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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've bought a new hydrostatic dampner to replace the old worn one on my 1988 318. I have the version 3 linkage system and the side access panel on the tower. I easily removed the pin that holds the dampner at the top. But how in the world do I remove the dampner at its bottom attachment? I t looks like the shaft it's on at the bottom is fixed, and there's a plate towards the outside that blocks the dampner from being able to slide off. I don't see any way to get this joker off at the bottom.
 

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Just replaced mine today, there is a nut that you have take off. It has a spring that sandwiches two plastic friction disc against the hydraulic level plate. Once you have it off then whole hydro level will slide out, I had to use a pry bar behind the plate to get mine to slide out. The hydro level rotates on that pin which is visible when you have the screen off. Once out just far enough you can slide the old damper out and slide the new one in. Put the spring and nut back on tighten it done and you are good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Can someone please confirm that the dampner is supposed to stay fully extended except when there is force pulsing it in? Before I installed it, I pressed it in (shorter) by hand and it would not spring back out to full length on its on, I had to pull it back out to full length. I worked it in and out by hand several times and finally it started springing back out on its own. But then it immediately started sticking again. I worked it several times and sometimes it would spring back out on its own and sometimes it wouldn't.

It is supposed to spring back out on its own, right?

This part was brand new, but must be defective. I'll contact the place I purchased it for an exchange, but wanted to make sure i understood how it is supposed to operate.

By the way I've become an expert putting this part on and off trying to get it to work.

Oh, another question, is there an alternative dampner part number that would be better quality or have a stronger return action to it? This part is original equipment but doesn't seem very strong even when it worked right.

Thanks again.
 

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Mine would fully extend after I had compressed it, I bought mine new from Green Farm Parts. John Deere Gas Operated Cylinder AM133368. The one that I just installed took a lot of force to compress and would extend with a controlled release. It took so much force to compress it I had trouble getting the top pin in the hole once it was installed, I had to use a long screw driver to get the shock to compress so that I could guide the pin through the top hole.
 

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I am hoping to get a good look at my 318 this winter and am wondering where AM133368 part number is from? I do not see it on JD parts for any of the revs of the control linkage. My application is for serial # X0111xx. I thought based on the 1988 year you all were talking about it was the rev 3 like mine but looking at jd parts again I'm a bit confused. Maybe they changed from rev 2 to 4 mid year? 1988 475,001 - 595,000 Thanks
 

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littleJD, the only problem I really have is the bucking going from fwd to reverse and vice-versa. What was the problem that you had? I have never looked at mine to see if it has the optional damper control kit installed but doubt it does.
 

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Hi Guy's
Please excuse my Ignorance here, but what is the Purpose of this Hydro lever shock absorber ? is it to keep the Tractor's Hydro lever from advancing on it's Own while the Tractor is under motion ? Thank's to anyone that can shed some light on this. Regards, Kurt
 

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I thought that the purpose is to limit how quickly one can push the lever into fwd or reverse, so as to limit jerkiness and wear-n-tear on everything (including everyone) involved.

There is a separate friction plate that is intended to keep the lever in position while the tractor is in motion.

At least that's my understanding, which might be incomplete.
 

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Hello Brian
Thank's for the response here. I had some ground speed increase while mowing with my 318 so I Tightened the fricton Plate adjusting Nut you spoke of here, and it took care of my Problem as the Tractor seem's to travel at the same Ground speed on it's Own now. That was why I wondered why they use this shock absorber ? if it gas charged like I have Read it would seem to reason that the Gas charging of it would Place Pressure on the hydro level at all times here...Mine is not Jerky at all and now that I have Taken down the fricton plate nut Tighter it seem's to be holding it's own. maybe my shock absorber is fine and that is why I have not seen any other issues ? Kurt
 

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Kurt,
Interesting that your speed would increase. My guess would be worn linkages, since I can’t think of something that would pressure the lever to move higher.

I don’t have the layout memorized, but I think that the absorber is connected to a member that can compress, but not re-extend, the absorber. So I assume the absorber is spring-loaded (or gas-charged) so that it can re-extend itself.

I replaced my absorber this spring. I noticed that it limits how fast you can move the lever from neutral into fwd/rev, but does not limit how fast you can pull back into neutral. I also had to tighten my friction plate a lot to keep the lever in position against the absorber's spring/gas force. The friction plate was therefore so tight that once I finally pulled hard enough to bring the lever back to neutral it would abruptly snap home, which is a very jerky ride. So then I loosened up the friction plate enough that I could bring it to neutral without being too jerky, but now the lever slowly slides back to neutral if I don't hold it. So, it sure would be nice if the absorber didn’t need to be spring-loaded, but that seems to be the way they made it.

Given my poor results above, compounded by my worn hydro linkages and inexperience, you may quite likely find a better answer from someone else. Let me know if you have any suggestions for my difficult-to-please friction plate.
 

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Hello all, I have a '91 318 with the rev3 hydro control linkage. I'm interested in upgrading it to the rev4 system with parts from kit AM116222. I have tracked down detailed drawings for the three NLA parts (brackets), but need some help getting them fabricated. Would anyone be willing to point me to someone who would be willing to make them for me? I'd pay of course.

Thanks,

Andy
 

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Hey everyone, quick update on the hydro damper upgrade for my 318. I found a NOS AM116222 kit at Meridian Implement, but when it was delivered it had the old version of the gas cylinder which was broken (fluid leaked out).

This isn't all that surprising since the kit was in the original box and had probably been sitting on a shelf for 20 years. I sent it back and got the new cylinder. Here are some pics of the finished product.

The tractor operates much better now.



 
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