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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I bought a 317 with a blown motor and picked up a used motor out of another 317 last night. My question is what should a guy do to it to freshen it up? The past owner put a brand new engine in his 317 because he got it dirt cheap. He takes very good care of his machines and there wasn't any oil scum any where on the motor at all. This motor has been wrapped in plastic for about 9 years sitting in his garage. He said that when he removed it that it used a little oil but didn't smoke from what he can remember. I had to believe him because he looked about 85 years old and I know them old guys don't remember much any more. So should I just put rings in and hone the cylinders or should I put pistons rods and whole works in it.
 

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Seth, Memories can fade even with a person a lot younger. If that motor were mine, I'd at least pop the heads or even tear it down and have a machine shop check the bores. It would be easier now than later.
 

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I guess it depends on how much you want to spend. To do the rings you have to pull the jugs but to change the rods you have to split the case. Once you split the case you might as well do main bearings, governor gear, etc. I was going to rebuild the blown up series 2 that came with my 317 but could not afford the $600 for the parts. So I found a usable series 1, cleaned it up, changes a couple of gaskets and it works OK for my needs. I should of cleaned the carb before putting the engine in the tractor, went through a couple of summers with occasional problems then it really acted up this spring boy was it loaded with dirt.
 

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I would put it in and run it. I know people on the forums are maintenance freaks, but how do you know there is anything to maintain?
With that said, popping the heads wouldn't be the worst thing to do bc it could be rusted up inside. You could also spray some penetrating oil in there to loosen up any possible stuck rings.

FYI, just the gasket set for your KT17 is just short of $100. Add in your rings which IIRC only came with new pistons and you are in pretty deep "just to freshen it up."
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I think you have a good idea there Scooter I will just put the engine in and at least see how it runs before I do any thing. He said that he put oil in the jugs so there shouldn't be any rust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have a hoist so I don't think it will be to bad, I have did it before with out a hoist by myself and your right I learned a few new cuss words in the process. I won't get around to it for a couple weeks because of work, I will use this tractor for my cultivating tractor in my corn so I don't have to take the center blade off of my 140.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I put the engine in the other night and the old fart that sold me the engine is a liar. The engine smokes so bad that if the wind isn't in your favor it will choke you right off the tractor. He told me it uses oil but doesn't smoke so I thought then it probably doesn't use much then, I was wrong. So I don't know if I should rebuild this series 1 or if I should run this till it throws a rod and buy a new engine with a pressurize lube system.
 

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You never know. It may not have smoked X years ago. If it wasn't fogged (oiled) before storage the rings could easily be set buy now. My next guess would be to pour some Marvel down the spark plug holes. You could also pull the head.

If you are looking to rebuild it get ahold of me. I have a gasket set for you.
 

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OK--Just bought my first 455--a 1993 with 556 hours (I have been a 420/430 junkie for a long time). It has a 40 loader on it and a rear PTO/3 point. As far as "issues" with a 455, where do I start to head off any potential problems that I may encounter if I don't take preventive measures. Right now it runs and operates perfectly. I do not have any maintenance records from PO--I am the 3rd owner I am told. Appreciate all feedback.
 

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Change engine oil , tranny oil , and air filter . Change coolant , fuel filter . Clean battery cable connections also . Oil or grease 3 point hitch eye-balls . Shoot some grease in all zerk fittings . Hope for a long life . I also run Power-Service diesel fuel additive (silver bottle) as it provides extra lubricity for the cylinder and pump + has cetane boost .

Good luck :

Dave
 

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Richard,

There is a universal joint on the drive shaft at the transmission end. The universal does have a grease zerk that rarely gets greased because it is a P.I.T.A. to get at.

George of Buford
 

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Richard, best advice I can give is to just use it and take good care of it. Don't be tight with new air filters and oil changes especially. We use John Deere Plus 50 engine oil. Enjoy it. They're awesome.
 

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George,

Thanks for the info on the drive shaft zerk. Took the mower deck off to put the snow blower on, and while I had the front end jacked up I crawled under to look. Luckily the zerk was pointing down, so the job wasn't to bad. Would have never known that zerk was there.

Wayne
 

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George,
Where is the grease zerk you are talking about? Is this the one that is on the drive shaft to the mower deck or is there a second one hiding up in there. Mine is hibernating now for the winter but when it comes back out in 3 to 4 months I will be going over all of the service items for the next mowing season.
Thanks,
 

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Hi Richard,

I've had a 455 for about 10 years now. I purchased it used with about 600 hours and it now has 1100. The only failures I've had in that time was the alternator bearing seizing and the water pump leaking. Both were pretty minor repairs in my opinion, but I was a ASE certified auto mechanic while in college and have a well equipped shop.

As far as preventive maintenance, the other posters covered it well. I have three additions that I can think of. First, do not turn off the valve on the sediment bowl. It is a very poor pot metal and will disintegrate, resulting in your having to replace the assembly---I'm speaking from experience. Just let it drip in a pan while your cleaning the bowl/replacing the filter.

Second, when you have the opportunity to have the rear deck cover off, add large fender washers to the seat track bolts. In time, the deck sheet metal tends to tear around the seat track mounting holes. The fender washers should prevent this.

Third, if yours is all wheel steer, their is a rear pivot plate in the steering linkage. It pivots on a center mounted shaft and has a grease zerk. There is suppose to be a seal capping off the bottom of the shaft (covering the recessed nut). However, this seal usually gets blown out the first time the zerk is greased from the added grease. If so, you'll need to raise the rear of the tractor, clean the dirt, grass, and old grease from the pivot cavity with parts washing fluid, brush and compressed air. Install a replacement seal. Lower the tractor and place wood blocks from the floor up to the seal to hold it in place while greasing. You may have to raise the rear of the tractor to get the wood blocking under pivot seal and then lower it so the seal is held in while greasing.

You made a good choice!

Kurt Martin
 
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