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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, great forum. I bought a 1990 318 (p218) 2 weeks ago. After reading the forums I installed the starter improvement kit to improve starting. The battery light was coming on so I performed the tests from the forum on the stator and regulator and it looked like the regulator was bad. I replaced the regulator and it started right up. After running for a couple of minutes I engaged the pto while monitoring the center lug on the regulator. The motor promptly died. I disengaged the pto and it started right up and shortly dies. The DC voltage goes to zero just before it dies it seems. Any ideas?
Andy
 

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Hi all you savey guys out there, i have a 316 onan that dies right after i start the pto (maybe a minute or two). It starts right up and than dies again. I notice that the ignition also dies out at the dashboard (battery,oil,and pto), and that there was a clicking sound coming from the circuit breaker by the soleniod and that the red wire coming in to it was very hot, i follow it to the middle wire at the regulater so i replace the regulater, worked good for one mow job and now it's doing it again. I notice also that if I turn off the ignition to the off position, the clicking sound to innergize the soleniod remains off and on until I disconnect the battery cable. The tractor runs great so long as I don't plug the middle wire at the regulater except it won't carge the battery. Any advice out there? Thanks, Manny.
 

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Andy , this sounds silly but have your battery checked for a bad cell in it. If I remember right the electric PTO clutch takes a certain amount of energy from the battery if it doesn't have the energy then the clutch won't work possibly causing the motor to die. Just an idea , but it's where i'd start.
There is also a brain box on your tractor called a TDM i believe. Time delay module, that could be the issue also. Check all wiring connections and the battery first.
Keith
 

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Manual , I'm an amature but here goes. If a wire is getting hot , check for proper wiring , and that connections are secure and clean.with the tractor , and the pto , just shutting off when it feels like it, kinda also sounds like the TDM , like Andy's. the center wire coming out of your regulator is electricity generated by the stator , I believe 318's have them. If the wire is hot look at and or check your circuit breaker, and solenoid, they could be the culprit. I hope you didnt harm your new regulator either. welcome to the site , this place is awesome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks Keith for the information. I will check the battery and connections. I'll look on here to see if anyone has posted on how to check the TDM. It does sound like my problem is very similar to Manny's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If I leave the center connection off of the regulator the tractor will stay running. If I leave it on it will die in a minute or 2. If there was an issue with the seat switch (which is bypassed) or the TDCM, wouldn't it shutdown whether the regulator wire was connected or not?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have 43vac across the stator leads disconnected from the regulator/rectifier. When I reconnect them to the regulator/rectifier but leave the middle lead disconnected from the regulator I have -2.3 vdc on the middle terminal. Does the regulator middle terminal have to be connected to the wire to test it? Is my regulator/rectifier fried? I just got it the other day.
 

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Thanks Keith, I'll check the wires and the soleniod before i take apart the slator. I have an extra slator that i can put on but i am hoping i don't have to replace that, i also have an extra circuit breaker that i tried on but it still does the same thing so that eleminates possibility. manny.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I took the battery to the auto parts store and had it load tested. It is fine. I replaced the battery cable ends because they were a little corroded. Still have the shutdown issue. The regulator must be charging because when monitoring the voltage on the regulator middle terminal while running, the voltage climbs from 12 to 14 volts. When it gets to 14 volts the tractor sputters and shuts down. I know the circuit breaker is opening but since I don't have an amprobe big enough to handle 25 amps I can't check if it's bad or if it's really pulling more than 25 amps. The wires don't seem like they are melting so I guess I'll replace the breaker and see what happens. Any ideas?
 

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Andy,

Measure the resistance of the coil on your PTO -- it should be about 3.5 to 4.7 ohms. If it is quite a bit less, then the extra current draw at the higher voltage when the battery gets fully charged might just be enough to trip the breaker.

Chuck
 

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Andy,

Sorry I missed the bit about it doing this with the PTO not engaged as well -- just did a careful re-read of your first post in this thread. No, the PTO would not be a factor when it is off. Neither would the ignition disable delay from the TDCM be a factor if the PTO is not engaged, so your thought to replace the breaker is a good place to check next.

Chuck
 

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Hello, this is Manny again, so far I change the regulator, the circuit breaker, the wiring harness and the TDCM box and it is still doing the same thing. I got a spare slator, that's my next move unless somebody saves me the trouble, which i would appreciate very much because i don't really wanted to that. If i come up with sulution I'll make sure to post it right away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Manny, it sounds like you have about the same problem as me. I noticed the fuses (F1 and F2) are 30 amp fuses instead on 20 and 3. I think the guy that sold me this tractor wasn't able to fix it so he put oversize fuses in it. I am going to get the right size fuses in it and start from there. I'm also going to try to locate a dc clamp on ammeter to help troubleshoot. It will be a week before I'm able to work on this though. Good luck on getting yours fixed.
 

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Andy, today i worked on my 318 all morning to no avail, i change the ignition switch, pto switch and the nutrual switch. I guess i am not going to escape changing the slator, i really didn't want to pull that engine but i need to eliminate that possibillity I do have one extra and who knows, maybe that is the problem. I'll keep you posted Andy.
 

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Andy,today i finally changed the stator (no easy job, that motor is heavy) got rit of the proublem with the shuting off and the clicking sound at the circuit breaker. The stator did have a short on one of the wires, it got cut by one of the tin guards and was shorting out the regulator shuting off the engine. The Pto is now burning the 20 amp fuse when i turn it on. i need to explore this proublem now, any suggestion what might be causeing this? anybody.
 

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Andy,
This might sound to simple but check the connections at your circuit breaker. My 318 was shutting off after it ran for a short time and it turned out to be bad connections at the breaker. The breaker has threaded lugs and the wire ends are push-on type, because of the added resistance due to the poor connections the breaker would trip.

Before I cleaned up the connections, like you if I disconnected the center wire from the regulator it would run fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Brad, I took apart the 25 amp breaker and cleaned it and put it back together with all connections clean and tight. But, maybe the breaker is opening before 25 amp is going through it. It's just a spring that gets hot and moves off a post when 25 amp is flowing through it. I just don't have a way to test the amount of current flow. I think I'll buy a dc current probe off of ebay to test it. But, since someone has replaced the 20 amp and 3 amp fuses with 30 amp I suspect something else is involved.
Manny, at least you are narrowing down your problem. Obviously the 20 amp fuse is drawing more current than it should. Have you checked the pto winding for shorts and adjusted the gap on the clutch.?
 
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