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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in the process of converting my 318 from B43G Engine with external Starter Solenoid to a P218G Engine with Solenoid attached to the starter. On the P218G the starter solenoid extends below the engine mounts & interferes with the lower mount plate that the engine mounts too. I might have two choices to rectify this problem one might be to raise the engine on the compartment mounts or, cut an access in the lower mount plate of the tractor where the engine attaches to. It looks like the lessor of two evils would be to cut the access for the solenoid in the lower plate & use the existing mounts.
Hopefully someone will have run across this situation before & have the solution that I'm looking for.
Thanks
Wayne}
 

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Wayne, I'm not sure about the "B" engine but the "P" engine bolts directly down on the frame. Both of your options are do-able. If it were me I'd try raising the engine up first, before I'd cut the frame.
 

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Wayne,You have 2 options.1 is use the oil pan and starter from the "B" engine on the "P" engine.
2 is to cut the side of the frame. The "P" style tractors have it cut out. I would not suggest raising the engine,
it would cause to many other problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Guys for the info.
After reading your post Mark I cut out the area on the frame under where the starter solenoid fit.
Positioned the Engine in & after a little cleaning up of the cut out area the P engine fits great with clearance, between the solenoid & the frame.
Currently, ready for paint of the engine compartment cut out area, hopefully will get this engine running later this week then, let the snow fly!
Thanks Again
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Has anyone out there gone through this Engine modification process from the P43G to The P218G what, additional modifications that had to be made to complete the mod?
Thanks
Wayne
 

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Joes right on the drive shafts being different
when I did my 318 w the B43G to a linemar 220 replacement I needed to use the supplied spacer, only problem was a LOT of vibration ended up buying a new drive shaft.That corrected the vibes but emptied my wallet of 150 bucks. I've still got the spacer if ya need one $5 + shipping
 

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265 is not firing. I have gone through the test procedures in the TM and everything is normal until I get to the coil. The resistance from the base of the coil to the plug wire should be no higher than 16.3 k ohms and mine is 16.48 k ohms. I disconnected the white ground wire from the coil which should eliminate any issues in the wiring harness or other components and still have no spark. Also tried 3 different plugs. The only thing that puzzles me is that it mysteriously broke down while sitting since late summer. Looking for opinions or thoughts.
 

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Roger, it is a Kawasaki 17hp. Are you referring to the ignition module? The white wire from the ign relay goes to the ign module and then to the coil is grounded with the key in the "off" position. When I disconnect that wire from the coil, I would think the coil would have no choice but to fire if it was good. Am I thinking wrong? As for the price, I work at a dealership so I can get it at net.
 

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It is a very small square box that usually bolts to the engine. Ask one of the techs they will know what I am talking about. Never worked on a 165 so I am not sure what JD calls it or its exact placement. I will try to find the part number on JD Parts. Roger
 

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That's the ign module. I'll look in the TM to see how to test it. I was the parts mgr for 20 yrs and have been the service mgr for 5 yrs and you may not believe it since I'm asking questions here, but I work on more mowers than my techs. Trouble is we are 99.5% ag and .5% l&g. We work on very few mowers. Thanks for the advice.
 

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Billy from JD parts it is part number M73484 which has been replaced by AM131398 and is called ignition trigger module. On the parts page it is item number 7 electrical coil and if you go to the right side of the parts page it is called ignitor which is what Kawasaki calls it. My dealership has 3 in stock which means to me it is a common failure part and is a bit under $85. Roger
 

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I had noticed in your earlier post that you mentioned a 165 and I thought you might have made a typo. I'm working on a 265 which does not use a trigger coil. The 265 uses an ign module which is connected to the ground wire between the ign relay and the ign coil. I'm going to have to read up and see what the purpose of the module is because I really don't know. Thanks, Billy
 
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