[Mike_U]

With your spec number of 24301, it looks like you have the improved Kohler engine.

 

[andrewgoingmailcom]

With your spec number of 24301, it looks like you have the improved Kohler engine.

Someone mentioned that in a different thread. I am glad to hear it. I recall something to do with the crankshaft seizing up when the tractor was operating on a slope (perhaps simulating a low-oil situation). The manual I have does not refer to my spec or my serial number but it is very close. That makes me think the manual fits the 1st gen K17.

 

[andrewgoingmailcom]

Hello all. I just performed a lapping for my valves. I believe an adjustment is necessary because I am lower than the 0.008 - 0.011 range for my intake and lower than 0.011 on one of my exhaust valves. The service manual instructs to grind the end of the valve to get the right clearance. I imagine it is quite important to grind them square, or perfectly perpendicular to the stem. Does anyone have a great valve grinding technique they can share?

 

[jdalchemist]

Yes, the valve stems need to be ground at a flat 90 degrees. Needless to say it is important to take small increments and check the gap each time. I set up a jig with an old KT17 valve guide clamped perpendicular to the side of an abrasive cut-off saw. The valve is rotated by hand as the stem is pushed through the guide to make gentle contact with the flat side of the cut-off blade.
Harold

 

[andrewgoingmailcom]

Yes, the valve stems need to be ground at a flat 90 degrees. Needless to say it is important to take small increments and check the gap each time. I set up a jig with an old KT17 valve guide clamped perpendicular to the side of an abrasive cut-off saw. The valve is rotated by hand as the stem is pushed through the guide to make gentle contact with the flat side of the cut-off blade. Harold

As an engineer, I love that procedure. I can totally appreciate how mistake-resistant it is!

 

[andrewgoingmailcom]

Yes, the valve stems need to be ground at a flat 90 degrees. Needless to say it is important to take small increments and check the gap each time. I set up a jig with an old KT17 valve guide clamped perpendicular to the side of an abrasive cut-off saw. The valve is rotated by hand as the stem is pushed through the guide to make gentle contact with the flat side of the cut-off blade.
Harold

I'm thinking this will work pretty well. Thank you so much for the idea!

 

[jdalchemist]

Sure, that set-up should work just fine.
Harold

 

[andrewgoingmailcom]

Got it! Start up video! Thanks everyone for your insight. I definitely couldn't have done this without you. I have my sights on a couple new project items:

1. High pitched whine presumably coming from the transmission pump
2. Fuel leak from carb
3. Creep

 

[DEERE317]

Depending on what the whine is it may just be normal. All heavy duty hydrostatics I’ve ran have had a decent quantity of whine, especially at slow speeds or under load.

 

[andrewgoingmailcom]

Depending on what the whine is it may just be normal. All heavy duty hydrostatics I’ve ran have had a decent quantity of whine, especially at slow speeds or under load.

I appreciate the feedback. Another buddy suggested the fluid may be low. Either one of those scenarios would suit me fine!