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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok fella's, the inevitable finally happened, the engine on my 92 318 finally gave up at slightly over 1500 hours. I'm currently trying to make a smart decision on how to proceed. The options as I understand them are to rebuild the existing P218 engine, but am told by my local mechanic that it'll end up costing me $3000.00 or more to do it. Re-power the machine, which when I price the engine and kit from Small Engine Warehouse, I'm looking at either $1550.00 for a 18hp Briggs, or $1775.00 for a 23hp Briggs. Or do I hold off and try to locate a low hour 318 for sale by owner? (which I've been watching for, for over 2 years and not found one at a decent price?)

Here's my questions:
1) Are Onan Short Block's no longer available or so expensive that they are not affordable? Haven't been able to find any.

2)If I repower the machine, how long can I expect the hydro pump and rear end to last in the tractor? What's the hour life expectancy on them? Would hate to stick the money in a new motor for an old worn out tractor. Although the engine would be new, the rest of the machine still has 1500 hours of wear.

3) Often times when I do see 318's listed for sale, they often indicate that the tractor was just repowered within the last year or so. Makes me wonder if they are running into some sort of problems with the tractor's operation or why else would they spend all that money to re-power the machine just to turn around and sell the thing after a year or so?

Any thoughts or wisdom you may feel lead to put here would be greatly appreciated. Currently mowing the grass with an old, real tired, 6hp 1965 wheel horse that just doesn't quite have the "Kahuna's" to do the job as I've become accustomed too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot to put this info in the other post. Was mowing and the tractor lost power, shut off the mower deck, ran the tractor back to the barn, got off to look at the engine (to see where the smoke was coming from and the engine stalled. Oil dripping from bottom of tractor (still not sure from what part of the engine) did a compression test, 60 some pounds on one side, nothing on the other. Pulled the head off the no pressure side, took out the piston and half of a connecting rod. Looked inside the cylinder and can see the crank shaft with NO other half of the connecting rod. Assuming that the other half grenade and is laying in the bottom of the oil pan somewhere.

 

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Meb,
Here is my 2cent answer. 318s have robust hydrostats and transaxles.They are worth repowering. I would not spend $3000 to repower a 318.I might spend $2000 to do it,but what I would more than likely do is expand my search to include 322s and 332s, which have Yanmar engines that last way longer than the Onans.
 

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Meb, good questions that I never thought about. I don't use my 318 much and if or when what happened to you happens to me I will probably rebuild assuming a good block. Everyone has there opinion on the rebuild/repower question with pros/cons to each. Will be following to see what others' opinions are to your questions I addition to Doug's reply. Thanks
 

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MEB,

Your profile lists you as having only the snow blade and deck as attachments for your 318 -- as pointed out above those will fit the Yanmar powered 322 and 332 tractors as well (and also the 420 and 430 tractors...) If you have other attachments that need front PTO power, that may preclude the 420/430 without some conversion effort.

The Onan is a somewhat pricey engine to have rebuilt, particularly if you have 'ventilated' the crankcase. Many who have done it themselves here feel it is well worth it, and have kept the cost below half of what your local mechanic quoted you. Repowers are also well discussed and documented on this site -- both from kits and from scratch.

I would look further into a rebuild if you are not in a hurry, but if you have only one tractor you may want a more immediate fix.

Chuck
 

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I vote to fix. It won't be $3000 unless someone else does it for you. FYI to all out there-if you have an issue-shut off that instant and don't even run it back to the shop-tow it there.

Had a D11 cat dozer that-he was just going to get to the bottom of the hill. $200,000 engine later and a hole in the side of the block and a D10 to pull it on the trailer-it was at the bottom of the hill.
 

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If its blown a hole in the crankcase its not going to be a cheap fix. Low compression on the other side. The engine was worn out before it threw the rod.

If it was mine I'd repower to a modern design overhead valve engine.
 

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Repower or rebuild I say. To replace that tractor at the dealer with a somewhat compatible model has to be around $6K, Or you could buy a piece of junk bone shaker for around $2K. Looks like a nice 318 you got there.
 

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Guys,

This thread's title is MEB's way of asking if the tractor is worth another engine -- be it a rebuild of the Onan or a modern repower. While there is a broad spectrum of preferences on these forums as to what that replacement engine might be -- what to do when the original engine gives out (or gets killed by running it out of oil as can happen well under the 'normal' expectancy of 1500 hours+) is the same... The underlying facts remain that the 318 tractor has a very robust driveline, is simple enough for most owners to maintain themselves and has plenty of parts available now and into the future; in short it is a "keeper." To replace the 318's capabilities of true Garden Tractor ground engaging functionality, power steering, range of available attachments, similar build quality, etc with something new is likely to run over $10,000, and Eric's hypothetically "somewhat" similar machine at $6k might a bit elusive as well...

