[alleycat]

My 316 with Onan P218G engine was purchased new in 1987. Replaced battery with 220 cca automotive type years ago. Everything was fine until recently. Now the charge indicator light comes on when the pto is engaged. It will not go out again until the battery is charged for a minute or so. Then the light stays off until the PTO is switched on and the cycle repeats.
Any ideas?

 

[joe_jones]

Dave,

The "charge indicator light" can be sort of misleading. It indicates the state of the battery charge. But it does not indicate if the battery is “charging.” The manual states, but I don’t remember the exact voltage, but the light come on when the battery voltage drops below a certain point. Like 12.8 volts (or something like that.) Then the light turns off when the battery has reached the correct charge level.

Your statement would indicate that the PTO is using more current than the system can provide. Once it turned off, the system brings the battery back up to the voltage required to turn off the light.

I’d say your problem is not the charge indicator, but either the PTO is wearing out and using more voltage than it should, or the voltage regulator/generator is misbehaving.

I’m sure someone will step in and give you a more detailed explanation and a way to track down the problem.

Good luck,
Joe

 

[Brad_ruch]

dave I've had a simialar problem before.but mine would stay on no matter if the pto was on or not.and it was the voltage regulator.so I'm betting your pto is drawing more juice that it should.

 

[Jd318_mazz]

David - I think like Joe stated, your PTO is the issue. Could be the air gap is too wide, but I rather doubt that alone would cause the battery indicator to light. More than likely, the field coil in the PTO clutch is weak and pulling too many amps, which is drawing too much from the electrical system. - Dave

 

[alleycat]

Thanks to all for your replies. No email notification of a reply was received, so did not check back til now.
Y'all confirmed my thought that the PTO might be the problem. The lead wire on the original unit broke off even with th epoxy, so I bought a used one off eBay. The indicator light issue began immediately after the eBay unit was installed, but since I had done some other electrical work, I did not suspect the PTO at first. Can anyone tell me how to check for the correct current draw?I have a meter with a clamp on amp measuring attachment, but don't know how much draw is normal.

 

[chuckv]

David,

You can just measure the resistance of the PTO coil -- should be in the 3.5 to 4.7 ohm range if it is not partially internally shorted.

Chuck

 

[joe_jones]

David,

I've sent you a PDF file explained how to check your electrical PTO.

Let us know how you came out.

Joe

 

[alleycat]

Thanks Joe and Chuck. I checked the PTO coil resistance and it is OK. Also checked current draw, and it was only 2.8 Amps. The pto holds good so it must be OK. Joe, the figures you sent are for a Skag clutch. There may be some difference in specs between MFG'rs. I forget the name of mine, just remember it was a Japanese company.
Strange as it may seem, after doing all the testing and nothing more, the problem went away. When I started the tractor, the charge light did not come on. I made a few laps around the yard with the PTO engaged, and the light only came on when I throttled the engine back to idle.
Maybe poking the meter probes into the connectors cleaned up some oxidation. I have no other explanation.

 

[alleycat]

Just to update this post, the fix didn't hold for long. The tractor sat idle for a few days and then when started, the charge light came on again without the PTO being engaged. usually it would stay off until the pto switch was thrown, and then it would remain on. I'm beginning to think I have a battery drain issue here. Something is leaking to ground a little bit and dropping my battery voltage. I bet if the machine sits for a week the battery will be dead.

 

[hansonmo]

Gentlemen,

My dad is looking at buying a '92 JD 265 with a 48" deck and a pair of cast wheel weights. He currently has a GT262 that he bought new in the early nineties. He mows about 3 acres and also has a newer JD 235 that is his primary mower but currently uses the 262 when my mom helps him cut or if I am around to help. Am I right in thinking that the 265 is the same as the 262 except for the hydro trans and different lift lever? He has a bagger for the 262 so I'm assuming that will also fit on the 265 right?

The 265 looks like it is in great shape and is said to have only mowed a small lot and has been serviced regularly. This is not my area of expertise, (all my machines are '72 and older), so I was looking for some input from the community here at WFM. For further thought he can get it for $750. Thoughts?

 

[T-Mo]

Morgan,
The 265s are nice mowers, and handle snow duty okay. They're not as heavy duty as the older tractors, but are pretty nice machines. The 265 is an older machine than the GT262, but some attachments may interchange. Go to our compatibility charts in our Technical FAQ section and you can see what will interchange, as far as the attachments are concerned.

 

[hansonmo]

Terry,

Thanks for the input. The 265 will be used only for mowing duty so the only attachment of concern is the powerflow bagger he currently has on his 262. Can he just rob the double pulley off the 262 deck and put it on the 265? Both tractors have a 48" deck.

In this case I think it being an older machine is better as the 265 is built better than the 262. My dad has had some issues with the stamped front axle on the 262 where the front axle on the 265 is cast. He picked it up yesterday and cosmetically it looks great and only has 680 hours on a good running Kawasaki. I know he'll enjoy the hydro over the gear drive as well.