Yeah that sounds like a great way to keep the wires and routing downsized and less cluttered. If anyone finds it difficult to find uninsulated butt connectors then you can always remove the insulation as an alternative.Use an uninsulated butt connector with heat shrink.
You know, this just gave me an idea. If the machine has an hour meter, it might be beneficial to have the lights wired this way. Makes it possible to use the lights with out putting time on the hour meter.MY ignition switch was wired different from what the wiring diagram shows. These being 'older' machines it is hard to tell what they have been through with the previous owners. The first picture below is the 300 wiring diagram, I would expect the 316 to be the same. The picture below is modified to show where the wires actually went. The green wire from the alternator showed insulation pulled back from the ignition switch terminal by about 1/4 inch, that pull back possible caused by a hot connection at that point. Was this due to it being in the wrong spot? There may be a reason why the switch disconnects the alternator during the Start cycle? The Yellow light switch wire may have been moved so they could use lights with the key in the Off position?
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