So MEB -- you should plan on keeping this classic and capable tractor (it's your choice as to how to replace the engine...) and if your grass is growing too fast just use this opportunity to increase your herd with just a dedicated mower, or if you can find a good candidate perhaps a twin. You can have that 318 back in service well before the snow arrives...

Chuck
 

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I'm with Bill and Eric on this one ! …… I recently had the exact issue with mine … WE are the original owners of the 318 and IT WAS highly maintained thru it's Onan life ……
I Re-powered …. the 318 as stated above is a bullet proof tractor, 2nd to NOTHING out there …..

Meb you are going to have to be the judge on the overall picture of your tractors condition … if this tractor was a trouble free unit that has NOT 2-bitted you to death and has always provided great service to you, well, other than this unfortunate pre-mature failure that has been recorded over and over by hundreds of Onan owners all over North America !!! ….. Then Re-Power it !!! ….. I was NOT in doubt about mine of the other component issues with the 318, as those parts are still readily available and rebuildable Unlike the outdated obsolete Onans …… IF I could have when I walked into the Cummins/Onan or JD Dealer bought over the counter all of the parts needed (without hassle) I would have rebuilt mine, and would Not of had many many hours of net searching for solutions, until I came across this Site and found I was one of many ….

Cheaper is not better, in my opinion, to replace engine parts (that have been know to repeatedly fail) with more used parts just to save a few bucks is another disaster waiting to happen

As there Are/ Were Hundreds of guys that had Engine failure there are AS MANY that have re-powered these 318's and 420's with Huge satisfaction, as myself …… You are not alone on this one …. it was just your unfortunate Turn ….


Choose Wisely ! …… Our vote is the 318 is worth another Life with a Re-power !!! ……… Cheers …. GK
 

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there have been some with over 5000 hours on their yanmar tractors, so yes he rest is worth it to rebuild engine or repower

my 430 has over 2700 hours
 

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Unless you're really very lucky, Onan replacement engines and/or short blocks for that model of JD L&G tractor are hard to \ won't be found.
(All the parts for rebuilding the Onan engine are still available. If you can't do it on your own - yeah, bet a novice will charge a lot to do it for you.)

Read/see Boomer's post.

Read/see Chuck's posts.

Bobo
Good Luck
 

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MEB, I can see that you have a tool box in one of your pictures, and you were able to dismantle the onan engine as far as you did to find the problem.
I would think that you would be able to replace the parts in your onan yourself, if you have the time and it is something you would like to do.

They are not complicated at all for the homeowner to rebuild if you use WFM for any questions.

If you can find machine shop near you that will hone or bore the engine for you, and you get parts from reliable Boomer, then you could probably fix your engine to last for another 1500 hours, and the rest of the tractor will last much longer then that if maintained correctly.
If you didn't want to do those things then a repower would surely be the second best thing to do.
Also OnanParts.com has a movie or Smokestak.com., on rebuilding the Onans CORRECTLY, and would give you a good idea of what you would be getting into.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update, Well, while trying to make a decision on what to do on this, I've come across a 322 for sale at a dealer for $1850.00 with a little over 1800 hours on it. I'm going to go look at it this Saturday, but it looks pretty clean from the photo's. I've heard that you get allot more hours out of the Yanmar gas engine due to it being heavier made.

As far as rebuilding the 318 myself, that's not really a good option for me as a cure for my current situation as with work and what not, I don't have the time to work on a project that big right now, and the grass keeps a growing, and the old 6hp wheel horse is getting pretty tired. I'm thinking if I go with the 322, it can take the load of normal use, and then in spare time I could look into the project/adventure of a tear down and rebuild of the 318.

As I'm going to look at the 322 and have never had one, I don't know all the little things to look at/for when I look it over as I would with a 318. Any further words of advise before Saturday?
 

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MEB,

What year is the 322? Some had manual choke set-ups and most had electric. My two had electric with no issues but forum members that live in colder climates all say that the manual one is preferred.

Check the condition of the radiator and look for any signs of chronic overheating. Look at the alternator connection -- these often get melted from over-current when the battery and/or regulator should fail. Look at the radiator fins for blockages by debris, the screen immediately behind the radiator (up stream in the air flow...) and at the belly screen as these three checks for debris will say a lot about how the tractor was maintained. As with all open frame tractors, check for wear at the axle stops on the front axle and for steering play. If it is later model tractor with the parking brake switch ensure that the brakes have been kept adjusted such that the switch bracket is not bent or broken.

Lots of threads here on the 322 but the above is at least a start -- let us know if you have specific questions.

I think the 322 is THE premium tractor of the open frame 300 series -- smoother and quieter than all the rest. Not as fuel efficient as the 332, but just as capable and the engine is very robust and long lived. Ignition on these gas Yanmar engines is entirely solid state and has little in common with most other Deere models, and that makes the electrical systems on the 322 a bit more complex than the 332, but not overly so.

Here is a group picture of the 1988 and 1992 that I have had (still have the 1992 model...)


Let us know when you check out the 322 near you.

Chuck
 
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