After retiring the truck-mounted snow removal equipment, the John Deere machines(s) have had to step up to the task of snow removal and snow blowing for our various homes and properties. That said, having a face full of snow when the wind shifts direction has proven to be quite unpleasant. Therefore, I decided that the only reasonable solution was to find a cab.
I've been watching the local craigslist, and internet, then happened to come across this from a fellow WFM member (thanks John!). He brought it down to the Blunier Plow Day this past weekend.
As you can see, this doesn't appear to be the later model 300 series cab, but does have a recess at the rear for the fuel filler neck, so perhaps it is a JD14X with modifications for an early 300? The model sticker is missing, so I'm not quite sure. I'm also not sure it matters to me given having a welder and being able to make changes....
It also has these neat internal hinges with integrated door travel limiting feature!
My plan is to fabricate the required mounting and get it situated on the tractor for this year (given the late start I'm getting this fall). Eventually, I will remove all glass/plexi and blast, repair and repaint. I'm also going to insulate and sound-dampen the heck out of this thing to try to make it manageable and at least a bit quiet inside...
Slow progress, I need to take a day off work to get some time to build the mounts....
I picked up the vibration mounts and have an old switch box to use for electrical accessories:
I removed the screws holding the roof on, partly to investigate how the cab is held together. 10 bolts and the roof lifts off. It's quite rusty and I'm going to clean it up to paint and insulate.
The front and rear panels simply bolt onto the 1" square tube frame, this will make cleaning up and repainting much easier. Also, the tube is open on the ends, which will make routing the wiring harness MUCH easier. I'm also building a hardware list, so that I can replace all with stainless to hopefully prolong its life and improve assembly/disassembly in the future.
John, Fehr Cab Interiors is only about an hour from me, they have a lot of acoustic foam with perforated vinyl over it. I want to use this for the ceiling and lower rear panel, and the insulated floor mat for the fender pan. If I find a spare fender pan, I'll permanently adhere the floor mat to it, as well as undercoat the bottom side.
Here's the material I'm looking at: http://www.fehrcab.com/RollAdhesive.asp
please don't insulate the fender pan I bought a 400 earlier this summer that had a rotted out fender pan where the prior owner had foam rubber filling the gaps to keep snow out. this only held the salt and snow and ate right through them.
Dustin, I can appreciate your concern, however there are both multiple ways to approach this situation, as well as to the noise/thermal reduction/mitigation issue.
The concern of trapped moisture is valid, though proper installation of the insulating material would eliminate the possibility of corrosion on the topside of the fenderpan. A product like FatMat or DynaMat as a base material should provide a tight enough bond to the fenderpan to accomplish this. A good automotive/commercial grade of undercoating or even epoxy type liner applied to the bottom side would also encapsulate the fender deck and also reduce noise transfer from the frame and engine of the machine.
While it's not actually attached to anything in this picture, it fits with minimal issue. I do have a bit of interference with the dual brake pedals (which is not unheard of). I'm going to trim the pedal/pad to give myself an extra 1" or so.
Overall, I'm pleased with the fit, and can now start working on the front and rear mounting brackets. The larger rear brackets are bulky and won't fit well around my three point hitch, so I'm going to have to modify them, likely either trim them up a few inches to also improve the clearance to the fender pan, or remove them entirely in favor of a different mounting method behind the seat using the fender pan bolts/supports. I'd really like to build a rear support that would allow the cab to tilt backwards onto a cart or for easier removal.
Next, I set to work on building mounting brackets for this thing. I finished the front, but still need to build the rear. I also went for a test drive and hooked up the snowblower.
After riding around in this rattle trap for a few minutes, I'm convinced that the roof needs fatmat/dynamat as well as the foam insulation. In fact, I want to dynamat the doors and rear cab panel too. Wowsers it's loud.
This cab did not come with the front filler panels either, so I worked on cardboard templates. The front will be 0.220" plexiglass, the the bottom will be sheet metal. I have some heavy rubber mat that I'll cut and install over the top as the floor mat and help add additional seal and sound dampening.
Dave, I'm not sure exactly. With the roof and doors removed, two of us were able to lift it onto the tractor with relative ease. Once dressed, I would bet it weighs about 200#, but I'll try to weigh it when it comes back off in the spring.
Ben, The deluxe seat suspension? That was purchased from Member here Matt Harbert (MattH) when he and Colin were manufacturing them. It's a bit too tall for use with the Cozy Cab, so I'm reverting back to the "u-spring" mounts for winter time.
Since my last update, I've gotten things pretty much buttoned up for this winter.
Front filler panels cut and installed as well as the lower floor panels. They are thin sheet metal which is a bit flimsy, but I think it will work for me, since its not really needed to be structural.
Also mounted the wiper motor and arm, then made a little shelf for the top of the cab to hold switches and some electronics.
Then cut some heavy rubber mat to act as a floor mat/fender pan liner.
Moved the tractor back out of the garage to the shed - I enjoy getting into a warm truck in the morning, and the tractor can handle living back in the 'stable'. The lights need to be aimed/adjusted, but I think they work quite well.
Joe, the tires are 26x12-12 Carlisle Tru Powers mounted on wheels from a 455.
Shady, embarrassingly enough, I did do anything with the rear mounts. I simply slit some rubber fuel line and slipped it over th cab mount to protect it from rubbing paint off the fenderpan. I'll build a better rear mount either this winter (since it's hardly a winter), or else in the spring. I'll duplicate the factory mount as much as possible, but will need to make some design changes to accommodate the different rear attachments I have like the 3-point, tiller, e-z vac, and hitch.
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