[k91]

My 316 was shutting off after about 30 minutes of mowing. So I assumed it was the coil which was the old style and I assumed original for the machine. Install the new coil and test run and after about 10 minutes it shuts down. Look at everything and I'm getting 12v to the coil and it restarts and finishes my yard after about 45 minutes more. Park it and wonder is it fixed or not.

Well its not. It shut off today after about 15 minutes. I checked and I'm getting 12v to the coil and it cranks no problem. I can engage the PTO but do not hear it clunking like the magnets are engaging. I let it sit for about 20 minutes and it restarted for a little bit then shut off again. Any ideas? I need to mow and push mowing the yard isn't that much fun

 

[k91]

Went out this morning and it started right up. So it still seems like something is failing when it gets hot. The condensor wouldn't do that would it? It almost has to be the ignition module I'm guessing. Any thoughts before I spend another $200 on parts.

 

[tommyhawk]

Don't know for sure it's your problem, but that's a classic symptom for a bad condenser. A cracked reluctor ring (behind the flywheel with the module) is another I've heard about but not experienced. I'd sure try the condenser first-it's easier and cheaper!
Wouldn't hurt to check the air gap on the clutch. It may have nothing to do with the problem, but good maintenance procedure.

tommyhawk

 

[tim_jd216]

I would try replacing the condenser first.

 

[k91]

Well I hope you guys are right. I drove to the next closest JD dealer that had condensors in stock and picked one up. I'll let you know my results.

 

[k91]

I installed the new condensor last night and went for a test run. After 20 minutes she shut off again. I'm starting to get angry with this stupid thing.

 

[k91]

Is there any way to test the module? Or does someone want to trade a tractor that runs?

 

[Tractorman100]

I'm going to piggy back onto your thread, Keith. My 318 is doing the exact same thing. Replaced coil and condensor (electronic ignition), mowed in cool weather (low 70's) no problem. Next time it's 92 and it dies after 10-15 minutes. No spark. After an hour or so, it runs for 10 more before dying. That $175 module is tempting.

 

[chuckv]

Keith and Stacey,

When the motor stops after a period of work in the warm weather and cannot be restarted, does it even crank with the starter motor? If yes, then it likely is not the fuses or the circuit breaker. Keith established the presence of 12 v but just checking for Stacey as well...

The module and the 'rotor' should be changed at the same time, and you can get them from Cummins/Onan for less than the Deere price. Here is a shot of the new part from Cummins versus the old one and the box the part came in:

Here is a shot of the module behind the stator on the P218 engine -- you will have to pull the engine and take off the flywheel to access these parts.

Good luck...

Chuck

 

[Tractorman100]

Mine cranks and has correct voltage at coil.
Thanks, Chuck

 

[k91]

Chuck it sounds like you are exactly where I am at

It did motivate me to get my backup running again so I could finish mowing but I'd rather have the hydro in the 316 back. Oh well guess I'll just have to spend the money and replace the module, rotor and might as well do the seal while I'm there.

 

[Tractorman100]

Ok, heres more info. When it's cold, I checked voltage with the key on at the coil posts. Both read 12=- volts. Turn the motor by hand and the voltage drops on both down to .8-.9 and then comes back up on rotation. Took it out and ran it till it stopped (not long), checked again with the key on and 12 volts, no drop out. Waited a minute or so and checked again, rotation the motor by hand, saw the drop in voltage, cranked it and it started up, ran a minute then quit. Same readings as before. So, I am definatly replacing the ignition module and rotor, right?

 

[chuckv]

Stacey,

Your readings are pretty definitive on the module being bad at elevated temperatures...

Sorry it was not something simpler/less expensive to replace.

Chuck

 

[Tractorman100]

Replaced the module and rotor.
EVERYTHING IS GOOD!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[k91]

Glad to hear it Stacey! I need to get motivated and fix mine.

 

[dclaykelly]

I need to find out if you fixed your problem Keith.....ignition module and rotor? I was looking for answers to my recent problem, although I thought it was because of all of the recent rain, causing the grass to be exceptionally high and wet. But here goes-just this past weekend, on three occasions, she starts right up, good and strong, take a slow stroll, go to WOT, pto's engaged, run for either 30 or 40 minutes in very moderate weather, then she starts to sound like it's got a hot 'miss', the pto light shuts off, pto shuts down, and she sputters, so I shut it down. It takes about an hour for an easy start. Needless to say, I just replaced the battery, stator, coil, switches, regulator, this spring. I did neglect the module and rotor. Is this sounding about right? BUT, with all of the thick, wet grass, is the engine getting really hot(belly pan debris, heavy spindle load, etc) or am I looking into a mechanical failure?

 

[chuckv]

Don,

The ignition module and rotor can cause the miss and the engine stall, but not the PTO shutting off. Sounds more like a TDCM issue which may be caused by a poor engine ground at X27 or at the TDCM itself at X22 pin 10. It might also be a faulty F2 fuse/fuse holder or an intermittent seat switch... On rare occasions the TDCM itself fails, but it is an expensive and non-returnable part, so check everything else first.

If everything electrical shuts down when this symptom appears, it might also be due to a faulty F3 25 amp circuit breaker or its wiring. If this symptom never shows up without the PTO being used for the 20 minute period, I would definitely verify that the PTO coil has a resistance of at least 3.5 ohms, otherwise it might be pulling extra current and causing the circuit breaker to trip. The F1 fuse (20 amp) should theoretically blow first, but the circuit breaker might be aged enough to have a reduced trip current... Check all your fuse holders for signs of getting hot, and if the ignition switch was one of those you replaced in the spring, were the mating connections sound and not overheated/corroded?

Hope this is of some help...let us know what you find.

Chuck

 

[dclaykelly]

Well Chuck,
First, thanks for all of your help. None of the wiring gets hot and all of the fuses and switches are in check. Here's what's weird that I did find. The pulley portion of the electric pto was very difficult to turn, VERY difficult. So, in the midst of cleaning and degreasing, I pulled the front and middle portion of the pto off, threw on some dry moly lube, re-installed, and backed the air gap off to .025". I didn't get a chance to mow afterward, but after cleaning out the clumpy clippings with the pressure washer, drying, and going for a ride, the pto sounds and acts well. So, for now, until I can get the last 1/2 acre done, I'll keep you posted.

 

[chuckv]

Don,

The PTO is a combined electric clutch and brake...it is designed to stop the implement in as short a time as possible when the switch is turned off. This is primarily for mowing deck safety reasons.

The gap on the PTO should be set to 0.018 inches per the manual.

Chuck

 

[k91]

Don don't know if it helps you or not but mine would continue to crank fine even after loosing spark. It would have spark again when it cooled down.