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I like but don't trust electric clutches...they are REAL fun to deal with when a belt shreds in use and gets wrapped around the crankshaft behind the clutch. I wish manual PTO had been an option on all of our machines...
 

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I like but don't trust electric clutches...they are REAL fun to deal with when a belt shreds in use and gets wrapped around the crankshaft behind the clutch. I wish manual PTO had been an option on all of our machines...
The newer styles have really improved but I could see a shredding belt raising cane with any clutch. So far, I haven't had an issue with any of these but I am not one that always goes by the book either. I run the largest (1/2") belts and I never snug them up as tight as that tension indicator says it should be. Other than a recent purchase, I can't remember the last time I've had any issues with belts or clutches. Hear the knocking on wood? I don't have to blow snow any longer, hopefully, but I can see it as rough duty I don't have to deal with.
 

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This is a bit of a PSA, but worth saying all the same:

Only thing I’ll add is it was mentioned earlier to remove the plugs, stick your thumb over the hole and crank the engine to check for compression.

Never EVER do this!!!!!!

you may get away with it, or you may end up like a former coworker of mine (mechanic) who tried it in the shop one day.

He stuck his thumb over the spark plug hole and another guy cranked the engine over. Without plugs, the starter was able to spin the engine even faster than it normally could.

Next thing we knew there was a blood curdling scream from across the shop floor. What had happened was his thumb was pulled (blown?) into the spark plug hole when the piston dropped and it had peeled his thumb back, right down to the bone. EMT’s had a hell of a time getting him free and it involved a lot more screaming. He didn’t loose his whole thumb, but they eventually had to amputate from the last knuckle to the tip. He ended up with a “thumb stump” and it never worked right again. He also had a long, painful recovery.

I you need to check compression, use a compression gauge. NEVER stick your thumb over the spark plug hole and spin the engine over. It’s just not worth the risk.

It’s actually kind of amazing how much you can learn being around when other people hurt themselves. I learned a valuable lesson that day on someone else’s dime….
 

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I got a snowblower one time on a trade in that had a “blown motor “. The motor turned over very hard. They had brought the machine to a repair shop that told them the motor was gone and tried to sell them a new one. Well I took it on trade and had a look. When I pulled off the belt cover there was something that looked like a cat wrapped around the crank, all fuzz and big. Turned out to be a long piece of twisted rope. It took me over a half hour to cut it off it was wrapped to tight. Course after I got it off the snowblower started right up and I sold it soon after.
 

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I had a 140 H1 for awhile...but forget which deck it had. Was out mowing around my stockade fence that borders a belt of woods. Hit something that stopped the deck cold and the belt jumped off the clutch pulley and went behind the clutch...in against the crank/block. Talk about a BEAR to get off! Used every cutting blade I had in the garage. After that I swore off electric clutches...due to inexperience. The culprit? A Craftsman hammer half buried in the ground and covered by leaves, etc. That was just one of many discarded tools I found here and there around our property...seems the son of the house PO was very inquisitive and very extensive in his "how does this work?" adventures.
Never really got along with that 140, so I sold it and bought a 212...even though I had to road trip to Little Rock to get it. Gear drive, manual PTO...hog heaven for me. Then came a 430, then a 316, 317 and 322...they taught me get along with electric clutches.
 

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Nice! That old coil made quite a rats nest of it wire. Too bad there's not a Wankiest PTO Clutch thread to go with the Ugliest Seat thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
It was working great today (other than getting stuck in all the snow I havent blown..)...but only without the snout bolt, washer and sleeve (13,14,15 on diagram). When I install those it locks the pulley to the crank and I cant disengage the PTO. Without it all works fine. Any guesses?
 

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It was working great today (other than getting stuck in all the snow I havent blown..)...but only without the snout bolt, washer and sleeve (13,14,15 on diagram). When I install those it locks the pulley to the crank and I cant disengage the PTO. Without it all works fine. Any guesses?
Sounds like the sleeve may be too long. Measure the length of the sleeve and the length of the shaft (from the pulley to the end of the shaft).
 

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Jake... & Etek, I've gotta go the other direction, "something" is too short (or missing!). Just so we're not bouncing back & forth for diagram:
Motor vehicle Font Auto part Automotive design Art


Follow me thru on this! Bolt pushes on washer which pushes on spacer 13 which pushes on inner race of bearing which pushes on spacer 6 which pushes on armature 4 which pushes on shoulder on crankshaft...WHEW! The end result is that everything on the crankshaft is pulled tight/metal to metal against the shoulder on the crankshaft.

And for the hard part: WTF is wrong! My first thoughts are spacers 17 & 18 or not needed. Dismantle clutch & remove key 16. Get a marking pen and apply color to small diameter on 4 (where it fits around crank) and on the metal ring on coil windings (above & outside the red potting material on the windings). Slip 4 back on crank snout, without key, and push hard & rotate 4... you're trying to wipe the black marker off of ???. If marks are gone from end of 4, spacers 17 * 18 are probably OK. If marks are off of windings ring, spacers are too thick or not required.

Another possibility is that you set your clutch air cap WITHOUT bolt 14 being tight! You may want to reset gap with bolt 14 at least snug. Do some checking and report back. Bob
 
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Etek,
It seems there is something wrong with the installation or the pulley assembly bearing is locked up. It needs attention so there is no chance your new field coil is damaged. Remove the spring-loaded nuts and the pulley assembly and hub. Does the bearing rotate freely with respect to the pulley? If not, the bearing needs to be replaced. If the bearing is fine, are there any rub marks on the new field coil potting or on the field coil body? Remove the key and slip the hub over the mounted field coil. The hub should rotate freely, making contact only with the crankshaft shoulder and not with any part of the field coil. If there is any field coil contact with the hub, the field coil is not perfectly centered. Note in the diagram there are four alignment tabs (red arrow) on the back of the field coil that slip into the block in front of the 5/32" recessed crankshaft oil seal (if someone replaced the oil seal without recessing it, the field coil would not mount flat to the block and would be damaged). To center the hub on the field coil, loosen the four mounting bolts and tweak the position slightly until the hub makes no contact (alternately you can temporarily wrap some tape around the field coil to center things as Bob suggested earlier). Once you identify and correct the problem, reassemble everything, gap the clutch, and give it a try.
Harold
In edit: Bob and I were writing at the same time. He is correct that the two washers 17 and 18 are not needed on the standard KT17 engine. Bob's method for marking the hub is a very desirable way to insure that the hub and field coil make no contact.
Motor vehicle Font Rim Auto part Art
 
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