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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Every one I haven't been able to get on the web site for a while too many irons in the fire so to speak. But now that I can't cut the grass I have a little more time on my hands. Any how heres the problem: Starter went out on me 2 weeks ago. I bought a new starter and installed it(what a joy that was
) I also replaced the solenoid while I was at it. The tractor fires right up runs perfect however it wont move if I take it out of neutral it stalls the engine or if the PTO is engaged it will also stall the engine. I have checked all of the switches ignition, seat, neutral safety and the PTO switch all switches were new a few months ago so they have been ruled out as my problem. I followed the procedures for checking my electrical system according to TM1590 every thing checks out good. I am led to believe it may be the TDC any input would be helpful.

UPDATE: I got to reading a couple of posts here about jumping the PTO so I unplugged the connectors and put a jumper wire across the connections and the PTO worked. I the did the same to the neutral safety switch, and the tractor will now move. Is this an indication that the PTO and the neural switch are bad and not the TDC?

TIA,
-Bob
 

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Bob,

Sounds like the F2 fuse is not supplying voltage to the seat switch. It should be a 2 or 3 amp fuse depending upon the year of your 318. Note that the engine will run if the tractor is in neutral even if the small fuse is not present...but will not run if the PTO is engaged or the hydro is moved out of neutral unless the operator is present (seat switch closed) and sensed by the TDCM. Sensing the seat switch condition requires the power through the F2 fuse.


Chuck
 

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Bob,

Check for +12 volts at pin 9 of X22 (the #810 pink wire) when the seat is occupied. You can put a weight in the seat if you don't have a helper for this test. If there is voltage there, it might be the TDCM.

Chuck
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Chuck,

I checked for 12 volts at pin 9 of X22 and I get 12 volts. What you are saying is The TDCM could be bad? Even though I was able to operate the PTO and also the neutral switch with jumper wires. Dosen't every thing still operate through the TDCM? Or by using jumper wires I am bypassing the TDCM altogether?
-Bob-
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK ... I'm getting really frustrated at this 318. I get home from work this evening, go out to start this freaking beast and do more testing and now when I turn the key to the run position it tries to start, no dash lights nothing but the engine cranking over and freaking over ARGH!!! I thought the switch may have been bad so I put a brand new one in and the same old BS. Anyone want a 318? CHEAP!!
 

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Sounds like you got some wires crossed-up somewhere.You need to verify that EVERY wire is going to where its supposed to go, including the regulator and coil wires on the engine. Make sure you have good solid grounds too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jeff I have been having a problem. I was trying to figure out if my TDCM may have given up the ghost. The tractor would start fine. It would try to stall out if moved into gear or turning on the PTO. I was trying to figure that out when this started. I think the TDCM is my problem. but I'm not sure trying to get some other input.Yesterday the run position was just that now it turns the engine over I can't figure this out.
 

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Bob,

Sounds like your ignition switch may be toast -- they do wear out after several decades. It might also have been part of your original starting difficulties, particularly if the solenoid would click but not switch the high current to the starter motor to crank the engine.

You will note that the circuit for the seat switch switch, the TDCM and nearly everything else is powered through the ignition switch, so it is key both figuratively and literally


A new switch should be in the $20 range, and is easy to replace. Just check the mating connector for signs of overheating and/or corrosion, and correct any issues you find there.

Chuck
 

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Bob,

Which switch did you replace, the PTO or ignition? I wonder if your PTO switch is acting up.

If you are willing to hold on to it, I'll drop by during the winter and trade your 318 for a 6-pack 1996 National Champs Florida Gators Coke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Tim,
HA HA HA LMAO thats a good one sad part was I actually thought about it for a quick second!! I am going to try to work on it some tonight if it doesn't rain again because my garage (closet) is to small to work on any thing inside so I am at natures mercy. Tim I replaced the ignition switch back last winter when I restored it and put another new ignition switch in last night.

Chuck,If you look at my previous post #51 I had already tried that sorry my post did not say ignition switch my bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK... heres what I have found.I disconnected the purple wire from the ignition switch so it would not energize the solenoid. I then turned the key to the start position and the spade where the purple wire connects was energized which it should not be until the ignition switch is moved to the start position. I also noticed that there was no click from the TDCM. Under normal operating conditions once the key was turned to the run position A click from the relay in the TDCM could be heard and I would then have dash lights IE..battery & the oil light, I would then move the switch to the start position and the engine would fire right up. now I have nothing no click no dash lights nothing. I had purchased another ignition switch thinking it may be the problem however the new switch does the exact same thing I believe that the TDCM is the culprit. I am going to purchase a new one and see what happens. I don't think these are repairable or are they?
 

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Bob, Are you sure you have the terminals connected correctly on the switch. Looking at the schematic it looks like even if the S2 terminal is hot coming from tdcm (pur and pur/blk wires, then S1 would only be hot if switch is turned to start position. In other words even if battery is directly connected to S2, S1 would only be hot if switch is turned to start position. I think a wire is on wrong on switch. My guess though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Still no luck with my 318 everybody seems to think its either this switch or I have wires crossed somewhere. Could someone pleas confirm for me where these wires should plug onto this switch Red/Green, Red/Pink, purple/purple black, and single purple. Thanks in advance (Sorry about the blurry pic I took it in a hurry)
-Bob-
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks Andy!!! That thread just confirmed I am a dumb#^^
. Chuck you are the man!!I feel so stupid I don't know where to begin. Andy you were exactly right. I had two connections wrong on the switch. (I gotta get my eyes checked all those wires look like the same color to me.) Color Blind. Thanks again to everybody who gave their input. Someday I hope to be able to help someone on here instead of asking for help all the time!!

PS Tim keep your 6 pack of 1996 Gator National Championship coke on ice, we will drink them together when you get back down here to FL

-Bob-
 

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Bob,

Glad to hear you got the 318 going again.

You will have the honor of drinking the first one, I want to see the expressions on your face, from a distant anyway!


I know certain things taste better aged, but I'm not sure about Coke.
 

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Bob,

Real happy to hear you are running again. Sorry I was out of state for a while and did not get back on the switch issues, but other members here certainly have been down this path before as well (thanks Andy for the link to the thread where this was discussed earlier...)

I don't have any comments on the Florida Gator team discussions for Tim and Bob -- all my Gators are Deere products (or Deere licensed toys!)




Chuck
 
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