Hi. I'm looking for some advise on replacing or rebuilding the drive shaft in my 317. the yokes on the engine end are worn and need replace if I was to rebuild it. I have seen some post about rebuilding a 400 drive shaft but haven't found any parts or parts list for the 317. Any help or advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks Ross
317 drive shaft
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Joined
·
235 Posts
You can get a new one from your local John Deere dealer for 2 cents a day for the next 30 years. Part number AM37865 for $238.20 It is a better design than the original and should last longer. Or you can hunt for the parts to build your own.
Later,
Justin
Later,
Justin
Joined
·
1,507 Posts
Ross,
Two options, Get one from Deere that is greasable for 200+ or, the auction site has some that are 30-40 years old, non greasable and only in marginally better shape than the one you have........
No one likes eating the 200 but, if your ends are egged out it is not repairable like that.
Dom
Two options, Get one from Deere that is greasable for 200+ or, the auction site has some that are 30-40 years old, non greasable and only in marginally better shape than the one you have........
No one likes eating the 200 but, if your ends are egged out it is not repairable like that.
Dom
Joined
·
5,085 Posts
not positive on 317 drive shaft but maybe these could help
for 150.00 you can make one possibly
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/17/273314.html?1396560539
or rebuild it maybe
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/17/280971.html?1396612200
for 150.00 you can make one possibly
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/17/273314.html?1396560539
or rebuild it maybe
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/17/280971.html?1396612200
Ross, in addition to acquiring a new or rebuilt drive shaft, I'd like to pass on an observation from John Lang (pretty sure it was him) from many years ago.
Inspect the stub shaft that bolts to the engine. Make sure it is still round and not under .999" in diameter. Bad u-joints can cause a lot of wear on that shaft. The u-joint bore is a snug slip fit at the front to the engine drive shaft, as well as the key. This is to allow slight fore and aft movement of the u-jointed shaft due to frame flex, engine torque, etc.
On my original shaft as well as the old style replacements, the u-jointed shaft did not reach far enough to engage the full length of the key.
The bigger problem is that makes less than a 1-1 length to diameter ratio of shaft support. In plain English, the 1.00" nominal shaft should be in the bore at least 1.00" deep.
The new shaft with the grease fittings is the same length as the old shaft. To make the u-jointed shaft locate farther onto the engine drive shaft, I made a spacer that locates between the flywheel and the shaft using longer bolts. There may be longer engine drive shafts, or spacers available some where to work with the repower engines (Kohler). Hopefully someone on here can provide that info.
Any spacer added must be precision made to pilot to the flywheel and shaft and symmetrical to assure balance.
For what it's worth, my 317 is running the KT17 series I engine. I made the spacer about .400" thick to allow more shaft engagement without risking bottoming out on the flywheel shaft in use. If you can get a new u-jointed shaft made complete, you have the option of having it made longer overall if needed for your tractor.
Some photos that might help with this long winded post.
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
tommyhawk
Inspect the stub shaft that bolts to the engine. Make sure it is still round and not under .999" in diameter. Bad u-joints can cause a lot of wear on that shaft. The u-joint bore is a snug slip fit at the front to the engine drive shaft, as well as the key. This is to allow slight fore and aft movement of the u-jointed shaft due to frame flex, engine torque, etc.
On my original shaft as well as the old style replacements, the u-jointed shaft did not reach far enough to engage the full length of the key.
The bigger problem is that makes less than a 1-1 length to diameter ratio of shaft support. In plain English, the 1.00" nominal shaft should be in the bore at least 1.00" deep.
The new shaft with the grease fittings is the same length as the old shaft. To make the u-jointed shaft locate farther onto the engine drive shaft, I made a spacer that locates between the flywheel and the shaft using longer bolts. There may be longer engine drive shafts, or spacers available some where to work with the repower engines (Kohler). Hopefully someone on here can provide that info.
Any spacer added must be precision made to pilot to the flywheel and shaft and symmetrical to assure balance.
For what it's worth, my 317 is running the KT17 series I engine. I made the spacer about .400" thick to allow more shaft engagement without risking bottoming out on the flywheel shaft in use. If you can get a new u-jointed shaft made complete, you have the option of having it made longer overall if needed for your tractor.
Some photos that might help with this long winded post.
tommyhawk
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
