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During the reassembly process of my winter 317 restoration project I am debating how to fasten the new engine mounts (or rubber isolators) to the frame. From the factory they are riveted. I happened to have the proper size pop rivets on hand so I installed them with a pop rivet gun and they are nice and tight to the frame. However, I went and looked at my spare chassis with the original engine mounts from the factory and those rivets are steel. This makes me worry that aluminum pop rivets will vibrate loose or break at some point. I've seen other discussions about people using proper size bolts with lock nuts and threadlocker in place of rivets. What is the consensus of this group?

Here is a photo of the new mount currently installed with rivets....

264630
 

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JD 110 1964, 1966,1967,JD112 1967 with tiller, 1974 electric lift with tiller,jd 208 1977
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I have used the bolts that come with the new isolators on several occasions.
If your going to use it hard and put it to work they may work loose being aluminum but
even the original steel ones do that.
I think its preference. Your doing a restoration that looks like it will be done very well and you want to keep it looking all original then leave it.
Amazing how expensive those things are .
 

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The rubber isolators take up most of the vibration, plus the 2 cylinder engines really don't vibrate that much. The rivets are in, leave them there! If later they do come loose or break, then replace with bolts as needed. Bob
 

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I used aluminum pop rivets to attach recoil pull on a JS63 walk behind. Mistake. They only lasted about year and a half. Used bolts then advertised it for sale and it sold immediately. Second mistake.
 
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1989 318
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They say we learn from our mistakes, we should be pretty darn smart by now!
 
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