My 318 stalled last night after cutting grass for about an hour. Would not restart showing 12+ volts at battery. No response when I turn ignition key, no lights come on dash. Installed a starter improvement kit this winter and new air filter and plugs yesterday. I have had problems starting it lately. Any ideas? I will be removing battery and checking the breaker and looking for loose connections. Thanks
318 no start
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Richard,
The breaker and its connections are likely culprits in a "no power anywhere" symptom, as would be the key switch itself and the connections that plug into it. Did you renew the key switch and inspect those connections when you installed the starter improvement kit?
You also do not mention the year of your 318, but if it has the older style glass fuses with the plastic tubular holders they too are of questionable reliability -- many WFM members have upgraded to the later tab style fuses and holders/sockets.
Let us know what you find and if you have more questions...
Chuck
The breaker and its connections are likely culprits in a "no power anywhere" symptom, as would be the key switch itself and the connections that plug into it. Did you renew the key switch and inspect those connections when you installed the starter improvement kit?
You also do not mention the year of your 318, but if it has the older style glass fuses with the plastic tubular holders they too are of questionable reliability -- many WFM members have upgraded to the later tab style fuses and holders/sockets.
Let us know what you find and if you have more questions...
Chuck
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5,085 Posts
also scrape the battery terminals with a knife, you cant see lead corrosion
The breaker has continuity through it. Checked the ignition switch and have now replaced it as the terminals were rusty. Still no reaction to turn of the key. It does have the glass tube fuses which are both good. Battery was new this winter and I now have it on a charger bit it looks good. What's next?
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Richard,
The glass type fuses have a history of having unreliable holders -- try wiggling them to see of there is any variation in the tractor's behavior. Many members here have upgraded to the later style tab type automotive fuses and holders...
Also, if the key switch was noticeably rusted/corroded at the terminals, how did the plug that mates with those terminals look? Poor contacts can cause overheating which in turn causes a loss of spring tension on the sockets. Make sure they are clean and grip tight.
Good luck, and let us know what you find.
Chuck
The glass type fuses have a history of having unreliable holders -- try wiggling them to see of there is any variation in the tractor's behavior. Many members here have upgraded to the later style tab type automotive fuses and holders...
Also, if the key switch was noticeably rusted/corroded at the terminals, how did the plug that mates with those terminals look? Poor contacts can cause overheating which in turn causes a loss of spring tension on the sockets. Make sure they are clean and grip tight.
Good luck, and let us know what you find.
Chuck
Do you have the wiring schematic for a 318? If the whole system is dark, I am guessing a loose ground. I would recommend checking these first, then taking a test light, and following the circuitry. This helps check both the wires and the switches, at the same time.
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1,001 Posts
Hello Richard
As Chuck has mentioned here the tube style fuse holder's can over time give some contact issues. I still have them on my 1983 John Deere 318 as the outer plastic fuse holder's were fine, but what I did was took them apart and stretched the internal Tension spring to make the fuse contact more solid in them then used some Di-Electric grease on them to ensure a nice solid electrical connection. I did not want to cut my wiring harness apart to add the blade style fuses so this was my wy of revamping what I had, I hope it help's, Kurt
As Chuck has mentioned here the tube style fuse holder's can over time give some contact issues. I still have them on my 1983 John Deere 318 as the outer plastic fuse holder's were fine, but what I did was took them apart and stretched the internal Tension spring to make the fuse contact more solid in them then used some Di-Electric grease on them to ensure a nice solid electrical connection. I did not want to cut my wiring harness apart to add the blade style fuses so this was my wy of revamping what I had, I hope it help's, Kurt
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Kurt,
That is a very valid rework of the tube fuse holders if the plastic is not brittle and the springs and contacts are not corroded. Thanks for posting this useful tip! Dielectric grease is always a good idea as well...
Sounds like your fuse holders have not spent any time in the sun -- or the rain.
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Chuck
That is a very valid rework of the tube fuse holders if the plastic is not brittle and the springs and contacts are not corroded. Thanks for posting this useful tip! Dielectric grease is always a good idea as well...
Sounds like your fuse holders have not spent any time in the sun -- or the rain.
Chuck
Got it running several weeks ago, it was the glass fuse holder, replaced with spade type fuse holder. Found by wiggling wires with ignition switch on. Thanks for everyone's help! I also found some other issues with the wiring: bare wire on primary leads to coil, and melted terminal protectors on voltage regulator leads from a voltage regulator melt down several years ago. Does Deere offer new wiring harnesses? Unfortunately I have been out of town a lot recently for work, right now sitting in a hotel room 5 hours from home.
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Hello Richard
I am Glad you located the Gremlin's keeping your Onan from starting. There is No Fool proof fuse holder on these John Deere 316's or the 318's. They are }Constantly subjected to Moisture and vibration over a period of time & the flat spade style later used wiring harness fuse holder's can Fail as well. I know this as I had one fail in my Son in law's 1992 John Deere 316 Build that I located and Built for him this early spring time, and that Tractor only had 349.4 Hour's on it's original hour meter when I bought it, so Higher Hour's on a John Deere 316 or 318 Tractor does not always mean fuse troubles. I hope this help's, Kurt
I am Glad you located the Gremlin's keeping your Onan from starting. There is No Fool proof fuse holder on these John Deere 316's or the 318's. They are }Constantly subjected to Moisture and vibration over a period of time & the flat spade style later used wiring harness fuse holder's can Fail as well. I know this as I had one fail in my Son in law's 1992 John Deere 316 Build that I located and Built for him this early spring time, and that Tractor only had 349.4 Hour's on it's original hour meter when I bought it, so Higher Hour's on a John Deere 316 or 318 Tractor does not always mean fuse troubles. I hope this help's, Kurt
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