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I think I have a pair of "vintage" one's. I should put 'em up for auction... 馃お

Another nice thing about the new rubber ones is that you can install them with out removing the connector.
 

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I am intimitely familiar with replacing pins/sockets in connectors, almost all connectors are repairable. You can buy the individual pins/sockets from electrical supply places such as Digi-Key or Mouser. The big trick is learning how to release the pin in the housing.
The Delfi pins used on these tractors are easy compared to most. Just about every brand and style of connector has its own pin extractors. I have a drawer full of them and still run into something different with just about everything I fiddle with. A particular auto-pilot system that was very popular actually had two connectors that had 36 pins each, all connected to a 3" instrument. The male and females each required separate extractors and they loomed together in a very short harness under the instrument panel. Now, somebody decided they wanted that instrument (stolen) and cut the harness right next to the instrument. Over 70 wires. They couldn't figure out how to release the connector I guess. I spent over a month upside down under that panel repairing that harness and installing those barrel pins.

I only mentioned eBay because it's familiar to most. And others to read these posts and I always try to keep that in mind. But, you're right, there are better places, most much cheaper than eBay or Deere. The trick for most is figuring out the brand and the terminology used. I just purchased every Aptiv pin and housings for the entire 400 for less money than eBay or Deere wanted for just the 5 pin key switch. As every connector in both of the harnesses I have for the 420 are corroded but the wire is fine, I decided to just re-pin the harness. Good as new.

Another hint about the releasing the spade flat terminals in our tractors is to push the wire into the connector body while releasing the locking tab. If the wires have been pulled excessively when the connectors are mated, the locking tab tends to dig into the rather soft plastic body making them difficult to release. And, somtimes so tight you have to destroy the pin to get it out.

I have always enjoyed working with electrical systems. You wouldn't beleive what I did with my plain Jane F-150 when I installed the complete fancy dash from a wrecked Platinum. Sync, navingation, climate control, trailer assist, hill assist, cruise assisst, auto headllight dimming, fancy Platinnum cluster. The whole nine yards! Took me two days, it was our only vehicle and the wife thought I had gone completely mad. The scary part was re-programming all of those computers to make it think it was a Platinum. I will say, I breathed a sigh of relief when it all worked. The online forums are really a blessing for those of us who can't keep our hands off things. :)
 
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I think I have a pair of "vintage" one's. I should put 'em up for auction... 馃お

Another nice thing about the new rubber ones is that you can install them with out removing the connector.
Don't put them on eBay. You'll get half of what they sell for and the buyer will pay double for them. Best bet. Sell them here. Just let us know when you post it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I have a 3D printer and I just learned there is a new filament that allows us to print flexible gaskets, much like the rubber plug that is used for the hyd port. So, in theory, I could 'print' my own plugs (and maybe this filament comes in different colors?) and attach chain thereby making brand new vintage plugs and sell them here to finance my addiction?
 

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I have a 3D printer and I just learned there is a new filament that allows us to print flexible gaskets, much like the rubber plug that is used for the hyd port. So, in theory, I could 'print' my own plugs (and maybe this filament comes in different colors?) and attach chain thereby making brand new vintage plugs and sell them here to finance my addiction?
You're worse than I am. Always looking for a different way to do things. I haven't gotten into the 3D thing yet but it does have possibilities for entertainment.

The thing I don't like about these original chain-type plugs is they always seem to get between the frames of the front attach mounts. I like to disconnect the hoses when I'm not using them and it seems I always end up removing the thing to get at the plugs. Maybe I should just repair the leaky quick connect. It drips a few drops a day. Just enough to make a mess when you walk in the puddle of oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
My most favorite electrical connector brand is Deutsch, they are easy to work on, come in many configurations and many are sealed from moisture. There is also a knock-off brand of them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Yeah Joe, having the 3D printer opens you up to all sorts of creativity options.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I looked for chain like that used on the vintage port plugs, found some at Grainger and it is called 'Sash Chain'. I have removed sash weights from old house windows but they had rope instead of chain.

