Hi Everyone; Just joined, seems to be a lot of knowledge here to draw on, so thanks for letting me in. I just purchased a used 318. Apart from some paint issues and the previous owners lack of cleaning the machine it doesn't look too bad. I brought her home, gave her a bath and now it won't turn over. I am going through the starting circuit checking things but cannot seem to see the brake safety switch. Can anyone tell me where to look for this? Any common problems leading to this situation? Thanks in advance,,,,,,,,,Mike
318 Brake switch location?
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So many unanswered questions need to be addressed.
Is the battery good? Connections?
Start at the power source (Battery) and work away from it....
BTW, Welcome to WFM
Is the battery good? Connections?
Start at the power source (Battery) and work away from it....
BTW, Welcome to WFM
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10,708 Posts
Mike as said welcome to WFM. Are you sitting in the seat when you try to start the tractor? That is required as is pushing the brake. If the PTO switch in the off position? Also required. You should be able to find where most of these things are by going to JDs parts site which is www.jdparts.com. This will let you look at the parts books. It is a free JD sponsored site you join and will help you a lot as you go through your 318. Roger
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6,867 Posts
Try pulling the hydro lever towards the steering wheel too, sometimes they dont always pull that little switch that tells the tractor its in neutral.
Only the later 318's had brake switches, so yours may or may not.
Could also be the seat switch, or tractor may need a starter improvement kit installed just due to age and corrosion.
Only the later 318's had brake switches, so yours may or may not.
Could also be the seat switch, or tractor may need a starter improvement kit installed just due to age and corrosion.
Sooo it ran ok before you washed it. Lets start with are you sitting in the seat? Pulling the neutral lever toward the steering wheel as suggested? If you got any of the wiring or switches wet of course that could very well be the problem. Try parking it out in the sun with the hood open for a while.
Release that lever underneath on the right rear near frame so when you push or pull it when moving you don't damage the hydrostat.
Release that lever underneath on the right rear near frame so when you push or pull it when moving you don't damage the hydrostat.
Hi Bill, She's been sitting in the sun since Saturday with the hood open, thought if it was water in something it would have dried out by now so I checked every switch I could find for continuity, cleaned the terminals and the wire terminals but still no work. I couldn't find a brake safety switch to check, so I'm wondering if it has one? Last thing to check besides that if it has one is to see if I'm getting power to the solenoid,if I can get at it,if is it part of the starter or is it a separate unit? I can barely even see the end of it because the frame is in the way. Any suggestions on how to access the starter solenoid if that's where it is?
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10,551 Posts
Mike,
Welcome to the WFM forums! Yes, earlier 318 tractors below SN 600,305 did NOT HAVE the parking brake switch. Here is the safety wiring that can keep the starter motor from cranking:
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Notice that you do NOT need to be in the seat to crank the starter (interesting how many folks believe that you do -- but the wiring diagram is pretty definitive...) However, the 20 amp fuse must be good (and the fuse holder can also be a source of intermittent connections -- particularly for the older glass tube type fuses...) The PTO switch(es) must be in the OFF position and the ground speed lever must be in the neutral/stop slot, and fully depressing the neutral switch.
On tractors of this age, the key switch may fail when exposed to water -- I find it a good plan to just replace a key switch if I think it is original to the tractor. Also check the socket connections at the key switch for corrosion or signs of heat damage and clean as needed.
Let us know what you find if you are still having issues getting it to crank... Using a voltmeter to measure at each point around the above loop starting at the fuse is a good way to isolate any failed connections or components.
Chuck
Welcome to the WFM forums! Yes, earlier 318 tractors below SN 600,305 did NOT HAVE the parking brake switch. Here is the safety wiring that can keep the starter motor from cranking:
Notice that you do NOT need to be in the seat to crank the starter (interesting how many folks believe that you do -- but the wiring diagram is pretty definitive...) However, the 20 amp fuse must be good (and the fuse holder can also be a source of intermittent connections -- particularly for the older glass tube type fuses...) The PTO switch(es) must be in the OFF position and the ground speed lever must be in the neutral/stop slot, and fully depressing the neutral switch.
On tractors of this age, the key switch may fail when exposed to water -- I find it a good plan to just replace a key switch if I think it is original to the tractor. Also check the socket connections at the key switch for corrosion or signs of heat damage and clean as needed.
Let us know what you find if you are still having issues getting it to crank... Using a voltmeter to measure at each point around the above loop starting at the fuse is a good way to isolate any failed connections or components.
Chuck
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10,551 Posts
Mike,
By the way your tractor is a 1988 model and should have the P218 engine with the solenoid on the starter itself.
It is a bit hard to access that area -- here is an illustration from the TM1590 service manual.
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I will send you some additional information by e-mail that is too large to post here.
Chuck
By the way your tractor is a 1988 model and should have the P218 engine with the solenoid on the starter itself.
It is a bit hard to access that area -- here is an illustration from the TM1590 service manual.
I will send you some additional information by e-mail that is too large to post here.
Chuck
Mike, you don't hear a click or anything? My key switch was bad, corroded and more. Water might have finished it off. They are about $20 at the JD dealer.
Best way to troubleshoot those areas you can't get too, insulated alligator leads or clips. One on the voltmeter black and to a good ground near the starter and the red one hooked to the terminal on the starter Marked "S". Turn the key on and you should have 12 volts, if not work your way backwards using Chucks diagram.
Using procedure 2d just proves the starter is good or bad. If it operates, you still need to find the issue on the control side.
Best way to troubleshoot those areas you can't get too, insulated alligator leads or clips. One on the voltmeter black and to a good ground near the starter and the red one hooked to the terminal on the starter Marked "S". Turn the key on and you should have 12 volts, if not work your way backwards using Chucks diagram.
Using procedure 2d just proves the starter is good or bad. If it operates, you still need to find the issue on the control side.
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