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My 317 quits running with mower engaged. Tried new battery. Will run all day without pto engaged. Thanks.
317 Quits running with mower
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9,574 Posts
Grant,
Does the engine stop the instant you turn on the PTO switch? If so, the most likely cause is the seat safety switch not sensing the presence of the operator. If your tractor is below SN 70,000 there is no safety switch...
If it takes a while for the tractor to stop running after the PTO is turned on and it seems to be from the battery getting discharged, then the PTO coil is likely internally shorted and drawing excessive current. Does the ammeter show a heavy discharge when the PTO is switched on?
Chuck
Does the engine stop the instant you turn on the PTO switch? If so, the most likely cause is the seat safety switch not sensing the presence of the operator. If your tractor is below SN 70,000 there is no safety switch...
If it takes a while for the tractor to stop running after the PTO is turned on and it seems to be from the battery getting discharged, then the PTO coil is likely internally shorted and drawing excessive current. Does the ammeter show a heavy discharge when the PTO is switched on?
Chuck
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3 Posts
Thanks Chuck. The engine does not stop the instant the pto is on. I haven't checked with an ammeter to see about the discharge. If the coil is internally shorting out does this mean I can spend more money for a new coil or can the old one likely be repaired? Again, I do appreciate the help.
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9,574 Posts
Grant,
I thought that all the 317 tractors came with a dash mounted ammeter, that is why I asked about an indicated discharge when the PTO was being used.
Measure the resistance of the coil you have now with an ohm meter-- it should be in the range of 3.5 to 4.7 ohms or so. If it is substantially less, it will draw too much current for the tractor charging system to keep up.
There is a thread in the FAQ on winding your own replacement coil for the PTO clutch.
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/96042/119087.html?1163258214
Chuck
I thought that all the 317 tractors came with a dash mounted ammeter, that is why I asked about an indicated discharge when the PTO was being used.
Measure the resistance of the coil you have now with an ohm meter-- it should be in the range of 3.5 to 4.7 ohms or so. If it is substantially less, it will draw too much current for the tractor charging system to keep up.
There is a thread in the FAQ on winding your own replacement coil for the PTO clutch.
http://www.wfmachines.com/discus/messages/96042/119087.html?1163258214
Chuck
Grant,
Did you get the problem solved? I had a similar problem a few years back on a 317. It boiled down to the engine just needing tuned up. I changed the points, set the timing and adjusted the carburetor. I think what was happening is that the engine was not developing enough power for the PTO. Don't know enough about your symptoms but it is worth considering.
Bob
Did you get the problem solved? I had a similar problem a few years back on a 317. It boiled down to the engine just needing tuned up. I changed the points, set the timing and adjusted the carburetor. I think what was happening is that the engine was not developing enough power for the PTO. Don't know enough about your symptoms but it is worth considering.
Bob
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Bob, Thanks for the help. Pretty sure it's the pto clutch. The tractor really does run great until you try to mow with it.
A quick test would be to unplug the PTO clutch and see what happens when the PTO switch is turned on. If the tractor keeps running then all is well with the safety interlocks and there is a problem with the clutch itself. Time to get a meter out and do some voltage and resistance checks.
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212 Posts
I've got a 445 with a minor (right now) leak at the hydro. Appears that it's coming from beneath a bolt on the hydro just above the spin on filter. I've tightened the bolts but still has some weeping from the bolt.
Anyone else experience a similar problem and if so, how did you go about fixing it short of complete disassembly and replacement of the underlying gasket?
Thanks...
Tom
Anyone else experience a similar problem and if so, how did you go about fixing it short of complete disassembly and replacement of the underlying gasket?
Thanks...
Tom
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400 Posts
I had a leak come from the park brake seal . The seal works it's way out over time and it will seep .
Removed fender pan and put new seal with some sealant on the outer portion of the seal to ensure it stays in.
I searched all over till I found where it was actually coming from
Removed fender pan and put new seal with some sealant on the outer portion of the seal to ensure it stays in.
I searched all over till I found where it was actually coming from
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