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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have a 318 with a small amount of play in the "front" end of the power steering cylinder (the end that attaches to the steering arm on the left side of the front axle). I looked at JDParts and they don't show any repair parts for that connection. I'm familiar with how this swivel joint operates, and I'm wondering if anyone has had this part of the cylinder apart, and has found a source for possible repair parts. Right now the play is no problem, and I'm keeping it greased. But the cylinder is in good shape (except for this swivel end), and I'd like to try to nurse it along as much as I can. If no repair is possible, how about cutting the end off and threading the shaft for a "heim joint" from mcmaster carr? Also, McMaster has a "seal for ball joint ends" listed. Anyone try these?
Thanks in advance, Steve
 

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At about $400.00 dollars for a new one and you don't really need a new cylinder, I think that a solution to the swivel end should be your focus. I like your ideal to thread the end of the cylinder rod. I just don't have the tools to do it myself.
 

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The trick is to do it right, remember if welding to keep the shaft cool close to the cylinder so you do not harm the seals inside of it, small deep penetrating welds over time, no rushing to get it done. Otherwise it will be $$$.00 outlay.
 

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I replaced them on my 420. Just purchased two Cat 0 ends off of eBay. Drilled and tapped them for grease zerks. Cut old ones off and welded new ones on. Pretty simple and cheap fix.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all the replies. WOW Andre, I guess you did have a serious problem! Thanks for the Danuser link, and the welding idea. I have a friend who is a good welder, he could handle that no problem. Now I know what I'll do when the time comes. Thanks again- Steve
 

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I have the same issue on the 318 pretty badly. One fix I have come across, but not tried myself, is to tighten up the existing assembly. Basically folks have successfully made a through cut in the outer housing, forced the kerf closed in a vice and welded the housing along the outside of the kerf. Probably not " new" condition but a pretty easy way to gain a little more time.
 

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Now you have three possible solutions. How to make a decision? I know what one I like best.
 

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Here's mine with zerks. Originally the rear does not have a zerk. It's tends to wear worse due to no lubrication.


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The Danuser ends, like Andre used, are what I have used. They don't come with grease zerks, but it's not hard to drill and tap them.
 

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The zerks are a good solution for a better lubrication but the external ring of those ball joint are thin and narrow.
Stock they are fragile and with the hole for the zerk they become even more fragile then I prefer to use white spray grease for them.
When the original broke on mine it was at few inches to have an accident and destroy my swimming pool.
Just my opinion.
Andre
 

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Minisub,
Very good idea for your's but for mine the timing was perfect.
I was ready to order the ball joint and pins for a 3 pt hitch project.
I add one more joint on the shopping list.
Andre
 

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John Deere 318 - Onan B43G
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I had a serious problem with mine...
View attachment 74185

To fix it I used those ball joint for 3 pt. hitch cat. 0.
5870 Ball Joint Assembly | Danuser
View attachment 74193

I put more weld around at both end to spread the load around it like a standard ball joint...
View attachment 74201
View attachment 74209
Andre
Hi, looks like some serious and long welds, did you have any problem with heat from the weld hurting the cylinder components? I'm thinking of doing the same. Extending the cylinder all the way and wrapping a wet towel around it??
I had a serious problem with mine...
View attachment 74185

To fix it I used those ball joint for 3 pt. hitch cat. 0.
5870 Ball Joint Assembly | Danuser
View attachment 74193

I put more weld around at both end to spread the load around it like a standard ball joint...
View attachment 74201
View attachment 74209
Andre
Hi - how did you mitigate the heat hurting the cylinder? I'm thinking of wrapping a wet towel around it. And extending it all the way.
 

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Extend cylinder with a wet rag is the best way if you intend to weld. You might even use a little water dripping on the cloth at the end of the rod near the seal to keep the rag and rod cool.

As mentioned you can do little by little welds to keep the heat down to a minimum. If you plan to build up material on the ball end, then may I suggest doing the material build up on that prior to tacking and welding it to the cylinder rod.
 
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John Deere 318 - Onan B43G
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Extend cylinder with a wet rag is the best way if you intend to weld. You might even use a little water dripping on the cloth at the end of the rod near the seal to keep the rag and rod cool.

As mentioned you can do little by little welds to keep the heat down to a minimum. If you plan to build up material on the ball end, then may I suggest doing the material build up on that prior to tacking and welding it to the cylinder rod.
Thanks for the tips!
 

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Some if not most of these rod ends have Oilite or brass raceways. That is the hardened steel piece where the bolt travels through is very hard and the outer material where the ball swivels is brass or Oilite. (Pre-impregnated brass with oil)

This type of joint usually operates in dirty dusty environments and adding grease zerk's can be detrimental as it attracts a lot of dirt. Always keep in mind these machines are over thirty years old and have lasted a very long time. Somethings just don't need to be improved upon. And yes, drilling would further weaken the housing.
 
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