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1990 John Deere 318/ (Serial Number 600305-)
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,
This is my first post so bear with me please. I'm finally doing it, revamping my 1990? 318. The starter was hit or miss and getting worse every day. I trouble shot the electrical system and sure enough it was the starter. I found a new(remanufactured) one after much research. I was not wanting to try one of the new ones everyone on the internet seems to be trying to sell. Anyway, I found the ring gear looks(in my opinion) rough. I'd like to get some opinions and advice about replacing it.
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I have removed several ring gears intact by slowly heating it by going round and round with a torch so it warms up without overheating any one spot. Once it's warm it taps off with a punch and hammer. But yes, the ring gears are one sided, beveled on one side.
 

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1990 John Deere 318/ (Serial Number 600305-)
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hey thanks for the feedback guys. I guess there's no need to be careful taking it off if it's not usable! I just need to find a new one. Looks like onanparts has one for $99+ shipping. Does anyone know of a better deal?
 

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Stick with Onanparts, you are getting genuine Onan then. So fit and quality are there
 

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While you have the engine out and flywheel off, I suggest you give the block a good cleaning. As it is air cooled, cleaning the 30+ years of dust, oil, grass etc. off the block and cooling fins and even the stator will help keep it all running cool. If you have never replaced the electronic ignition module, it’s worth doing it now. It’s going to be extra money spent but they don’t last forever and the hardest part of the repair is pulling the engine out of the tractor and pulling off the flywheel - and you’ve already done that.

The module is the black device with wires coming from it. When you remove it, remember not to lose the isolator gasket behind it. You need to reuse the isolator. Also look at the white trigger ring and note the writing explaining which way it needs to face. Always change the electronic module and trigger ring at the same time.

When you reassemble, make sure to put all the engine tins back in place. They channel cooling air around the block. Purchase a gasket that goes between the oil filter housing and the tins if your engine no longer has one. It keeps cooling air from escaping around the oil filter and channels the cooling air past the cylinder head.
 

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1990 John Deere 318/ (Serial Number 600305-)
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I watched video of the flyball procedure and it didn't seem too difficult, but finding a replacement that doesn't break the bank is another matter. Anybody know where I might find a used one more in line with my price range ;)
 

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Replacing the flyball governor is a good maintenance item as was pointed out and you are correct, it is not that difficult once you have the engine at the point you have it. Contact Boomer at Boomers Onan Parts. He’s in Minnesota and can sell you everything you need. There was a post here a month ago showing photos and listing Boomers contact info. I did not bookmark it but it should be easy to search for or just Google “Boomer’s Onan Parts”
 

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1990 John Deere 318/ (Serial Number 600305-)
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
My starter arrived today. Physically, it is an exact match. Time will tell if the remanufactured was a good move. No core charge and south of $100.
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1990 John Deere 318/ (Serial Number 600305-)
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The previous owner must have broken the stud off of the starter hot lug. There is a self tapping screw that was holding the positive cable.
 

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1990 John Deere 318/ (Serial Number 600305-)
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I'm hoping that's the case, Chuck. I first started having problems after tightening that screw just a hair because the terminal was a bit loose. Now when I check resistance, I get a short to ground. If I back the screw off a hair, no short to ground. It's interesting to see some of the underlying causes for malfunctions.
 
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