[gene_cunningham]

I have a early 318 w/B43G and it stopped charging this morning. I have done the following:

Checked grounds and fuses OK

Checked to make sure charge light goes out when battery reaches 13V ( used battery charger to get battery up.

Checked and had 28-30 VAC at regulator input but only reading battery voltage at the voltage regulator.

I'm pretty sure I've got a bad voltage regulator but am looking for input for other things to check before I try and get a new regulator.

Anybody got any suggestions on other things to check before ordering new parts.

Thanks
Gene

 

[knottyrope]

sounds like a bad regulator to me

 

[gzec]

I just went through this with a b48g. Must be similar. If I put a volt meter on the battery with WOT, the volt meter would only read, 12.5. It should read 14. something. It was suggested to me to disconnect the front pto to be sure it wasn't drawing too much current from the system first.

 

[gene_cunningham]

Thanks for the input guys. The front PTO is not turned on so I don't think it could be drawing any current at all.

Is there anyway to test a VR with a meter?

Thanks

 

[KB]

Thinking outloud, shouldn't the dc wire be at 14v +/- in relation to ground/negative ?

 

[gene_cunningham]

kb

That's what I thought. When I measure the voltage at the pin on the regulator, with the engine running, it appears to only battery voltage ( 12.3 or so) . When I rev up the motor, the voltage does not go up to the 13 - 14 volt range that should be the charge voltage.

I disconnected the VR wires and measured the AC with it running and it was in the range specified in the tech manual ( 28 -30 VAC ).

I guess this pretty much points to the VR as being bad. I just hate to spend $50-60 on a new one just to find out I should have checked something else or worse, tested the system wrong.

 

[gene_cunningham]

I just went out and tested it again. With the two black wires going to the AC connections disconnected from the VR and connected to a meter , I measured the AC voltage range from a low of 15VAC at low idle to 35VAC at almost full throttle .

I reconnected the VR , started the motor, the voltage at the battery went from 12.4 before starting down to 11.7 with the it RUNNING.... the faster it ran, the lower the battery voltage...

Just wondering if this is a valid test for this type of VR ???? I tried to find a good test procedure in the Tech man, but they kind of wander around and can be tough to follow some times...

Gene

 

[gzec]

I tested the battery with the volt meter while running. It was 12.4 at WOT. After the new rectifier it went to 14.3. My rectifier was $18

 

[gene_cunningham]

I just went out and put a charger on the battery and noticed it went to 14.5V. It appears that even though my battery was good enough to start it may be week or under charged.

Does anyone know if a weak battery could cause the "NO Charge " problem I am having?

Just a thought. Once I get the battery up , I'm going to check the system again and see if the problem still exists....

Gene

 

[chuckv]

Gene,

From your findings so far there it is almost certain that you need to replace the regulator. The ignition system on the Onan is a battery powered one so the longer it runs the more charge it takes from the battery if it is not being replenished from the stator/regulator should either fail.

Your AC readings point directly to the regulator itself. Glen, where did you get your regulator? I see them on E-Bay for about $21 and bought one at NAPA some time ago for around $30...

Chuck

 

[gene_cunningham]

Chuck,

Thanks for your input. Sounds like I need to get a regulator for sure.

Onan parts wants over $50 for a replacement and boomer said he has good ones for $27 plus shipping.

You said you had got one from NAPA . Do you remember if they had them in stock and if so, how did you get a part number for it.... There is a NAPA store in town so if I could get one there, I could get back to moving firewood....

Thanks
Gene

 

[chuckv]

Gene,

Here is the Napa part number 7-01699 and a link:
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Voltage-Regulator/_/R-SME701699_0215387658

Chuck

 

[gene_cunningham]

Thanks Chuck

I checked out the link and it's more than the one from Onan...

I think I'll just order one from Boomer and take a few days off waiting for it.... Beats working...

Thanks for all the reply's . Will update when I get it installed... good or bad...

Gene

 

[gzec]

Mine was evay $17 free shipping. Was here in like two days.

 

[mrtinker]

$61.99 at my 60002 zip Napa. No thanks.

 

[gene_cunningham]

Rich,

That's the same as here in the west. It looked a little steep to me also. I got one coming from boomer that should be here today. Will post after I get it installed.

 

[wmgeorge]

BTW most retailers like NAPA and other automotive or parts places, will give you a discount IF you ask. Tell them you are in the lawn mower business. They don't care what the reason just something to justify the discount.

 

[hankvc]

Glen, I think Chuck has already gone over your diagnosis. If you've got around 30V AC at from the stator coil, around 1 ohm resistance across the two stator leads, and the coil is not shorted to ground, it's OK. Voltage at the VR output terminal should be the same at at the battery plus terminal. If you don't get a voltage increase at the VR output terminal when you start the engine and rev it up, the VR is not working.

Local NAPA price looks like $68 and change. I had to replace mine some years ago, and think I bought it from a Cummins dealer, for about that price.

I'm very wary about cheap parts from epay and other places. Recently had to replace the starter motor on a Kohler CV13, which is a Kohler part. Had about 20 hits on a web search for starters at $50-$75. From Kohler, the motor is more like $175. Some careful snooping told me that the under $100 motors were all Asian wannabes, that wouldn't work properly or would fail "real soon now." That includes a "genuine Kohler" part from Amazon---very clear from the feedback that the motors weren't genuine and were problems. I ended up getting a JD rebuilt for $125, and it works reliably.

I need to spend more time running my machines and less time fixing them, and paying $50 more for a reliable part is definitely worth it to keep my machines available for use.

Hank

 

[gene_cunningham]

Bill,

I do get a bit of a discount from NAPA on the web listed prices, but it a whole lot...

Hank,

I agree with you on the cheap parts from epay and the like. Especially when dealing with electrical parts . I just got a used " tested " regulator from boomer ( thanks again for the quick ship ) and it was half that price .

I just got it installed and am now getting over 14v at the battery when running and no more low battery indicator light.... I'm back to hauling wood.....

Thanks to all for you input. It made the decision to spring for new parts easier ...

Thanks
Gene

 

[jpkluewer]

I ordered an off brand one off ebay last summer for like 23 shipped and it works fine...if it goes out I'll buy another one...3 for the price of a napa one