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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need a new column for my 318, and all I see on evil-bay are the 5-port columns, but I have a 4-port. If I cap the extra port, will the original lines still line up? Or if I convert it to a 5-port system, what will be needed to do it? I looked at the parts blow-ups on JD parts.com, but they really aren't too clear on the differences.
 

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Ray, I feel your pain as I am currently going though the same process of replacing my steering control valve which also uses a 4 port module.

The 4 port steering control valves were used on the earlier model 318s whereas the 5 port valves were used on the later models. As I understand it, hydraulic fluid for all systems flows from the transmission through the steering control value to the steering as well as to the front and rear connections. With the 4 port control valves, the system runs in "series" while with the later 5 port control valves, the system runs in "parallel". The valves are NOT interchangeable without some serious re-plumbing of your tractor's hydraulic lines. In my discussions with JD, they have a "work around" to re-plumb the lines (changing a 4 port to accept a 5 port) but it has not been officially blessed by the JD engineering department, so they will not even guarantee that it will function properly once completed.

Initially, I found and purchased a used 4 port steering control valve on ebay and had it installed on my 318 only to find out that it was a defective unit - between the part and the labor, I wasted over $500.

I then sourced the service manual from Parker Hydraulics (the manufacturers of the hydrostatic control valve) with the intent of having my original unit rebuilt. In correspondence with Parker, all the parts are still available, but unless you are familiar with rebuilding hydraulic cylinders, if is not a DIY job. I took my module to a hydraulic repair shop where the mechanic noted the parts that needed replacing - this came to about $450 plus labor.

Alternatively, I approached Parker again to see if they still made the four port valve (I figured it they still make the parts, then they might make the complete valve assembly). Success, yes, Parker still makes four port control valves, but 1) they are expensive, and 2) they are custom made so lead times are long.

Just today, I ordered a new four port steering control valve and column - cost $800, delivery 6-8 weeks. (By way of comparison, JD wanted $1200 for a new 5 port valve)

The part number which I ordered is: HGF10002A11400

You can find the part number of your steering control valve on the one of the sides of unit very close to the end where the port connections are. It may be hard to find it the module is dirty.(although it should be the same as the one above).

If you want a copy of the service manual, let me know and I will forward it to you.

Good Luck

Dan
 

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Jeff and Dan,

From looking at the hydraulic schematics in the TM1590, the four port and five port valves are very similar internally with the exception of the 'power beyond-like" Aux port, but the external plumbing of each version tractor is such that the steering and the hydraulic controls for the deck lift/front ports are in series with the 5-port and in parallel for the 4-port.



I would imagine that a 5-port valve with the Aux port capped would work in the 4-port tractor -- perhaps another member here has had success trying just that (both my 322 tractors are the later 5-port systems...)

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well, for what its worth, the seller on the auction site just to cap the Aux. port. But to me, the other outputs do not look like they are in the same orientation as the original. I think it might work, but then the lines will be all crossed-up at the base of the column.

I'm not going with a new unit, far, far too expensive for my budget! If I have to, I will rebuild mine. It works fine, but when I got the tractor it was waaaaay low on hydro fluid and had been sitting for quite some time. So I think the seals are just bad. It leaks, but does not pour out and I can't see exactly where its coming from. I checked the lines for tightness and they are ok. But I'm NOT looking forward to taking that contraption apart, I have the PDF manual and it looks quite compilcated and tedious to do. Not an easy fix!!!
 

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To rebuild my steering control valve, I needed many more parts than just new seals as the valves were worn out . Below is what I was looking at for parts:

SK 000097 Seal Kit $93.00
401443X1 Spring Kit $12.00
HGF 014001 Commutator Cover $58.00
HGF 014002 A1 Commutator & Commutator Ring Assembly $103.00
HGF107000 Rotor Assembly Set $157.00

I would also be looking at labor as I do not have the knowledge or tools to repair the module with confidence, thus I opted to purchase a new unit. Unfortunately, this is probably one of the most expensive repairs that this tractor can have.
 

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Dan,
I just replaced my 318 5 port power steering valve with a new one from my dealer. Cost of valve=$900.00, labor=extensive! BUT, I do believe that the next most expensive would be the three deck spindle assemblies with pulleys for a 46" deck, priced those at $200.00 each X 3. The bearings from dealer are $14.00 each X 6!

Richard
The Banjo Man
 

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Jeff, I put a new seal kit in mine 2 weeks ago and have had good luck so far. I wasn't looking forward to taking apart the steering valve and doing it myself but I didn't want to pay the dealer $68/hour to do it either. I bought the seal kit for $69 and proceeded to take apart the valve after reading the tech manual and the Parker manual. I had the valve apart and back together in about 3 hours. I took pictures every time I removed a stack from the valve and the internals of the stack and placed each one in a tray by itself. About the second stack into it the 3 springs pop out and I wondered what the he?? am I doing! I looked everything over as I went through it and I did not see anything that looked worn or that I thought needed replaced. I think the last seal in the bottom stack is the one that causes the oil leak up into the steering column, its too bad you have to go through the whole pump to replace it. But it is back in and operating for the time being with no leaks and I have power steering.
Wish me luck!
Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thats good to know Jerry. You give me confidence to do the job! I have the manual and it looks complicated, but now I think I can do it. I wonder if you could turn it upside down to get to that seal first instead of last?
 

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"out and I can't see exactly where its coming from. I checked the lines for tightness and they are ok."

Jeff, we had a 430 one time with a cracked fitting (on one of the lines)at the base of the steering valve. I would clean it up good first and make sure exactly where the leak is before I went too far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
ahhhhh...ok. I'll do that, but it looks like its not coming from the underside, but rather from one of the sides. And I couldn't see where the checkball was, so it might be coming from there too. I need to remove the pedestal sides to get a better look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
When dis-assembling the column and removing the shaft, do you just unbolt the column tube(part 37) from part 32 and then pull the shaft(part 33) out of the valve assembly? Do you need to get into the valve to remove the shaft?

 
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