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318 50" Mower deck # ??

2037 Views 18 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  woodpecker41
Hi trying to find out if a Powerflow setup is right for my 50" deck the guy gave me a number from his 50" deck which doesn't match up to the numbers on 2 of my 50" decks his# M00596x537059
my # M01013x if anyone can help it would be appreciated...Gary
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Hi trying to find out if a Powerflow setup is right for my 50" deck the guy gave me a number from his 50" deck which doesn't match up to the numbers on 2 of my 50" decks his# M00596x537059
my # M01013x if anyone can help it would be appreciated...Gary
So I was originally planning on repowering the 2000 345 I just picked up.The problem with it is that the oil pump gear shattered and the thing seized up. However, after tearing most the engine apart, and doing some searching on the interweb, me and my dad have decided to rebuild the FD611V. I have found all the parts and the overall price should be much cheaper than the repower anyway. I was only at $350 in parts including the tech manual. All that I would need on top of that would be pistons and machining if it needed to be bored.

I was wondering what things I should do since it is all apart. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
I will try to post pictures of the rebuild process when I get started on it.
I suppose I should add that the engine has almost 2100 hrs and it has never been rebuilt before. I have already accounted for the entire oiling parts, governor gear, push rods, complete gasket set, piston rings,pin and clip, crank bearing(only saw one in the parts diagram?)
Carefully measure top and bottom crank bearing surfaces . Some Kaws' do not even offer replacement bearings , even though they are sleeve inserts . Just saying .., make sure you are good there first . I had trashed top bearing (not spun) on a FH680V that should have been , but wasn't available from Kaw. , but had to custom make one from brass sleeve to match a ground .005" undersize journal . All worked out OK . The alternate through Kawasaki was a new crankcase half and crank . Ebay has a metal oil pump gear for the FD620H , but not sure if it fits the FD611V . Some parts do interchange along these two platforms .

Good luck .

Thanks David, I believe that SEPW can get all the parts I need. Of course that is for a std. size bearing. Right now I am trying to get the crank separated from the top case half. This is where the engine seized and i'm hoping can be salvaged
Erik, be sure to check the ring grooves of the pistons for excessive wear. I had to replace both pistons in an FD620D because the dealer put new rings on badly worn pistons shortly before I bought the tractor. That was the reason the PO put it up for sale. The rings did not seat properly, resulting in loss of compression & excessive oil consumption.

I used a feeler gauge between the ring & piston to measure the clearance (up & down). The old rings were worn .003 and the piston ring groove was worn almost .005 over spec. With the new rings, the clearance was still almost .008, the max (according to the service manual) is .006.

It didn't sound like much, but the engine starts & runs so much better now and it doesn't use any oil. Apparently it's a critical clearance....:)
I got the crank out of the top case. It got hot enough to weld the bearing to the crank. Tomorrow i'll clean whatever is left of the bearing off the crank and see if it can just be polished or needs to be ground.
My tech manual should be here tomorrow so i'll be able to start seeing what is in spec and what is not. Hopefully be ordering parts by the weekend.
Cleaned the top case

Whats left of the bearing

Parts of the aluminum bearing welded to crank

Rods hopefully just need a polish

The culprit
guess I cant figure out the picture thing. here is a link to photobucket.

I'll figure this out someday.

Crank with aluminum welded to it


rod that needs polishing


my mess


crank when stuck in case


the culprit

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You can use Muriatic acid to dissolve the aluminum thats stuck to the crank. The galled rod might need to be replaced.
Just got my tech manual and a new caliper so hopefully I can start checking everything is up to spec tomorrow when i go to work. Rods and journals are first on the list.
This project was put on the back burner for a bit, but i'm back to it now. I had disassembled the engine and cleaned every part. And ordered what I needed from Deere. I did have pics of the disassembly but my 2 year old got ahold of the camera and figured out how to delete pictures. I dont think I can even do that.
Anyhow, i started to put it together with a friend. I got the top crank bushing in then had alot of trouble getting the crank in. After alot of cursing, I took the crank out and saw I ruined the brand new bearing. So I took the two parts and brought them to Deere to put the crank in the top case.
Hope to pick it up in a day or two so I can get it back together.
Just finished rebuilding my FD590V, It took out the top bushing for some reason, pressed in a new one, test run on bench for one hour and no leaks, or any funny noises so putting it back in.If you need any help just message me and I will try to help if you need it.
Me and my friend just got the engine back together. Had to take it to a machine shop I know to machine the top bearing to make the crank fit. After I got the top case back, I put it together and when I torqued the two case halves together I couldnt spin the crank anymore. So...back to the machine shop and he shaved .000005in off each case half and it spins like new now.
Today my friend and I got the engine all together and it looks good.

Don, if you have any pics of the engine wire routing I would appreciate it. My major concern is the pulser coil wire. These pics I had were included in the ones my daughter deleted.
The igniter box has two white connectors one male one female the trigger coils go to one and the other goes to larger black connector that goes to main harness.
It's ALIVE. I just got the engine fired up today. Sounds really good. Mower now runs, drives and mows.
One small issue I have is that it will not stay running when I get off the seat. I have the parking break on but it still shuts down. Any thoughts?
The parking brake switch isn't working right. Roger
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