunt relay might be bad. If I understand you correctly. Or could it be the starter relay. From what I have checked on JD Parts it looks like the relays are all the same. I think I'll change out the shunt relay first and then maybe try the starter relay next.
What do you think?
Thanks, Dwayne
 
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