Dan Hosler : ….. Nice pics ! ….. as it Appears from your pics, the Kohlers Crank Case is slightly different where the bolts are screwed in to retain the clutch … we have to shim up, only where the bolts go thru, BUT not for (again what appears in your pics) to compensate the for the raised casting of the larger Lip where your crank-seal is ….. as in your installation, I like your idea of using the studs, and using thinner machined down larger faced nuts …. We used a couple of washers, with one side ground off to create a flat sided edge, because of a dual bolt pattern they have close together …. the washers are mainly to level off to NOT BEND the rear clutch plate …… the only other reason I can see you would have to add a 1/4" spacer is due to a rear flange on your Collar to compensate for the overall smaller diam. size of the Vanguards crank-shaft (again, appearance only) …..
On the Kohlers the Main Diameter of the Crank-shaft is larger than the we need for our Ogura clutch's @ 1-7/16" and they turn down the outer diameter of the Crank PTO to either 1-1/8" or 1-7/16" (as mine is)
Dan Dillner : Your detailed cross section (in your tutorial) was a great help when I did my re-power, it helped me understand what the heck was going on ……
Actually it was not very difficult to figure out the spacing difference of shimming/spacing between the P218 and the Kohler, all I had to do was to determine WHERE the Crank Shoulder was in relation to the true faced mounting holes on the crank-case ….. A handfull of washers, a GOOD steel straight edge and a digital vernier caliper ….
Once I got started it only took 20 mins to accomplish the task ….. NOW I have it documented and will save a TON of time for the next one I do (Hopefully that will be a future 420….LOL) or for anyone here that wants the specs, Unfortunately I don't have a simple re-sizer to post pics here, but can/will e-mail them. ……… GK