Hi Jerry, as you said you have to pull the battery out of the way. After pulling that you could check continuity of circuit breaker with an ohm meter assuming you have access to one. If not I would just rig up a test light using a flashlight battery and a lamp. If you do decide to use the 318 battery as a source, please use a fused lead just in case it contacts something while poking around.
The tech manual says to sit battery on air cleaner cover and re-route the negative terminal to reach... and then check for voltage on each side of circuit breaker. It is pretty heavy and unwieldy, my choice would be to get it out of your way.
One thing to remember is the circuit breakers are pretty reliable... but the terminals are very unreliable. There is a good chance that the crummy push on connectors at the circuit breaker are your problem. You probably want to look those over come spring assuming you get patched together for now.
But back to where we are now, do you have the tubular fuses or tab type? First measure for 12V on each side of the 20A fuse. I would guess you will not have 12V (key in run position)
The next step (assuming above) if you can get to it would be to check if you have power to the key switch from the circuit breaker. The manual looks like this is the upper right terminal if you were sitting on the snowblower looking back at seat.
Jerry, I guess after writing all this, if I had snow piling up, I would try wriggling my hand down to the circuit breaker area and see if I could wiggle those terminals and maybe you get lucky and just have a loose connection there. Not sure whether they are reachable without moving battery but I would try.
Don't sweat any interlock safety switches for now as if you don't have any dash lights, you have a more fundamental problem