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Matt,
Have you checked the price of main bearings and the cost of a driver or machine shop labor? Like Charms says, if the main bearings are worn beyond tolerance, there is likely so much wear elsewhere in the engine that a rebuild is beyond cost effective. Measure the bearings before arbitrarily removing them!
The crank journals, rod ends, pistons, and cylinders need to be measured as well.
Harold
 
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Discussion Starter #104
I'm proud owner of some measuring equipment. Now measuring equipment in my price range is from harbor freight.
 

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Keep up the good work Matt ... Gabby
 
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Discussion Starter #109
What else for sure to measure. So far nothing alarming. I'm finding cylinder 3.245. Thanks
 

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Matt,
So far, so good with the measurements. How are the main bearing id's? The cylinder bore should be measured at several points to evaluate taper and out-of-roundness. The crankshaft rod journals are probably OK, but should be measured. The connecting rod crankshaft id's should be measured at several points, as the rod cap is frequently stretched out of spec at one corner. An often overlooked wear point on the pistons is the top ring groove, which for the old-style pistons should have a maximum width of 0.087". Good luck.
Harold
 

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Discussion Starter #112
So crankshaft bearing removal and installation is it going to take the special tool? No other way to effectively do it? Talking needs to go to machine shop?
 

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No clue for your technical questions but glad you got it (both that would be a pain to deal with and someone else would probably cut her up for scrap.)
 

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For measuring the piston ring groove width, feeler gauges can be stacked together. Alternately, you can mic a ring thickness and then check the ring side clearance with a feeler gauge, adding the two measurements together. Driving out the cam or crank bearings is not big deal once you find the right size piece of pipe (maybe a muffler pipe adapter). Installing the soft, fragile bearings with proper alignment of oil holes is pretty tricky. The bearing will be distorted if driven or pressed with much force. Installation is best done with a proper "driver" after chilling the bearing and driver on dry ice. I would recommend installation by a machinist, as you will likely need other machine shop work like having valves faced and valve seats cut.
Harold
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Sounds good. I have ordered a ball hone and have asked a friend who used to work at Deere to help me with cross hatching cylinders and valve work. I'm going to try to remove crank bearing I already removed cam bearings. Installation of bearings to be determined. Can't remember do both cam bearings have oil holes as well that need proper alignment?
 

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Matt,
That is a seal and bearing race driver set. A sleeve bearing driver will have a straight section that fits snuggly (maybe only a few thousands clearance) in the bearing, and then a stepped up section that makes contact with the bearing end. The cam bearing on the PTO end does not have an oil alignment hole, but may have one or more holes such as the points push rod hole for use on a B series engine.
Harold
 

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Discussion Starter #118
So a plastic flyball spacer is always a good idea to replace when your this far? $60 or so for metal one. Just curious what you guys think. The plastic ones often fail? Thanks
 

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Matt,
Yes, the plastic flyball spacer very often starts slipping on the camshaft, first giving a surge and over-speed when the engine is hot and eventually no governor control. At the risk of causing you more unexpected work and expense, my advice is to always address the potential plastic flyball spacer issue during a rebuild or anytime the engine is opened. There are three options: (1) the press fit/cemented steel spacer you mention; (2) replacement with a plastic spacer from an engine built after about 1992 having an extra tab; (3) adding a tab that locks the flyball spacer to the notch in the housing. Other members have made a plastic tab as seen in this link: p218 over reving. My solution is to fabricate an aluminum tab that is screwed in place as seen in this second link: onan p218g flyball spacer.
Harold
 
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Discussion Starter #120
Time to get back on this project. I have recieved my order from Boomer, including steel flyball spacer. Going to get good clean on block and flyball spacer installed and go from there. I'll need help along the way! Thanks in advance. Matt.
 
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