I am betting on the starter being bad, and I am not a betting man!
Etek, I just wanted to add that yes, the clutch can put a drag on the engine if it is hung up. Although I think you have eliminated that in your case, I would still pay attention to it as it could be causing your clutch to overheat. As the hub/shaft wears it will at some point stop moving freely. Add a little corrosion and moisture, and it will stop sliding on the crankshaft. If this happens while the clutch is engaged, it will cause parts to drag as the disc isn't allowed to move away from the driven disc and coil. It will constantly rub causing excessive heat. And the pully itself will still spin freely when disengaged.Thanks Joe. The PTO pulley turns freely. Even if it where hung up on crank it isnt attached to anything so it shouldnt cuase the issue - should it?
Congratulations. I'm glad it wasn't something serious. Lesson learned? Always check what was done last.Thanks again Jetjoe. I wil start looking for a replacement. Of course as it is now starting
my new question is, when I reinstall the current PTO how much gap should try to start with? When all this occured I set it to .18. Right now, with the 4 adjusting bolts barely on the engine turns, starts and runs....but the pulley is locked against the mag. Should I tighten until the pulley runs freely, or just go with .18 again?
Yeeks Bob, I was thinking the same thing? Four bolts didn't register with me either but I thought I was misunderstanding him. If by some chance he had an Onan clutch on the Kohler engine, there must be adaptors involved. If so, that's where I would look. I've seen those shaft adaptors totally destroy a crankshaft.An .018 gap will be fine, either start with or finish with! Start at .018 and check in a couple of places around the clutch.
A question for ya, have you unbolted the magnet/coil from the engine block at any time during your diagnosis?
There is very little clearance between the ID of the rotor... the part that's keyed to the crank and fits over the coil. By placing 2 or 3 wraps on tape on the outside of the windings/coil, slipping the rotor on, and then tighten bolts holding windings to engine... slip rotor back, remove tape, and you're good.
Hmm, 4 bolts. Either you have ab Onan clutch or you've got the wrong bolts loosened. Do the nuts you're adjusting have a spring? Bob
You have to disassemble the clutch to get at those four bolts. Not that hard. Just the bolt on the crank, the four springs and it should slide off exposing the four bolts on the block.Thanks guys. Ill work on it again Wed/Thurs.
Here are photos of my set up. 4 bolts hold the unit to the engine and 4 adjusters. Same as the diagram provided by Bob. (The one sent by 8TEN had 3 bolts)
Hard to see in the photos but I put my driver on them to show how they are blocked largely by the field coil and will be a beeatch to remove. Have to remove exhaust then turn them a mm at a time! Guess I could pull the field coil off the crank snout as I go...
. View attachment 275249
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Jetjoe - whats holding that unit to the block? Looks like its located on the shaft only - hence the anti rotation pin I guess.
Your correct. Bad choice of words on my part. I was referring to how it should be at the time of installation.Just to clarify, rotor #4 is stationary on the crankshaft once everything is assembled. The rotor #4 inner bore is jammed between a shoulder on the crankshaft and bushing #6 (pressed into assembly #7), and held by bushing #13 and bolt #14. Clutch engagement occurs with movement of the spring-bound clutch plate within the #7 assembly. Once the four nuts #8 and the bolt #14 are removed, in principle everything including #4 should slide right off the crankshaft except the field coil #2 (held on by four bolts #3). Typically #4 is bound by by a little rust like Joe says, but the good news is that I have never had to use a drill or fire to remove the rotor.