ok got a question.when go up a small incline or turn tight to the left or right.the hydro slows down.when I move the hydro lever faster it picks up speed no problem.but then when i get on flat ground again it starts going to fast.I just changed the hydro fluid with low viscosity oil and new JD filter.and it still does it.anyone have this problem before??thanks
318 hydro slows on inclines
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Brad the same thing happen to me on my 420. Take your fender pan off and look at the rod coming out of the hydro that the linkage hooks up to, that might be slopped out and below your battery box there is another pin and bushing. Check them that is what was wrong with mine.
I've checked the linkage and its fine.did a pressure check on the hydro pump and its a little over what the book calls for should be between 850-975psi.I was almost 1000psi.its like I have to much flow??I think thats why when I mow my hydro lever is only about 1/2in to 1in up in foward from the neutral slot when I'm mowing.its seems to be quite a bit faster tractor than i ever had.now i looked in the service manual to troubleshoot.and it says there should be a welch plug in the bottom of the transmission where the big black hose hooks up.just below the oil filter.I have not check to see if one is in there.but the book says if one is not installed then it will get to much flow.now why wouldn't one be in there??I just changed the fluid and filter recently.so I don't want to dump 35.00 worth of hydro oil.I guess I'll have to drain it in a clean pan.I'm STUMPED!!!!
I discovered, when I installed a new power steering valve in my 318, that that particular situation went away. It's a possibility that with age and wear, the older steering valves start bypassing more fluid than it was designed too. With a new valve, and I assume with a 100% rebuilt valve, the pressures and flow are back to what they were originally.
It's an expensive R&R to do to find out if what I am experiencing is a fix for the problem that Brad and countless others are having. All I know is that I can set the throttle wide open, set the travel lever to any setting, take my hand off both and the tractor will continue uphill or sideways with no hesitation or decline in ground speed.
Just my experience, for what it's worth.
Richard
It's an expensive R&R to do to find out if what I am experiencing is a fix for the problem that Brad and countless others are having. All I know is that I can set the throttle wide open, set the travel lever to any setting, take my hand off both and the tractor will continue uphill or sideways with no hesitation or decline in ground speed.
Just my experience, for what it's worth.
Richard
thanks richard gosh don't tell me that.I did do a search and found other guys had this problem.and they would pull the lever for the mower while moving and the tractor would maintain speed then.now I didn't notice much of a difference while going foward but in reverse it definately did!! I went backwards up the hill in the side of yard it was going somewhat slow(same as foward)when I pulled the mowerdeck lever towards me and held it it picked up to the normal speed it would have on flat ground.now I do have a shut-off valve on the back rockshaft cyclinder for the blade.but its wide open.I don;t think this is the culprate.the other guys have replaced the pins and bushings in there linkage and the problem was gone.but gosh I didn't think mine had any noticable slop really.
what I just don't understand is why when going in reverse if i pull on either lever towards me it maintains better speed.I don't quite understand how that has an effect on the hydro linkage.what in the hydro pump maintains the speed??check valve??relief valve??thanks.i oordered the linkage parts.
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3,311 Posts
What you are doing is loading the pump, which in turn increases the governors influence on the engine, and in doing that, gives you a bit more power...
Hi guys, I ran across this site while searching for Kawasaki ignition issues. It looks like you have the experience and answers Im looking for...
Here is my deal.....My friend has this (2000) 425, with the carbed 20hp Kaw. He has been complaining about hard starting, and it dying on him while in use, he says if it dies, it will start right back up on go on its way for some time again, and then it will randomly dye again.
He explained to me, that when it dyes it is just like turning the key off.
I took some tools and testers over to his house to help him out, and found that it had no spark at first when I tried to start it. As I was cranking it and checking circuits and connections, it started trowing an occasional spark and eventually took off and ran fine. It would restart with no issues after it had been run.
After it sits, it will repeat this problem randomly.
I now have it at my shop, and have checked the resistant levels on the pulsers and the igniter box, they appear to be good?
I have seen several mentions of a TDM, which must be a JD add on, as my Kawasaki manual makes no mention of it.
I first hunch was the ingnition switch itself was lacking ignition connection in the start mode, but this morning I was able to test it under cranking with no spark and it was fine.
Thoughts? I am all ears....and thank you for your time.
Rick
Here is my deal.....My friend has this (2000) 425, with the carbed 20hp Kaw. He has been complaining about hard starting, and it dying on him while in use, he says if it dies, it will start right back up on go on its way for some time again, and then it will randomly dye again.
He explained to me, that when it dyes it is just like turning the key off.
I took some tools and testers over to his house to help him out, and found that it had no spark at first when I tried to start it. As I was cranking it and checking circuits and connections, it started trowing an occasional spark and eventually took off and ran fine. It would restart with no issues after it had been run.
After it sits, it will repeat this problem randomly.
I now have it at my shop, and have checked the resistant levels on the pulsers and the igniter box, they appear to be good?
I have seen several mentions of a TDM, which must be a JD add on, as my Kawasaki manual makes no mention of it.
I first hunch was the ingnition switch itself was lacking ignition connection in the start mode, but this morning I was able to test it under cranking with no spark and it was fine.
Thoughts? I am all ears....and thank you for your time.
Rick
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10,708 Posts
TDM which means time delay module is on the engine to prevent backfire when shutting a hot engine off. The do sometimes cause spark not to happen. Are you loosing spark on both coils. If so its not as ignitor which take the place of points in older engines. Ignitors do seem to be a heat related problem though. The complexity of the new tractor is much like new cars. If you work on them all the time they are not bad but to guess and throw expensive parts at them is sometimes not the best option. My 345 was showing similar problems and after I tried a bunch of tricks I knew and finally took it to the dealer. Turns out a fusible link in the electrical system was intermittently bad. I would never have found that. I have always had good luck asking my local dealers service people for suggestions and help and they have always helped to the best of their ability. You might try your dealership for help. Welcome to WFM. Roger
Hi Roger, thanks for the reply.
Yes, the spark is dead on both cylinders until it decides to spark, then it will get fire on both at the same time.
Fused links and bad connections can certainly be hard to diagnose, but this particular machine seems to be getting proper voltage to the coils and other circuits while the spark is still missing.
Rick
Yes, the spark is dead on both cylinders until it decides to spark, then it will get fire on both at the same time.
Fused links and bad connections can certainly be hard to diagnose, but this particular machine seems to be getting proper voltage to the coils and other circuits while the spark is still missing.
Rick
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1,663 Posts
Richard -
The time delay module is the cheapest thing you can replace in whole ignition system @ about 25 bucks , and gives the most logical thing to throw at it for elimination trouble-shooting . Many times , that does the trick ; judging from what I've read from others on here .
Dave
The time delay module is the cheapest thing you can replace in whole ignition system @ about 25 bucks , and gives the most logical thing to throw at it for elimination trouble-shooting . Many times , that does the trick ; judging from what I've read from others on here .
Dave
Thank you David, I did go ahead and pick up a TDM and installed it. The old one was a square block that bolted to a bracket and the new one is just a round cylinder, apparently they just want you to tie wrap it to the harness.
I did go through and clean, and re-crimped all the bullet connections.
I was hoping my local JD shop would have a (loaner igniter box)but they do not. I guess all I can do now is randomly try and start this over the next week or so. If it continues to fire right up, then I think we have it fixed!
I did go through and clean, and re-crimped all the bullet connections.
I was hoping my local JD shop would have a (loaner igniter box)but they do not. I guess all I can do now is randomly try and start this over the next week or so. If it continues to fire right up, then I think we have it fixed!
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