Auto part Art Metal Fashion accessory Body jewelry
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
No I have not. I just thought the chain looked unique so I was looking for what it was called. It's hard ti find stuff online if you don't know what it is called. I do not have TSC or Rural King around me. I have Farm and Fleet and a good old harware store called Nicholson's, been there forever. They have a sister store Nicholson Lawn and Garden that has a lot of good cool stuff, I picked up a new ignition switch there yesterday. They sharpen saw chains also, seems to be harder to find that sort of service anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I had to replace the ignition switch so I went to my local garden parts store and gave the guy my old switch (one of the contacts had fallen off, that's how bad it was) he went to the back room and returned with an Oregon # 33-397. The connector was also falling apart and I did not have another one so I replaced the Delphi connect with normal push-on lugs. I documented their positions complete with a picture to make sure I got it right. I hooked up all the wires, then reinstalled the battery and nothing when I switched the key on. Odd said I. I had not yet mounted the switch in the panel when I noticed that the mounting shaft appeared bigger than my old one. Odd I said again. So I took the switch out, grabbed my meter, pulled up a 300 wiring diagram and started to ohm-out the switch. It is different than what I needed, the only thing that was correct was that it fit the 5-pin Delphi connector. On the new switch the contact that carried the alternator was actually hooked to the switch case grounding it out. I have a 110 parts tractor so I just went and pulled that switch, cleaned it up, ohmed it out and it functions as I would expect. I shot some contact cleaner in it, plugged it in, flipped the switch and she turned over. Much better! The guy I bought it from said it had a charging problem, he would have to jump it to start it. When I was documenting the original wiring it looked like the Green Wire from the alternator had been swapped with the Yellow wire that goes to Accessories. This might explain why it was not charging, I have not run it yet to see if the charging works. It is always an adventure with these pups.
 
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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Good news, I just went back out for more play and fired up the beast and she sounded better, as in less-noisy than the other day. I checked charging voltage and it was 13.6 at maybe 1200 rpm so I am happy with that. So then being brave I unscrewed the Hydro release valve and moved the super-sloppy drive lever and she went forward and backwards. Woah! I need to get it outside and squirt the front with Simple Green and power-wash all the crude off. Hopefully Friday will be nice enough for that.
 

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OK, I have to ask? Why did you separate out the switch on closed frame tractors? They're all virtually the same with the only difference being the type of ignition. Just curious.

A note about those connector "repair kits". Those offered with wires are basically a new connector with wire leads already installed saving you the trouble of repinning the wire. But you end up with yet another butt splice in each wire. So now you have two questionable connections in an already troublesome circuit. I have found these pins on eBay (I know) for a reasonable price. I would recommend buying and repinning the existing wires over butt splices which can only lead to more problems in the future.


or search "Aptiv Delfi flat"
Very true I didn't think about the extra butt connectors.
My plug is melted and I took someone's advice on MTF as to the wiring kit. I'll solder and shrink-tube the new connections.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I think solder is a bad idea, it creates an inflexible joint so now the wire will break where it meets the solder. Best bet is to replace the melted connector itself. If you choose to use a butt-splice then use heat shrink to seal it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Good advice! They are harder to find than your standard insulated variety.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I learned a lesson when looking for a new ignition switch - check your local dealer first, especially if your dealer is right down the street which mine is. I just looked up the switch on greenpartstore and it is in stock for $15, I paid $20 at the garden parts store and ended up with the wrong switch to boot! Lesson learned.....now just have to remember that lesson.
 
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I used to soldier everything electrical and it worked well. I stopped though when I found out it was against code in the marine industry. Reasoning was if a wire got hit it could melt the soldier and lose continuity and might disable something. Now I use crimp connectors with marine shrink tubing
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
MY ignition switch was wired different from what the wiring diagram shows. These being 'older' machines it is hard to tell what they have been through with the previous owners. The first picture below is the 300 wiring diagram, I would expect the 316 to be the same. The picture below is modified to show where the wires actually went. The green wire from the alternator showed insulation pulled back from the ignition switch terminal by about 1/4 inch, that pull back possible caused by a hot connection at that point. Was this due to it being in the wrong spot? There may be a reason why the switch disconnects the alternator during the Start cycle? The Yellow light switch wire may have been moved so they could use lights with the key in the Off position?

Product Schematic Font Parallel Engineering


Handwriting Font Parallel Engineering Drawing
 
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